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[Roger2561]

Hello all, I need input and opinions.  After reading some of the posts about OWB's leaks, it appears that the weak link in the OWB's is the weld seams.  Instead of waiting for failure to happen due to corrosion from creosote, etc... in the seams, why not take a more preemptive approach and cover them over with a compound of some type?  My co-worker thought that jet coating on just the seams would protect them from the corrosion but allow for maximum heat transfer, thus, the OWB lasting a bit longer.  What are your thoughts on this?  Is the problem of seam failure just not as bad as I seem to think they it is?  Am I being paranoid over nothing?  Thanks, Roger

[fryedaddy]

What coatings would hold up to the chemicals used?

[Scott7m]

Having something that would be inside the firebox where things can be corrosive is key.

I sell a product that coats the steel, you actually burn it in powder form.  No it is not lime!  No it is not ashtrol, it produces a chemical that coats the steel, it makes it to where creosote does not want to stick to the walls or tubes, and what does stick, simply falls off upon contact.

Martyinmi has been using some I sent him for about a month, he said each week things are continuing to improve as far as dryness of firebox and the ease of cleaning the tubes in his portage and main optimizer.  The product isn't cheap, but a 20 pound tub should last you 1-2 years.  However, if its coating the steel and making it easier to clean, that should also result in a longer life of the boiler, so in reality it is a really cheap insurance for your stove that also makes maintaining the system easier.

[WMSmoke]

I was told by my Boiler manufacturer that I should clean the inside of the firebox at the end of the heating season and coat the firebox with kerosene with a pump sprayer. He says this will pickle the metal and it will add longevity to the firebox.

[Roger2561]

Having something that would be inside the firebox where things can be corrosive is key.

I sell a product that coats the steel, you actually burn it in powder form.  No it is not lime!  No it is not ashtrol, it produces a chemical that coats the steel, it makes it to where creosote does not want to stick to the walls or tubes, and what does stick, simply falls off upon contact.

Martyinmi has been using some I sent him for about a month, he said each week things are continuing to improve as far as dryness of firebox and the ease of cleaning the tubes in his portage and main optimizer.  The product isn't cheap, but a 20 pound tub should last you 1-2 years.  However, if its coating the steel and making it easier to clean, that should also result in a longer life of the boiler, so in reality it is a really cheap insurance for your stove that also makes maintaining the system easier.

Scott, does this compound in anyway hinder the transfer of heat through the steel?  That's my only concern. 

Thanks for the info.  Roger

[Scott7m]

Having something that would be inside the firebox where things can be corrosive is key.

I sell a product that coats the steel, you actually burn it in powder form.  No it is not lime!  No it is not ashtrol, it produces a chemical that coats the steel, it makes it to where creosote does not want to stick to the walls or tubes, and what does stick, simply falls off upon contact.

Martyinmi has been using some I sent him for about a month, he said each week things are continuing to improve as far as dryness of firebox and the ease of cleaning the tubes in his portage and main optimizer.  The product isn't cheap, but a 20 pound tub should last you 1-2 years.  However, if its coating the steel and making it easier to clean, that should also result in a longer life of the boiler, so in reality it is a really cheap insurance for your stove that also makes maintaining the system easier.

Scott, does this compound in anyway hinder the transfer of heat through the steel?  That's my only concern. 

Thanks for the info.  Roger

No, it increases efificency because everything stays so much cleaner.  Creosote and the fly ash insulate, this product helps to make everything dryer and harder for it to stick, making heat transfer better

[whiteyford1]

Hello all, I need input and opinions.  After reading some of the posts about OWB's leaks, it appears that the weak link in the OWB's is the weld seams.  Instead of waiting for failure to happen due to corrosion from creosote, etc... in the seams, why not take a more preemptive approach and cover them over with a compound of some type?  My co-worker thought that jet coating on just the seams would protect them from the corrosion but allow for maximum heat transfer, thus, the OWB lasting a bit longer.  What are your thoughts on this?  Is the problem of seam failure just not as bad as I seem to think they it is?  Am I being paranoid over nothing?  Thanks, Roger

Hey Rodger
My opinion is it is likely some additives will help make your box cleaner but unlikely to cost/effect longevity.  Its not poor welding or cold acid forming areas that cause the deterioration. The wrong coating will accelerate decay. There are four possible solutions;  a carbide box, but it's not cost effective. Aluminum coatings may help but would diminish heat tranfer, disposable fire boxes,, ugg, or option 4. Sorry you"ll have to wait on that one, see my other post "Leaks".

My opinion is most of these leave the factory with an expiration date hidden somewhere in the fire box. Wire, brush, scrape, what ever makes you sleep well, but its time and money I won't spend.
Randy

[johnybcold]

Scott send me some info on the product, being a pine burner I am sure my box is dirtier then most, if I start using it in a dirty box does it build a layer over the creosote? Would I need to get it wicked clean then start using it?
Thx

[Scott7m]

That was one concern I had with martyinmi when he started using it, his stove was already dirty, but every week he has seen an improvement.  My reccomendations would be to have a big cardboard fire to get out all the creosote you can and then start using the product. 

We all know creosote is corrosive, so if we can help get rid of it and keep the firebox dryer and cleaner it should benefit in efficiency and longevity.  I'm not sure it will eliminate it, but will definitely reduce it and make it much easier to remove.

[johnybcold]

I would like to try it, anything to keep my unit cleaner then Rodger

[martyinmi]

Just wanted to let you all know that three of us here in mid Michigan are using the ProFormer with much better than expected results.
Prior to using the ProFormer we made up special tools to clean our vertical heat exchange tubes, as the creosote lining was so hard that the brushes would not remove it.
After using the product for about a month now I don't have any issues at all with cleaning the heat exchange tubes. The brushes for the vertical tubes just about fall through on their own from the weight of the rod and brush. For those of you out there with the 250's, you know what a pain they can be. The horizontal tubes also are getting cleaner with each week that passes.
It normally takes me about 15 minutes weekly to clean my boiler. This stuff knocks off about 5 minutes each week.

I'm waiting on a return call from an engineer from ProFab to verify whether or not the ProFormer will also somehow "condition" the ashes and make them less corrosive. Maybe Scott could jump in and comment on that.

Depending on how much Scott (or whoever your local dealer is) might charge you for the ProFormer, it should only cost about 60 bucks/year to use it. Maybe a little more or less depending on where it's shipped to.  20 pounds should last around 2 years for a unit my size.

Thanks for letting me be your guinea pig Scott!

[Yooper]

Just curious:

If you own a stove made of stainless like a Hardy or Heatmor will you still have all these weld problems?  Stainless is often used because it does not corrode.  I've read some stuff that the heat transfer isn't as good, but if it holds up with no hassles it may be a decent tradeoff. 

What is the ProFormer?  I looked on ProFabs website for a bit and didn't see this product mentioned.

[Scott7m]

Just curious:

If you own a stove made of stainless like a Hardy or Heatmor will you still have all these weld problems?  Stainless is often used because it does not corrode.  I've read some stuff that the heat transfer isn't as good, but if it holds up with no hassles it may be a decent tradeoff. 

What is the ProFormer?  I looked on ProFabs website for a bit and didn't see this product mentioned.

Profabs website is the biggest joke I've ever seen.  Only person that could understand that mess is the guy who designed it lol

But proformer is just a powder, you put a scoop of it in with each fill, it burns and coats the steel which makes creosote and ash less likely to stick and cause issues.

Marty, I doubt you'll get a response, when we talked about the powder at last years meetings I was told that it did make the ash less corrosive, of course there wanting dealers to buy it as well, so who knows.  I do however know who would know, and ill try to give them a call this week

[Scott7m]

I dug around and this is what I found...

First, a reactive agent neutralizes the slightly acidic creosote making it less corrosive to metal components and less flammable. Second, a dehydrator absorbs the oils and moisture contained in some forms of creosote. Third, a combustion inhibitor helps reduce the chance of chimney fires. Finally, a magnesium catalyst helps break down third-degree creosote when the flue is heated by normal use.

Keep in mind us owb guys aren't that concerned with chimney fires, but this product is also used indoors as well. 


If your wondering the cost, it's $98.95 for a small bucket of it, it should last the average user a couple of years.  Shipping is additional. 

[johnybcold]

Do you sell it Scott? I would like to get one