Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers with NON EPA-Certified Models Only => Shaver Furnace => Topic started by: Stoneman on March 24, 2014, 08:13:42 PM
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Hello to all!
New to the site and waiting for delivery of a shaver furnace. (Maybe another month) Have my pad and hookups pretty much ready. Been cutting, splitting and storing firewood for the winter coming up. 2 cords of white oak so far. Running out of storage areas!
Looking forward to saving on utility bill and asking a bunch of questions to all you pro's!
Got my nickname from my co-workers. The property I live on is mostly rock, hedge and cedar!
I will be reading a lot of the your past posts, to answer a lot of my questions.
Keep your wood dry and,
Have a great day! Doug R.
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Stoneman, in case you are wondering why nobody has replied to your post, I think most on here are not happy with Shaver and are leery of getting involved, Let me be the first to WELCOME you aboard regardless of the brand you chose. A word of caution, do not cheap out on the install, do IT right the first time, the boiler can be swapped out quite easily but it would not be easy to change out piping and such, Sloppy Snood just started a new thread on his install and it will lead you step by step through the whole process, I suggest that you follow it very closely. Best of luck and keep on posting!!!
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2 cords of white oak so far....KEEP CUTTING
from what i have read on here a lot of folks have got their shavers to work decently with some "adjustments"
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If you are running out of room with 2 cords, you're in for some trouble. I don't even know what region of the country you're in. Better start expanding!! 2 cords might get you through a mild winter in southern Georgia!! :-\
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What was the name of the dealer that was on here helping with Shaver problems, Greg Steiacher I think it was, I would try to contact him for any questions regarding the stove, Greg are you out there?
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stoneman,I been running a shaver for 4 seasons,it paid for itself in less than 3.I try to lay in at least 5 cords of ex quality wood and 5 or 6 leser quality.I have used anywhere from 7 to 11 cord a season just to give you an idea.Welcome,and check in here regular theirs a good bunch of guys on here that know a lot about owbs and are always willing too help out and sometimes their just downright entertaining.
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First let me extend my sincere sympathy ;D . All kidding aside Slim is right, a shaver can limp along with some modifications. 2 cords isn't going to get you very far especially if you don't do any modifications. I would definitely add a Ranco, damper and a couple of other things before you try to fire it up.
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I have been burning my Shaver 250 for six seasons and I would also recommend doing all the modifications to the stove that you see posted on this forum. I heat a total of about 3400 sq ft. from October to May with no more than 8 cords of seasoned red and white oak. This winter has been exceptionally cold and windy in W. MD. and I have burnt approx. 6.5 cords. Even with negative temps I can consistantly have burn times of 14 to 16 hours. But with my schedule I fill it about every twelve hours. Enjoy you new stove, it will pay for itself quickly.
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Shaver stoves actually function well. We just got through one of the worst MN winters on less than 10 cords with a stock 165. Might try a ranco but am not fully convinced. Use less wood than friends with heatmor and central and am betting the naysayers have never run one long term
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Thanks for all the advice! I now have a wood shed to fill up. Should hold 4 more cords.
Forgot to mention that I purchased a forced air furnace.
But still can use info. on firebox loading, wood curing, creosote, and chimney recommendations.
I have learned a lot from browsing through the forum history.
Is it safe to burn a full load of hedge, or will it warp the door?
:)
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I wouldn't burn much hedge in a forced air stove but that's just my personal opinion. To me it just seems that the metal on the firebox would get much hotter than the firebox of a boiler. You don't have the water on the other side preventing the steel from over heating.
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That makes good sense, thanks AirForcePOL
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I wouldn't burn much hedge in a forced air stove but that's just my personal opinion. To me it just seems that the metal on the firebox would get much hotter than the firebox of a boiler. You don't have the water on the other side preventing the steel from over heating.
Sorry, but to me good burning wood would only get the temperature up to what ever the therostat is set to.
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True, but the fire continues to burn after the damper closes. Like I said that's just my opinion.
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Woods like hedge a locust get much to hot to be burned by themselves in a forced air wood furnace. Someone I know loaded theirs up with just honey locust and melted the duct work from the furnace, and warped the fan and surrounding area. The firebox was fine just the other parts. You can throw a few pieces in each load. Just not solely those woods by themselves.
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In my 30+ years of wood burning stoves I have never had any problems bur
ing such woods by themselves in forced air boxes. Sounds like your friend needs some help installing his duct work.
If you can't control your fire with the damper you have serious problems.
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No doubt. But this isn't a rookie wood burner either. His thought was that the heat would heat the house quicker then turn off. But the fire got hot quicker than the fan could move the air.
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I used to have a drolet Sahara wood stove inside my old house and was burning old scrap 2x4 boards and super dry 1x8 and the fire box even lined with fire brick got so hot the top of the stove was glowing red! I had to stay up for hours waiting for smoke to start filling the house from fire but thankfully it never came to that!