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1

Empyre / Re: Pro series 200 flapper clanging?

« on: March 23, 2014, 05:59:20 PM »

So I could get a 6" metalbest stainless tee and put a barometric damper on it and put it at the bottom of my chimney? Would the damper fit into the side of the tee? What is the theory behind pulling in cold air?

2

Empyre / Re: Pro series 200 flapper clanging?

« on: March 23, 2014, 10:25:41 AM »

Hey fellas. I took off another section of chimney pipe and it stop the flapper from banging. So i guess it was all about the draft. Is there something I can install so i can put the section of chimney back on and have the unit run right? The reason I ask is because the stack is now only about a foot above my soffit and I am worried about exhaust entering the house.

3

Empyre / Re: Pro series 200 flapper clanging?

« on: March 19, 2014, 11:36:24 AM »

Its not just the town. I live in New York and anything they can't tax is a bad thing. Hard to tax firewood so lets just make it so no one can heat there house with it. I am going to take as much chimney down as I can and see how it works. Thanks guys for all the help. I will let you know how it goes. The pipe is 6" insulated.

4

Empyre / Re: Pro series 200 flapper clanging?

« on: March 19, 2014, 10:48:07 AM »

There is no "T" in the pipe. I could remove the cap.

5

Empyre / Re: Pro series 200 flapper clanging?

« on: March 19, 2014, 10:26:40 AM »

The town I live in treats outdoor furnaces like they are the biggest polluting, cancer causing thing imaginable. The code says the unit has to be within 15' of the residence it serves and the stack must be 2' higher then the ridge. So once I got my certificate of compliance i removed 2 sections of chimney to try and help with the problem. If i remove anymore the exhaust will blow into my eave soffit because it is so close to the house. I might be able to take one more off but that would still leave me with 3, 4ft sections.

6

Empyre / Re: Pro series 200 flapper clanging?

« on: March 19, 2014, 03:10:16 AM »

I have tried running it with the rear door open and it still bangs. I ordered a new flapper from pro fab to see if that helps. The only other thing I can think of is that the stack being so high(16') the exhaust is cooling and not rising out of the chimney fast enough and backing up into the fire box. I am not sure if the chimney height is a issue but I know the exhaust temperature is low sometimes there are ice sickles on the chimney cap.

7

Empyre / Pro series 200 flapper clanging?

« on: March 18, 2014, 09:13:17 PM »

Hey guy, I bought a pro series 200 about a year and a half ago. Since I have first started using it I have had problems with the flapper on the back of the unit clanging when the blower is running. If I crack the door while it is happening it stop banging but as soon as I close it again it starts up again. I have called pro fab but can't seem to get a solution. I have changed the blower, cleaned it out many times, removed 2 lengths of chimney pipe, (still have 4 4' lengths on the unit) rearranged the brick patten as pro fab suggested and still nothing worked. Anyone else having a similar problem? I'm kind of at a loss for what to do next.

8

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Moisture at lower ash door Empyre Pro 200

« on: November 04, 2013, 01:32:22 PM »

I have had the same unit as you for over a year now. When it is warmer out and my wood is a little too wet I get the same thing happening.

9

Plumbing / Re: Heat exchanger plumbing question.

« on: December 22, 2012, 02:56:25 PM »

Got it all figured out. The boiler controller on the existing boiler was the problem, it was not low limit adjustable enough.  It had a adjustable high limit with a 15 deg. differential. Changed it out with on that had a adjustable high and low limit and its all working just fine. 
My furnace and water heater have not turned on in 3 weeks! I could not be happier. Thank you guys for all the help.   
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.
Dennis

10

Plumbing / Re: Heat exchanger plumbing question.

« on: December 03, 2012, 06:32:25 AM »

Well I got the owf installed but I'm having a problem getting my existing furnace up to temperature. I know the owf is working as it should because its making my dhw.  I have a similar set up SOHIO with regards to the existing circurlator location.
I came off the boiler drain and through a new circurlator to the heat exchanger. Then from the other side of the heat exchanger to the supply side of the furnace. It does get the furnace hot just extremely slowly, the oil burner runs every time there is a call for heat.
My only guess is that where I taped into the supply line is wrong. There was a "T"  already there with the expansion tank on it. I extended the line put another "T" in it for the expansion tank and then ran the line from the heat exchanger. Could that be the reason? Is the expansion tank restricting the flow?

11

Plumbing / Re: Heat exchanger plumbing question.

« on: November 05, 2012, 06:13:51 PM »

I haven't hooked mine up yet but from my reading to heat about 3000 sqft it would require a 50 plate hx. It should be good to about 100,000 btu's. when I get it in and running I'll let you know how it works.

12

Plumbing / Re: Heat exchanger plumbing question.

« on: October 28, 2012, 08:52:04 AM »

Thanks a lot guys. I guess I will plumb it like the Central Boiler diagram says. I'll let you know how it goes.

13

Plumbing / Re: Heat exchanger plumbing question.

« on: October 26, 2012, 07:02:18 PM »

Maybe I asked his question the wrong way.  If you have an outdoor furnace, a boiler and baseboard heat, how is your system plumbed.  Please help a guy out.

14

Plumbing / Heat exchanger plumbing question.

« on: October 24, 2012, 05:27:02 PM »

Hello, I am new to this forum and the world of outdoor furnaces. I just bought a empire pro 200 after much research. The question I have is how to plumb the heat exchanger into my existing boiler. Is it best to just "T" into the return side of the boiler or run a loop type system from the supply, through the heat exchanger, to the boiler return with another circulator? 
If I "T" into the return the boiler will need to use some oil to get it up to temp. when the heat has not been on for a while. The loop system will keep the boiler a temp. all the time but I'm not sure if it will keep up with demand.  Any information you guys may have would be a big help. Thanks.