Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers with NON EPA-Certified Models Only => Home Made => Topic started by: zimmie on February 19, 2011, 03:18:32 PM
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This is a boiler that I am currently working on. It is a bit more complicated than maybe I should have made it but it is a fun project. I have learned alot during the last month of design and build. Will post more pics.
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more pics
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30"x32"x42" Fire box
all 1/4" plate - top is 5/16"
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water filled door almost done
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Looking good! :thumbup:
I see you went with the waffle top on your fire box.What kind of water capacity you planning on?Are MIG or SMAW the chamber together?I would advise to make double passes.
Look forward to more pics
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I did mostly MIG weld. Some stick on the door. Water capacity will be around 200 gallons. I should have did double pass welding on the whole thing. I will be going back over everything this week. I had a hard time with getting the water chamber on the door sealed. Planning to heat 1600sqft. Home and 1000sqft garage. Hope it will do it. I am up for any suggestions.
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It will do the job. I'm with jackel, definately double pass on the welds. Keep us informed.
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Make sure if you are MIG it I hope you have a bigger machine so you can burn in your root pass and get good penetration.I ended up with a few cold welds which I thought were fine.Building a tank to hold water and not leak ended up being a little more tricky than I expected.I was a little cocky thinking it would be no problem.LOL
Oh well live and learn ;)
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Well I did weld both sides of everything. I used .035 wire at about 25volts and 320wire speed. But I think I will weld over everything agian just to be safe. Thanks for the thoughts. What do you suggest on the door seal? Should I put silicone in the grove, lay the rope in and then silicone over the rope?
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Both will work. Kinda up to you. Heatsource1 uses silicone, lots of other units use rope. Jackel, what do ya think?
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i did what you said i put silicone down rope and went over it with silicone
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I have heard someone one make mention to using wax paper between the outer silicone and the door opening frame to create the indentation in the silicone. The wax paper appearently will not allow the silicone to stick.
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That should work.
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I just placed a bead of High temp silicone in the groove for my door ,and then placed the rope seal in the groove.This was to help hold the rope in the channel.I actually didn't even need it in there.
We install rope seal like this in our heatreating furnaces at work ,and they cycle 48x per 8 hour shift 7 days a week.(without the rtv in the door)That has worked on those big Carborizers for 50 yrs so why not stick to what works?We only change the rope seal if we start to get a slight leak.They are pressurised atmosphere so if they start to leak you will get some flame starting to lick out the door gasket.
I have no experiance using the rtv to make the seal on the door frame.I have read where a few guys have a had to dig thiers out and redo it.I don't see what is the benefit of it.I know it would be a heck of alot easier to pull a rope out and put in a new one in about 5 minutes,Than scraping rtv out of a channel and then having to pump the channel full.Then trying to keep it flat as it sets up to make a good seal.I know it has been said to use wax paper and just lightly shut it.I see that as lost time and more hassle.Plus if its cold out and you need the OWB running your hosed. :bash:
I say rope seal,Adjust the door as the rope sets overtime.Then if it fails rip it out, put in new,throw another log on the fire and go back in the house >:D
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Any thoughts on pressure testing the firebox for leaks? I intend on applying compressed air to the firebox and spraying welds with soapy solution. Will the door gasket seal enough to allow me to put pressure into the firebox?
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You can do it that way, but I would be inclined to fill it with water and check. Or do both. Better to find the leak now and fix, then have it come after it's all done.
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I double welded the firbox chamber.Then I welded the tank inside and out on all sides except for the last panel i put on.I could only weld it from the outside.After all the seams and ports were welded.I then welded a cap over the water level pipe that exits the top of the tank,installed the ball valves for the water ports.I then presurrised the water cavity.MAX OF 10PSI ONLY!!!! I used around 8 psi mostly to check the leaks.I used glass cleaner in a spray bottle as it bubble up quicker than dish soap did..
I then sprayed all the seams inside the firbox,and then on the outside of the tank.
When you find a leak,mark the spot with something,Then dump the air out,then go back and do the weld repair.Then represurise the tank and re check for leaks.
This is a time consuming process but it is what has to be done.
You don't presurise the burn chamber.just check it on the inside when the whole thing is assembled. :thumbup:
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So far I have the firebox complete except for the exhuast stack opening. I pressurized the inside of the fire box and found that I had a couple leaks. I made my repairs and rechecked. After that I stood the firebox up right and filled with water. I plan on looking for any water streaks in the morning. I think I will do the water chamber as you describe just to be sure I will soap the inside of the firebox again. I just don't want to have to deal with leaks!
I learned from a automotive teacher that windshield washer solvent and a couple drops of dish soap in a bottle work best for leak testing. This is what I have always done and it seems to not run off the verticle welds as easy as plain washer solvent.
Thanks for the ideas. I will post more pics soon.
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Does anyone have any suggestions on what size gap between the top of the firebox and the water jacket? Is 8" enough or should I allow for more?
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i would say add as much room as your design can allow,or the amount of stock you have. you will have to allow alittle room for water expansion. overall your water capacity could be more or less with this decision.
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Framing up the Housing
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Front of stove with door installed
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Rear of stove.
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Looking good :thumbup: