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31
Portage & Main / Things I've learned from my BL3444
« on: March 16, 2016, 08:12:29 AM »
Approaching the end of my second season with the stove (2nd season with any outdoor stove actually). Last winter was much more severe with many days failing to reach above zero, and many lows in the -30s and -20s. This year we've had occasional lows into the -20s (twice maybe?) but many mild days, including 50s and 60s this month. These are the things I've learned through two years now of working with the stove.
1. Smaller, dry pieces of wood, loaded to the same volume as large wet pieces of wood, burns much more efficiently. I was stoked (no pun intended) to be able to load it full with big rounds last year and then reload it 24+ hours later. That led to a lot of smoke. I get the same burn times now with splits or smaller rounds that are dry.
2. Keep the ashes low to keep the firebrick exposed. I have the non-shaker version. Last year it seemed the stove lasted longer between loads if I had ash/coal bed piled up almost to the door. This year, I've shoveled out 20 gallons of ash every one or two weeks, to the point that it looks almost like the fire won't relight because there's so few coals in there that I'm throwing logs onto. It burns way better this way. The firebrick help keep it hotter and the fire can relight easier. I make sure to rake it enough so the ashes keep falling into the cleanout chute, which leads to the third thing I've learned...
3. Keep the ash cleanout chute cleared at least every week. This allows the airflow to be much more efficient to get the fire going again, and to burn it hotter once it's going as the air is flying in from two directions with maximum speed. When it's burning efficiently, I see only heat coming out of the stove. When the coal bed is small and the ashes are not in the firebox, I get a blowtorch of flames shooting up from the chute when it's burning with the blower on. I'm assuming it's from small coals falling into the chute that are getting completely burned up to ash. That really helps in the efficiency department.
4. Keep the diff longer instead of shorter. Last year I had it at 7 degrees. This year, 12 degrees (190 set point, fan kicks on at 178). I've thought about trying to lower it further, but it's been working so well this way I don't want to mess with it. Even in the warm 50s and 60s weather we've had this month, I still leave it set there. I thought I'd have to lower it so the fan kicked on at about 183 for the warm weather, but I haven't had to. Probably because:
5. Don't overload it. Load just enough to get to the next fill. I aim for 12 hours. 98% of the time, my aimed-for-12-hours-fills would last about 16 hours or more. Less fresh wood allows it to burn more of the coals completely to ash, which aids in raking the ash into the chute, which aids in keeping the ashes low, which keeps the coal bed low, which keeps the firebrick exposed, which makes my life easier!
Bottom line, I'm really liking this stove. It's heating 5200 square feet between a house and a detached garage, and DHW, and working wonderfully.
1. Smaller, dry pieces of wood, loaded to the same volume as large wet pieces of wood, burns much more efficiently. I was stoked (no pun intended) to be able to load it full with big rounds last year and then reload it 24+ hours later. That led to a lot of smoke. I get the same burn times now with splits or smaller rounds that are dry.
2. Keep the ashes low to keep the firebrick exposed. I have the non-shaker version. Last year it seemed the stove lasted longer between loads if I had ash/coal bed piled up almost to the door. This year, I've shoveled out 20 gallons of ash every one or two weeks, to the point that it looks almost like the fire won't relight because there's so few coals in there that I'm throwing logs onto. It burns way better this way. The firebrick help keep it hotter and the fire can relight easier. I make sure to rake it enough so the ashes keep falling into the cleanout chute, which leads to the third thing I've learned...
3. Keep the ash cleanout chute cleared at least every week. This allows the airflow to be much more efficient to get the fire going again, and to burn it hotter once it's going as the air is flying in from two directions with maximum speed. When it's burning efficiently, I see only heat coming out of the stove. When the coal bed is small and the ashes are not in the firebox, I get a blowtorch of flames shooting up from the chute when it's burning with the blower on. I'm assuming it's from small coals falling into the chute that are getting completely burned up to ash. That really helps in the efficiency department.
4. Keep the diff longer instead of shorter. Last year I had it at 7 degrees. This year, 12 degrees (190 set point, fan kicks on at 178). I've thought about trying to lower it further, but it's been working so well this way I don't want to mess with it. Even in the warm 50s and 60s weather we've had this month, I still leave it set there. I thought I'd have to lower it so the fan kicked on at about 183 for the warm weather, but I haven't had to. Probably because:
5. Don't overload it. Load just enough to get to the next fill. I aim for 12 hours. 98% of the time, my aimed-for-12-hours-fills would last about 16 hours or more. Less fresh wood allows it to burn more of the coals completely to ash, which aids in raking the ash into the chute, which aids in keeping the ashes low, which keeps the coal bed low, which keeps the firebrick exposed, which makes my life easier!
Bottom line, I'm really liking this stove. It's heating 5200 square feet between a house and a detached garage, and DHW, and working wonderfully.
32
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Cleaning plate exchanger
« on: March 07, 2016, 08:01:52 AM »
You'd be flushing acid through the part that your drinking water flows through? Is that safe?
33
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Well its all over
« on: March 06, 2016, 12:52:44 PM »
I know someone who got around a local ordinance requiring having an OWB on a minimum of 5 acres, by building a small metal building around the OWB, thereby making it an indoor wood burning stove...
34
Electronics / Re: ecobee3 stat hookup
« on: March 03, 2016, 09:15:34 AM »I was wondering about this thermostat because you can get additional temp sensors for more room's, do these just let you know what the room temp is our is there something else that you can get to help regulate the individual room temps, I saw duct work vent's at lowes that I presume either open or close or change the air flow direction Ill look this morning when I go by there
Without automated opening/closing duct lines I don't see it doing much to keep all the rooms the same. I have a 2 story house and keep the thermostat set at 73 degree 24/7, whether I'm home or not. The upstairs is about 69-70. What's funny is that the upstairs is actually warmer when the outside temp is below zero, as the furnace runs more often than it does when the outside temp is in the 20s and 30s.
I was told the separate sensor upstairs would cause it to kick on and move air around to try to regulate the temp better. Not sure that it does that though. It probably works better with a forced air system running only on gas or propane, as it can just blow the air around. But with a plenum in the way with hot water all the time, it'd just keep sending hot air.
I like the ecobee mainly for the access to it from my phone during the summer. I can turn the thermostat down to 68 when I'm on my way back from out of town so the house is nice and cold when I arrive.
35
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Could lose power can you help with this question PLEASE
« on: February 24, 2016, 04:00:05 PM »What about freeze up on the lines[any exposed]
I have backup genny to run pump and Wheel of Fortune in case of blackout!!
I would imagine if the temps aren't too far below freezing then the lines shouldn't freeze, assuming the only exposed ones are right under the stove. Heat should travel from the stove at least partway into the lines just through natural heat flow.
I've got a standby Generac that comes on automatically when we lose power. Love it! Have used it twice now; once for 2 hours, second time for an hour. Runs the whole house and everything.
36
Equipment / Skidsteer Grapples
« on: February 21, 2016, 03:21:28 PM »
I'm trying to decide what kind of grapple to buy for my skidsteer. Is a grapple bucket better than a set of forks with a grapple on it? Or is a simple grapple (like a Frostbite brand grapple) the best way to go? I want to be able to fall a tree and haul it out of the woods then buck it with the chainsaw near the stove. Seems like forks with a grapple would work well, but I don't know how tightly it can hold some 8' logs and think maybe a Frostbite type grapple would be best.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
37
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: OWB for domestic hot water question
« on: February 13, 2016, 06:31:59 AM »
It's not your water that's causing a leak. I keep my stove at 190 degrees with a 10 degree diff. I live in snow and cold country and it works great at that temp. I'd try yours at 180 at least for the set point.
38
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: good top loader?
« on: February 06, 2016, 07:13:43 AM »Check out Ridgewood Stoves....they make 2 huge toploaders....theu are going out of business and have gotten their prices on the remaining stoves they have
Another small business destroyed by federal regulations. Keep up the good work EPA! Drive those business owners onto the welfare rolls where they can be more easily controlled!
Sorry, I don't usually rant, but I remember thinking Ridgewood would have to close when the stupid emissions standards were passed, and there they go. They had a good product and a good reputation.
39
Portage & Main / Re: Should I upgrade from a cb 6048. To a 3444
« on: February 05, 2016, 07:26:05 PM »
Is that 12-25 face cords or full cords a year? If it's full cords, that's way to much to be burning for that amount of square feet.
40
Portage & Main / Re: bl34-44 fire going out
« on: February 04, 2016, 12:24:53 PM »
One other thought. If you're still having problems and if you have a free day, let the fire go out over night and wait until your water temp drops to about 130 or so before you light a new one. You'll have time to clean out the ashes, then you can start a fire with kindling, put small splits on top of that, larger splits on top of that, then you'll have some good coals going. It'll be a constant burn as it gets back up to 190 degrees.
41
Portage & Main / Re: bl34-44 fire going out
« on: February 03, 2016, 08:23:54 AM »
Only other thought is that the wood might be too wet, either from rain or snow?
42
Portage & Main / Re: bl34-44 fire going out
« on: February 02, 2016, 05:42:58 PM »
Try putting less wood in, and maybe splitting it more. If you have a good base of coals going, you shouldn't have any problems. Don't let the ash get too thick. I am on my second season with the same stove and have no complaints. I find it burns better with more of the firebrick exposed. Also, I'd move the diff to 10 instead of 5, at least once you get the coal bed set. Empty out your ashes once a week in the ash cleanout. It helps to keep the air flow. I find with keeping a smaller ash bed, you burn the coals more into ash that can fall between the firebricks.
Could also try loading in some kindling with the oak.
I'm in the U.P. of Michigan and this year I'm getting 12-16 hour burn times on smaller loads of wood than I burned last year. Granted, last year was much colder with multiple sub-zero nights, but on comparable nights, I'm doing better this year than last year, where last year I let the ash bed completely cover the firebricks. I burn mostly sugar maple with some white oak and white birch, plus some occasional softwood.
Could also try loading in some kindling with the oak.
I'm in the U.P. of Michigan and this year I'm getting 12-16 hour burn times on smaller loads of wood than I burned last year. Granted, last year was much colder with multiple sub-zero nights, but on comparable nights, I'm doing better this year than last year, where last year I let the ash bed completely cover the firebricks. I burn mostly sugar maple with some white oak and white birch, plus some occasional softwood.
43
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Whole house Humidifier
« on: January 30, 2016, 10:05:01 AM »
I have one. I leave the thermostat at 73 and the whole house keeps the humidity around 38-41 percent. I have it set to aim for 50 percent but the furnace isn't running enough to get it that high (I have the house super insulated and air tight).
Everyone has a different one. I don't remember my model off the top of my head since my HVAC guy did it when he did the whole system when we built the house.
I don't think they're that hard to install yourself but I prefer paying an expert on something like that. I highly recommend getting one. 20% is just way too low.
Everyone has a different one. I don't remember my model off the top of my head since my HVAC guy did it when he did the whole system when we built the house.
I don't think they're that hard to install yourself but I prefer paying an expert on something like that. I highly recommend getting one. 20% is just way too low.
44
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Guys, I / we could use some help
« on: January 28, 2016, 08:44:00 AM »Thanks agriffinjd and slimjim. Yes Slim this is your old buddy Dave from WI, I originally posted because I could hardly believe my libertarian friend was calling for government subsidiesStill remember the time you joined me at the Barron County fair in WI. I was burning the Enviro 500 with 50% moisture white ash wood chips, I had it going good but you fine tuned it so the flame was roaring right out the door, the sheriff came by and nicely asked if we could back it down a bit. Quite a sight at night. Still have the video. Hope all is well with you and yours.
I figured that was you Dave.
I bought my P&M boiler from Dave last year. Great guy to do business with. I know at the time Slimjim was wanting him to be on this site, then once he got on he got flamed! I hope he stays on and keeps contributing because he has been a great help on a couple of my own issues I had with my stove as I began to learn it last year.
Andy
45
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Guys, I / we could use some help
« on: January 27, 2016, 09:57:04 PM »
I can vouch that strawbale builder is no spy. Let's have respectful dialogues with those you disagree with. This site has been very useful to so many, and it's almost always been civil if not friendly.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.