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Author Topic: Underground pipe options  (Read 12487 times)

ffbare

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #30 on: February 19, 2014, 08:21:46 PM »

I haven't read much on height changes if you install a owb on the bottom of a hill and you use an 1 1/4 pex or something like that would it be a big deal as far as pumping water uphill your return would almost act as a suction maybe? I'm thinking , maybe 10 feet lower ground maybe 50 foot run.  Also (I'm new at this) would the water leak out of the boiler if the pump stopped running because the boiler is lower than the line to the house. Thanks guys
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slimjim

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #31 on: February 20, 2014, 04:54:23 AM »

Install a plate exchanger at the wood boiler and you will have no issues with pumping or air period.
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Sprinter

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #32 on: February 20, 2014, 07:57:07 AM »

I haven't read much on height changes if you install a owb on the bottom of a hill and you use an 1 1/4 pex or something like that would it be a big deal as far as pumping water uphill your return would almost act as a suction maybe? I'm thinking , maybe 10 feet lower ground maybe 50 foot run.  Also (I'm new at this) would the water leak out of the boiler if the pump stopped running because the boiler is lower than the line to the house. Thanks guys

This is where pressurized systems have the advantage, zero worries about water level , flat plates and associated problems of elevation differences
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slimjim

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #33 on: February 20, 2014, 08:36:27 AM »

  To each his own sprinter, what happens when your pressurized boiler sitting outside loses all power, have you ever seen a farmer that instead of replacing that 15 dollar relief valve instead puts a 3/4 inch plug in it. pressurized boilers have their place and outside is not the place and if they are installed inside a home they must have the proper dump zones capable of dissipating the heat without the use of power, I put a non pressurized boiler on my home and shop for a reason and that is SAFETY.
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LittleJohn

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #34 on: February 20, 2014, 10:02:51 AM »

If memory serves, my reading of Central Boiler manual  :bag:; again I admit to reading manual - I'm sorry.  It is best if you can keep all of your open loop piping below the minimum water level of the OWB; you will lessen the change of getting air bubbles stuck in the lines and vapor locks occuring.

*** If a portion of open loop is above overflow of the OWB and leaks, water level will more than likely drop to lowest open portion of the loop (probably the overflow on the OWB)***   :(

I personally have open loop from OWB (CB eClassis 2400) to mechanical room then Flat plate to closed loop for in slab and under subfloor.  Closed loop systems are nice if you want to run a glycol mix (and not have to mix entire water jacket 200+ gallons with $$$/gallon antifreeze) or radiant application where a portion o application is above overflow/high point of open loop OWB.  Remember with any HX you incur a penalty in temperature (as in any energy tranfer loss are inevitable) and typically loss of GPM (generally HX have high pressure drops)

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mlappin

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #35 on: February 20, 2014, 02:07:16 PM »

If memory serves, my reading of Central Boiler manual  :bag:; again I admit to reading manual - I'm sorry.  It is best if you can keep all of your open loop piping below the minimum water level of the OWB; you will lessen the change of getting air bubbles stuck in the lines and vapor locks occuring.

*** If a portion of open loop is above overflow of the OWB and leaks, water level will more than likely drop to lowest open portion of the loop (probably the overflow on the OWB)***   :(

I personally have open loop from OWB (CB eClassis 2400) to mechanical room then Flat plate to closed loop for in slab and under subfloor.  Closed loop systems are nice if you want to run a glycol mix (and not have to mix entire water jacket 200+ gallons with $$$/gallon antifreeze) or radiant application where a portion o application is above overflow/high point of open loop OWB.  Remember with any HX you incur a penalty in temperature (as in any energy tranfer loss are inevitable) and typically loss of GPM (generally HX have high pressure drops)

So any recommendations on how to run pex lines up in the rafters of our shop for modine style heaters?
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mtoll

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #36 on: February 23, 2014, 10:52:58 AM »

Im in the process of installing my OWB and have decided I need to place it in a area where Im about 6 feet short of Logstor pipe which means I would have to splice the pipe underground 3 or 4 feet before it enters my house.  Any suggestions  or opinions
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Scott7m

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #37 on: February 23, 2014, 11:25:19 AM »

Im in the process of installing my OWB and have decided I need to place it in a area where Im about 6 feet short of Logstor pipe which means I would have to splice the pipe underground 3 or 4 feet before it enters my house.  Any suggestions  or opinions

Yikes, that's not good.  Don't let anyone tell you that it doesn't matter because the foam won't absorb water, because it will over time...

Logstor does carry stuff for splicing tho, although it's not cheap
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mtoll

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #38 on: February 23, 2014, 12:59:25 PM »

Dont  guess I would have to move it,  what kind of cost to splice it
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Sloppy_Snood

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Re: Underground pipe options
« Reply #39 on: February 24, 2014, 07:20:01 PM »

Dont  guess I would have to move it,  what kind of cost to splice it

I would bet it is less costly to move the stove closer to make up the distance.  ;)  Splicing is costly and introduces a potential failure point in the future (installing a continuous run of Logstor pipe underground in the first place is to avoid any connections, couplings, splicing, etc.).  Ground shifts over time so I would recommend moving the stove itself.  ;)
« Last Edit: March 03, 2014, 02:01:32 PM by Sloppy_Snood »
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