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[JSuther69]

I am helping a friend with his TOF install.  He has a second unit in his attic that we will be supplying with hot water from the outdoor furnace.  He has a drain pan, pump and switch under the unit to shut it down in the event of water in the tray.  We want to install Taco Zone Valves (24v) in the basement that will shut off the water to/from the attic unit and open a bypass to allow the water to flow back to the outdoor furance.  If the water switch shuts off the unit it will close the supply/return and open the bypass.  I will be installing 2 NC valves on the supply/return and 1 NO on the bypass.  This will also control the valves in the event of a power outage and allow the outdoor furnace and the downstair unit to run with a generator.

I know I need the valves, a 24v power supply to power the valves and some sort of relay that will take a dry contact from the switch and will open/close the appropriate valves.  I like the Taco 1" Zone Sentry Valves for this application.

Now for my questions.  Has anyone done this?  What type of relay do I need (icecube or others)?  Can you provide a wiring schematic for the relay configuration and a spec for the relay.  I am very proficient in wiring and plumbing, but this is the only piece I am scratching my head about.

Thanks for any help,
Jim
KY

[slimjim]

I'm really surprised that nobody has chimed in on this and I'm sorry that I did not. I'm not sure why you think you need all those zone valves, when I put a rad in where overheat or ghost flow may be an issue I typically use 1  normally closed zone valve on the supply side of the heat exchanger just after a bypass loop, PM me and I'll send you a crude drawing, Sorry I still haven't figured out how to post a picture on here!

[NaturallyAspirated]

How about a couple closely spaced T's and a circulator with a check valve on the supply side and a check valve on the discharge side.  If you drop the lines going upstairs a couple feet down off the header before going upwards that would create a heat trap and eliminate any need for zone valves at all.  Something like this perhaps:



This allows you to zone each exchanger via the circulators, you are not forced to run though the downstairs unit to supply the upstairs unit.

Neal

[RSI]

Why not just use a 3 way zone valve instead? What is the reason for the water switch in the tray?

[slimjim]

Naturally Aspirated, How did you draw  and post that I GOTTA KNOW !!!

[Roger2561]

Naturally Aspirated, How did you draw  and post that I GOTTA KNOW !!!

Slim - Below the narrative box (where I'm typing this response) you should see "+" with the words "Attachments and other options", press that button.  It should show a button that says Attach (it's in bold); below that you'll see a word "Browse", press that button.  You'll then be able to look through your files for the pic you wish to upload.  You may receive an error message saying your file is too large.  You'll have to resize it.  I went online and found a free program that allows you to resize the pic you wish to upload.

What I did before I tried to upload a file I went to the test area and tried it there first. 

I hope this helps.  Roger

[slimjim]

Thanks Roger, I'll get my wife to help me navigate that later, I also wanted to know how he drew it, is there a program for it!

[Roger2561]

Sorry Slim, when it comes to draw/CAD programs, I'm in over my head.  I wish I could help you out with that. 

I gotta go, folks.  Younger bro and I are remodeling the 2nd floor of my house for an apartment for him.  This will help both of us financially.  Plus, it'll be nice to have someone help me buck up, split and stack firewood.  My back is taking a beating from it.  Roger 

[slimjim]

Thanks for your help Roger.

[NaturallyAspirated]

Naturally Aspirated, How did you draw  and post that I GOTTA KNOW !!!

I used visio, I have semi-copied most industry standard hydronic icons for different devices.

If you need/want me to draw something out for you let me know.   

Neal

[slimjim]

Thanks Neal, I can draw it on paper but that seems like a really nice app

[JSuther69]

Sorry it's been a few days since I posted.  Thank you all for providing feedback.

I think I have it figured out.  Attached is a schematic of the installation.  I am not trying to control the water flow to the attic unit, just shut it off and allow the water to circulate back to the OWF.

The customer has an attic unit that is equiped with a drain pan, condensate pump and shut-off switch.  In the event of water in the pan, the switch will shut the unit down and keep from flooding the lower 3 levels of the house.  He has requested the same with this install.

I have found a Wet Switch flood detector that will control valves or a furnace in the event of moisture in a pan or on the floor.  This swich will allow me to stop the water to the unit in the basement and keep from pumping out 20gpm water into the house.  The switch will control (2) NC and (1) NO zone valves that will immediately shut the water flow to the attic and open the bypass to allow the water to keep circulating for the other systems.  This will allow repairs to be made and not shut down heating to the remaining house.

This will also allow the use of the basement furnace in the event of an electrical outage due to the normal state of "bypass" without control power.  The generator will provide blower power and the circulation pump at the OWF.

Thanks to all for looking at this thread and providing helpful feedback.

Jim
Bedford, KY