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[slimjim]

Could you PM me your address and phone number again so I have it? We will probably leave Chester Vt. Around 8 AM.

[hondaracer2oo4]

Pm sent

[slimjim]

I'm not sure of an exact time Honda but thanks for the PM, we should be leaving here around 8 AM so slow travel time from Chester VT. Ken or as you guys know him (Cabo) said it would be OK to post a pic of him with the new hat that he earned by doing the copper work on his buddies job, he really did do a nice job!

[hondaracer2oo4]

Ill be around. I am on the left headed north. Double mailboxes on a granite mailbox post. Two story center chimney colonial.

[hondaracer2oo4]

After talking with Slim today this is the direction that I am going. Any suggestions?

[juddspaintballs]

I like the idea there.  Lots of pumps, but I assume they're all fairly tiny and inexpensive (relatively).

I see the main loop at labelled 1-1/4".  Is that Pex or black iron or...?  I suspect the main loop could actually be quite small, more along the lines of a manifold system rather than a big loop since each appliance is on it's own loop. 

[hondaracer2oo4]

Not pex, either black iron or copper. I think I am leaning towards copper. I don't plan on making te primary loop very big, big enough though to add a couple spots for any future expansion if I want which slimjim recommended. I  am thinking a taco 007 would be big enough for all of the pump spots. The oil boiler, water to air hx and sidearm pumps will all be only running when a call for heat happens. The primary loop pump will run 24/7 and so will the owb pump.

[juddspaintballs]

I wonder if this would work for you
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-672XV4L-11313-Manifold-1-Male-Sweat-x-1-Female-Sweat-Trunks-w-1-2-PEX-Crimp-Ball-Valves-11-Outlets

It's 1" on the main barrel, but 1" copper has a larger ID than 1" PEX or black iron. 

[hondaracer2oo4]

I know they aren't the best pics or the best drawing but could you guys look them over and see what I have missed or should think about. Thanks!

[slimjim]

Ok Honda, I'll give it a try, your drawings are a bit hard to follow for me on the IPad but here goes, first the 90's at the ports on the plate exchanger could be what we call bull nose tees, 1 inch copper, then straight through is 1/2 or 3/4 inch female pipe and then the side leg is again 1 inch copper, this allows for drains to be installed in the female pipe thread ports for future cleaning without removal of the plate exchanger.
 Next is the water to air exchanger, you have temp gauges on both sides, I'm not sure that is money well spent, instead typically there would be an aqua stat that monitors the exiting water temp, it would be used to turn the fan motor on and off by temp rise and fall, this ensures that the fan does not come on before hot water reaches the heat exchanger.
 That is all I see right off but again it is hard to read for me, perhaps if you E Mail me your drawings it will be clearer

[hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks Richard, I sent you an email to mainlycustomsawing@yahoo.com, hopefully that is your email. Thanks again.

[slimjim]

Perfect, got it and yes it is much easier to read now, Thank You!  I would use the bull nose tees instead of the regular 90's and move the ball valves to between the temp gauges and the bull nose tees.
 Also your expansion tank and air separator should be on the primary loop with a minimum of 18 inches of straight run before the air separator in order to function best! Note, ball valves should NEVER be shut off when the oil boiler is in operation

[hondaracer2oo4]

Thank you. I will get to ordering parts and assembly! Should I put any y strainers anywhere? What about air vents?

[slimjim]

Yes on the Y strainers IF you are going to clean them, most people never do so, then it's a waste. Yes on bottle vents but only on the pressurized side of the system.

[hondaracer2oo4]

Where in the system should I place the Y's and the vents?