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For Sale / Re: Heatmaster 10000e for sale
« on: March 20, 2018, 09:26:39 PM »
someone really needs to buy this stove ........
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For Sale / Re: Heatmaster 10000e for sale
« on: July 01, 2017, 02:09:22 AM »
had an offer for $8500 guessing now I should have taken it . I still have this stove,
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For Sale / Heatmaster 10000e for sale
« on: February 12, 2017, 04:43:58 PM »
I have a 3 year old SS Heatmaster 10Ke for sale, paid close to $13K for it I need $10K for it. it is an awesome wood burner used if for the last 2 winters but barely at all this winter . Stove stays at 130F even when no fire is lit, I plumbed in a gas hot water tank and added it into the loop
We have availability to natural gas and are now installing heating equipment with NG,
it has all correct treatment chemicals and the official paperwork from the MFG. certified tester
I live in Southeast Ohio 45786 you must pick up stove, I can get equip. to load it
do not use this message board to respond as I probably will never be back to check it
contact me brians206@gmail.com for any questions
We have availability to natural gas and are now installing heating equipment with NG,
it has all correct treatment chemicals and the official paperwork from the MFG. certified tester
I live in Southeast Ohio 45786 you must pick up stove, I can get equip. to load it
do not use this message board to respond as I probably will never be back to check it
contact me brians206@gmail.com for any questions
4
For Sale / Re: HeatmasterSS 10,000e
« on: March 11, 2014, 09:03:15 PM »
Sluggo
can you estimate how much wood you burned last year? I have just a few more square feet, but not as harsh temps, was just wondering how it compared to what I fed mine this winter.
Thanks
can you estimate how much wood you burned last year? I have just a few more square feet, but not as harsh temps, was just wondering how it compared to what I fed mine this winter.
Thanks
5
Shaver Furnace / Re: shaver nightmares
« on: February 10, 2014, 10:15:26 PM »
my 290 was steaming off really bad as well , it 2 things to fix it, replaced the original aquastat with a Ranco and installed a return line to the front of the stove. sealed up the square in the back with good high temp silicone, and then put a 1/2in 90 with a 4 inch nipple on the overflow pipe. the 4 inch nipple has just a slight incline (not straight up) so any steam hits it and condenses back to water and runs back in the stove. since i have done this i rebuilt the door seal as well.
a few pictures here --- woops sorry photo link taken down because this site loaded my server full of viruses
a few pictures here --- woops sorry photo link taken down because this site loaded my server full of viruses
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Shaver Furnace / Re: anyone burning coal in a shaver 165?
« on: February 10, 2014, 07:19:11 PM »
yes, I am burning ohio bit coal exclusivly , i am out of wood.. my shaver 290 has never been happier with 50 of 60 lbs of coal. I am getting 16 hour burn times although i dont let it, i refule at 12hrs , and my temps have never been better, I am pleased with my coal results
link to photos taken down this site loaded my server with viruses.
link to photos taken down this site loaded my server with viruses.
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Shaver Furnace / modifications to a shaver 290
« on: February 10, 2014, 07:10:26 PM »
Hello forum users:
I am 3 years into the use of a shaver 290. I am heating 5500+ sqft. and have 2 40 gal hot water tanks. I have made several mods to the stove to eliminate issues.
1st. I was adding 5 gal of make up per day diluting my chemicals. > replaced the aquastat with a Ranco and created a thermal well to put the new probe into, hoping this would shut the blower off before the stove started to boil and blow steam. old stat was set at 140 and boiling was happening up front.
2nd. I removed the top and used several tubes of high temp silicone around the hot water coil access hole to stop steaming off issues and soaking the top of my stove and wetting the insulation.
3rd. I installed a return line to the front of the stove so the cold water was returned to the front where the boiling was taking place and hot water was drawn from the rear, also i installd a 1/2 pipe 90 on the overflow with a 4 inch nipple on a slight elevation in a attempt to condense steam and drip it back into the stove. steaming off is now fixed. and it will go weeks with only a cup of make up befor it drips out
I have added new insulation on top and under the stove as the bottom is left bare.
4th. the door gasket silicone was replaced several times befor the final mod was made. we (stewie3500 and I) ground off the 1/4in bar stock that was tacked every 4 inches and relpaced it with 1in strap that is welded solid all the way around, this created a channel so we could install 3/4in rope gasket glued in with permatex gold high heat adhesive gasket maker. we also removed the bottom bolt of the hinge and welded the hole closed, square the door up and redrilled the new hole. now the door aligns with the stove and fits square.
I am 3 years into the use of a shaver 290. I am heating 5500+ sqft. and have 2 40 gal hot water tanks. I have made several mods to the stove to eliminate issues.
1st. I was adding 5 gal of make up per day diluting my chemicals. > replaced the aquastat with a Ranco and created a thermal well to put the new probe into, hoping this would shut the blower off before the stove started to boil and blow steam. old stat was set at 140 and boiling was happening up front.
2nd. I removed the top and used several tubes of high temp silicone around the hot water coil access hole to stop steaming off issues and soaking the top of my stove and wetting the insulation.
3rd. I installed a return line to the front of the stove so the cold water was returned to the front where the boiling was taking place and hot water was drawn from the rear, also i installd a 1/2 pipe 90 on the overflow with a 4 inch nipple on a slight elevation in a attempt to condense steam and drip it back into the stove. steaming off is now fixed. and it will go weeks with only a cup of make up befor it drips out
I have added new insulation on top and under the stove as the bottom is left bare.
4th. the door gasket silicone was replaced several times befor the final mod was made. we (stewie3500 and I) ground off the 1/4in bar stock that was tacked every 4 inches and relpaced it with 1in strap that is welded solid all the way around, this created a channel so we could install 3/4in rope gasket glued in with permatex gold high heat adhesive gasket maker. we also removed the bottom bolt of the hinge and welded the hole closed, square the door up and redrilled the new hole. now the door aligns with the stove and fits square.
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Shaver Furnace / Re: New to this
« on: February 10, 2014, 06:26:27 PM »
I have a shaver 290 and we have made several mods to the stove, reguarding the door gasket this is what we did, gound away the entire outside piece of 1/4 stock that was only tacked every 4 inches and replaced it with 1 inch strap and did a solid weld all the way around, we used 3/4 in rope gasket and installed it with permatex gold high heat adhesive, in order for the door to close and function correctly I had to redrill the bolt hole to square the door up to the stove(this was done prior to gasket mod) . it was also a little tight on the latch for a few days, but it seals super good, 100% better than using silicone that is squashed to nothing on some sides and very thick on the other. 
you can view the pictures here : too bad: i took the link down, this site loaded my server full of viruses
you can view the pictures here : too bad: i took the link down, this site loaded my server full of viruses
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