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16

Wood Doctor / Re: Does Anyone Know if There is an Optimumn tempeture to set for the wood doctor

« on: December 21, 2012, 04:11:52 AM »

My 8000 is set at 170-190.  I find the hotter the better.  Burn only seasoned dry wood.  I also insulated the original short stack chimney and added 8 feet of stainless steel insulated chimney.  I have virtually no smoke or smell from my clean burning unit.  Wood Dr. is out of business so with the modifications this is now a coonserville stove.

17

Wood Doctor / Re: Door corrosion

« on: February 16, 2012, 07:17:24 PM »

I have 4 years experience with wood dr.  You must burn the driest of wood.  Never green wood. Wood cut and split sitting on pallets and covered with old steel roofing is still 20% moisture.  Never cover sides of woodpile as it keeps in the moisture.  On the stove I just retrofitted the 16 inch stovepipeo it is insulated and covered with a stainless steel outer pipe.  Also the factory stove pipe covers are worthless, they allow rain water to enter the chimney.  I replaced mine with a large piepan type cover mfg by Burkholder Sheetmetal in Epharta, Pa.  All stove pipe must be insulated stainless.  Cold uninsulated steel pipe condenses the moisture from the water in the burning wood and runs down the chimney and will rust the burn chamber.  Back 100 years ago people saved white wood ashes, put them in an old wooden barrel with holes in bottom end, poured rain water in open end of barrel and the water coming out the bottom was lye water to make soap.  They caution however that lye water will rust through steel pans.  So if you have any water and ashes in the burn chamber it causes this lye water mixture which is caustic to the steel.  For hot water heat my temp differential is set at 170-190 and I set house thermostat at 72 degrees 24-7.  I see no moisture at all in the chamber or around the door operating with these conditions.  Radiators in the house are always warm, also I have a 200 gallon hot water tank in cellar which is always 132 degrees and we heat the hot tub daily.  A hot water boiler is way different than a wood stove, it must burn as hot as possible with very dry wood or it will self destruct with corrosion. 

18

Wood Doctor / Re: What Really Happened at Wood Doctor by the President - Arthur Turple

« on: February 11, 2012, 10:39:49 AM »

So Arthur lists a cell phone # but the mailbox is full and no messages can be left.  Nothing has changed Arthur.  You are not keeping the promise you gave me on Nov. 25, 2011 that my stove is under warranty and you would cover it.  Rich Coons

19

Wood Doctor / Re: What Really Happened at Wood Doctor by the President - Arthur Turple

« on: February 11, 2012, 09:55:51 AM »

The fact remains, my wood doctor stove failed after 4 years, I got no help from the factory warranty and repaired it myself at a cost of $ 697.  Arthur will you forward the billing I sent to you to the proper channels.  Thanks.  Rich Coons

20

Wood Doctor / Re: Wood Doctor Problems from Pennsylvania dealer

« on: January 31, 2012, 05:53:02 PM »

I decided after 5 weeks to cut my losses.  I Talked with Jerry Barrick and located steel, in Lewisberry , Pa, got it rolled in York ,Pa, at Kottcamp, and retrofitted the entire stove pipe with insulated stainless from Burkholder Sheet Metal in Epharta, Pa.  I am out $750 in warranty repairs but I have a like new outdoor boiler that is now a CoonsDr as WoodDr does not exist.  Sometimes one must cut their losses and move on.

21

Wood Doctor / Re: Humble Apology

« on: January 11, 2012, 04:35:11 AM »

My dealer from south-central Pa is out $14,000 after being told by Arthur that "the stoves were on the truck and ready to ship with my repair parts inside one of the stoves."  That was almost a month ago and no delivery from Manitoba, Ca.  Another RIP OFF.  

22

Shaver Furnace / Re: A cap that I cannot hang on to my Shaver optional equipment cap holder...

« on: January 09, 2012, 08:08:47 PM »

Can't you just throw the cap in a good bonfire and burn off the creosote?

23

Wood Doctor / Re: Victim of Wood Doctor Fraud? The FBI needs to hear from you.

« on: January 09, 2012, 11:06:31 AM »

My son and I were ripped off as well.  Our boilers started leaking in November.  I talked with Arthur Nov 23, 2011 and he was going to send boiler plate to weld in the firebox to make repairs.  After waiting 5 weeks and reading this web blog I purchased steel locally and installed.  I am sending the bill of $1400 to Arthur.  Hope we can all get what is due but have little hope.  Rich Coons 717-266-4390

24

Wood Doctor / Re: Any word on the Wood Doctor move?

« on: January 08, 2012, 09:11:40 AM »

My Wood Dr. is up and running again.  The interior of the firebox was cleaned with a wire wheel on a 6 foot handle.  This is the only way as you cannot be inside the boiler with all the dust created.  A back plate measuning 14 1/2 inches high and bottom edge cut on a 16 3/8 inch radius was welded on all sides after.  Then a 1 foot by 4 foot piece rolled length wise to a 16 3/8 radius was welded in the bottom rear of firebox.  All welds were pressure tested by covering the vent pipe and applying 1/2 psi pressure then spray weld with soapy water.  $ 95 for the steel and fabricatio and $ 600  for the welding  and I'm in business again.  Sending the bills to Arthur but he is gone.  Hope he is stopped at the border for operating a business with no backbone.

25

Wood Doctor / Re: Humble Apology

« on: January 07, 2012, 07:50:58 AM »

After 4 years my WD boiler rusted out on Nov 23, 2010.  Talked with Arthur and he promised parts to weld in to repair.  After 5 weeks and waiting I shopped locally and welder is finishing repair now.  Arthur 6 and 1/2 weeks in a cold house is no fun.  Arthur and WoodDoctor are done, we must accept the facts. 

26

Wood Doctor / Re: Any word on the Wood Doctor move?

« on: January 07, 2012, 07:41:50 AM »

My wd rusted out Nov 23, I did speek with Arthur and he promised to ship parts to weld for repairs.  5 weeks and no parts so I found locally and repairs being made as I type.  I think WoodDoctor and Arthur are done, finished.  No company should leave you in the cold for 6 weeks.  The boiler lasted only 4 seasons.

27

Wood Doctor / Re: Truth about Wood Doctor by president

« on: January 07, 2012, 07:35:54 AM »

Arthur Turple never did come through with with boiler plate to repair my boiler that rusted out after 4 seasons.  Six weeks and 3 days since I spoke to Arthur and he promised to send the materials asap.  So this week I shoped locally purchased the parts, had pieces rolled and cut to shape and the welder is at work now to repair my stove.  I should have heat in the house by evening.  Why did I wait 5 + weeks?  Because I trusted Arthur.  No more, Arthur and Wood Doctor are history, finished. I will send the bills to Arthur but am sure I will never see the money.  Just accepting the fact I was screwed by a Untrusted Company and not much I can do. 

28

Wood Boiler USA, LLC / Re: Temperature setting

« on: January 06, 2012, 08:14:38 PM »

Yes there is an air leak probably in the door gasket.  I replaced mine twice now in 4 years.  I like 170-190 for hot water heat to old oil furnace for storage before going to radiators in old farm home.  I turn off the oil furnace jet but leave the circulator on to heat house.  Lowering temps may save wood but it usually increases creosote and water condensation from the wood.  20% moisture in air dried wood equals 20 pounds water in every 100 pounds of wood.  This water will condense on uninsulated chimneys run down and make ashes damp in some brands.  Also lowering house temp at night or day can cause problems.  I've been heating with wood for over 30 years. 

29

WoodMaster / Re: WM Temperature setting differences

« on: January 06, 2012, 07:59:39 PM »

I have a wooddoctor for 4 years now.  The fire box just corroded through due to the following; 1.  I put a 10 foot uninsulated chimney on, 2. thermostat was set for 63 at night.  Dealer said chimney was ok 4 years ago but now recommends insulated ss chimney, also constant heat is best, when you lower the temps you build up more creosote.  With my tall uninsulated chimney the water in the wood (  20 % moisture equals 20 pounds of water for every 100 pounds of wood) would condense on the cold pipe and run down the chimney and make the ashes damp.  Wood is cheap compared to repairs of the boiler and chimney, so now I plan to set tempa at 72 degrees in house and 170-190 for furnace temp going to old oil boiler.  I do take the chimney off the oil boiler and turn it off and stuff chimneys with insulation.  This saves lots of heat because it is not lost up the oil burner chimney.  I have been heating with wood for 40 years now , just to pass it on.

30

Heatmor / Re: chimney pipe suggestions

« on: January 05, 2012, 08:08:23 PM »

I know from experience the addon must be insulated and short as needed.  Dry wood is still 20% moisture or 20 pounds of water per 100 pounds of wood.  The water in the wood goes up the chimney but will condense on cold pipe run down into the fire box mix with ash and creosote and you have cancerous steel. Even stainless will rust if not very high grade stainless.  I tried non insulated but am now replacing with ss insulated.  There is a sheet metal shop in Lancaster County, PA which makes ss insulated for 1/2 the cost of other brands and they will custom fit for your chimney.