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[NewToIt]

Jackel.... sorry for the hijack, but I can't stand it when people do this..... so here goes......


Turbo burn...... When you post comments like this in another thread....

"I know there is alot of information out there.  I recommend the Turbo Burn stored energy system.  They are a company out of Washington State where they have banned outdoor burning.  They have a website www.turboburn.net.  They have different sized units so depending on what you need they start fairly small to huge (actually installed in cargo containers)  They are heating towns in Alaska!!!"

.....using the word "they", then later admit that you are the owner of the company in this thread.... it tends to look a little shady, IMO.  It bugs me when people are seemingly hiding their true identity/agenda.


Other than that, post away.  I would love to learn more about your product, but didn't get much from your website.


Good day,

Mark
 

[jackel440]

Wow love all the friendly peeps on here.....by the way it's Mrs Turbo burn.  I was actually responding to the comments about your stove holding 440 gallons (which is great if you're talking about a 440 Hemi) and thought I would say mine held 1349 gallons but apparently everyone got off track.  I love hearing about the build going on but not the negative responses I've gotten....wow!! I have only been on this site for a week and learning how it works.....so to everyone I apologize for not being able to navigate on the site as well as some.  From now on I'll just read and not post....good luck all.

Mrs Turbo Burn,
      Thanks for inquiring about the stove I built.Yes it does hold 440(I am a mopar man ) gallons of water.Now it is GREAT as it holds more than most of the stoves on the market out there.I actually have plans to heat 2K gallons of storage water in the future like I had posted earler in my thread.
        I like your shot at trying to reference mopar engines,but a Hemi was never produced in a 440 cubic inch size.440 is a RB engine which is "Raised Block".which came with 2V,4V and the famous "six pack" induction.
       Now as far as your stove is considered.I think it is great the capacity it has,but your posting didn't come off like this one you posted.Me and like several others just felt it was a sales push.I think it was felt it didn't provide any benefit to this thread.
       Now I  apologize to you if I came off harsh sounding,as that was not my intention.I was trying to direct you to the general section where more people could see and talk about your furnace.Please start a thread on it and post pics like I asked before.I would like to see how its designed and work.Especially after the claims that have been made about it.
       You will find there is great "peeps" on here just have to introduce yourself.By placing links to your stove in several threads without much info pertaining to the thread it just comes off as spamming.Might not have been your intention but that was how it was percieved.
       I invite you to talk about my furnace in this thread all you would like.I then look forward to your own thread on your furnace so we all can learn about it.I know other members will want to know about it.so good luck to you.

[NewToIt]

My apologies Turbo Burn..... I misread one of your posts.  It's no excuse, but I fully expected you to be the owner or affiliated with the company with the nature of some of your first posts..... then people started talking about "YOUR" website.....  I guess, in hindsight, I saw what I wanted to see and not what was really there!

Sorry again, and like I said earlier..... post away.  There is a lot of good and knowledgeable people here!

Mark

[paperman]

.Then a shot showing where water can flow around the back of the heat exchnger trough and between the back tank wall.
 

Question on the 2nd pic on post #47.  I assume hot flue gas goes through the ID of the round flues, what is in contact with the OD of the tube?  I see a baffle seperating the waterspace and the tube? 

Any idea as to what you stack temps are leaving the unit?  Im building a material list and wondered if another pass would be worth the headache.  Thanks for the great build thread.  Nice to see people still build rather than buy. 

[jackel440]

.Then a shot showing where water can flow around the back of the heat exchnger trough and between the back tank wall.
 

Question on the 2nd pic on post #47.  I assume hot flue gas goes through the ID of the round flues, what is in contact with the OD of the tube?  I see a baffle seperating the waterspace and the tube? 

Any idea as to what you stack temps are leaving the unit?  Im building a material list and wondered if another pass would be worth the headache.  Thanks for the great build thread.  Nice to see people still build rather than buy.

Paperman,
  Welcome to the forum!
  Thanks for checking out my stove and yes I love to build rather than buy my stuff.
Now back to your question.Yes the burnt gases from the refractory chamber exit up through the I.D. of the 6 pipes.Now the purpose of the baffle surrounding the pipes.All the return water goes directly into the baffled chamber ,and then the water has to travel up around the heat tube helping to reheat  the water quicker.Then the water comes out of the baffle chamber 2" from the top of the water jacket to mix back with the rest of the water in the water jacket.
Now if you have any more questions just post them up.The whole purpose of my build was to show others what can be done.I would have liked to have done a few things different but she works good and I will be stoking her up soon with the way the dang weather is acting.

[paperman]

Thanks for the quick answer.  I looked but just didnt see the outlet in the pics.  As you said you would change things, what might they be?  Waterbox material 1/8"?  Do you play much with the air mix valves for main air Vs. reburner air?  Can you give me rough dimentions on the gasifier tunnel.  I assume you made it to fit standard fire brink to avoid cutting or was it just a "bend up what looks good and try it" type? 

What keeps the fire alive during the smolder/non-heat cycle? I mean as far as air goes as it looks to be locked down pretty tight.  What are your thoughs on feeding air into the sides of the fire lower in the fire box as some commercial units.   Whats everybody thought on more passes for the flue gas.  P&M has I think 3 passes with very low EGT.  Seems the more tube the more heat pulled out.

I hate to point it out but I think a saw a, well lets just say, a brand X car in the yard in one of the youtube vids.  I bleed blue myself but my old man came right out of mother MOPAR.     

[jackel440]

Thanks for the quick answer.  I looked but just didnt see the outlet in the pics.  As you said you would change things, what might they be?  Waterbox material 1/8"?  Do you play much with the air mix valves for main air Vs. reburner air?  Can you give me rough dimentions on the gasifier tunnel.  I assume you made it to fit standard fire brink to avoid cutting or was it just a "bend up what looks good and try it" type?  I would have changed the air box where the blower mounts a little bit and perhaps used a bigger air feed tube,but the one I have installed works just fine.I have played with them a little bit ,but it was due to a air flow issue which turned out to be the holes in the air tube in the fire box plugging up from creosote the more i used it.I had to pull the tube out and open them up which fixed the problem.I did make the tunnel to fit standard hard brick.I forget the dimensions off the top of my head.If i remember tomorrow I will try and measure it.I still had to cut blocks to fit for air flow and the different chambers.

What keeps the fire alive during the smolder/non-heat cycle? I mean as far as air goes as it looks to be locked down pretty tight.  What are your thoughs on feeding air into the sides of the fire lower in the fire box as some commercial units.   Whats everybody thought on more passes for the flue gas.  P&M has I think 3 passes with very low EGT.  Seems the more tube the more heat pulled out.
Yes it is locked down tight.I haven't ever had an issue with the fire relighting.The burn chamber holds so many hot coals that it lights right up as soom as the oxygen is reintroduced.I almost put in another pass just like the P&M but I had comitted to my design ,and decided to not change again.I do really like how the PM are set up.If I build another in the future I would look real hard at doing something like that.I never did check my stack temp,but it is quit hot coming out.Your not gonna leave your hand in there.Yes your right the more linear feet of tube the more heat absorbed.
I hate to point it out but I think a saw a, well lets just say, a brand X car in the yard in one of the youtube vids.  I bleed blue myself but my old man came right out of mother MOPAR.   

Oh yeah that was my BNLaws crapmaro sitting out here.He finally sold it to a buddy and got it out of here.I still think it would have been fun to squish with the grapple bucket on the skid loader.I am a Mopar man.Ma mopar put the food on the table herealso.I love working for the company that makes my favorite cars and trucks.New and old.I am second generation here,and I am also skilled trades.I have too many old mopars ,and now I want to buy my uncles HD to play on

[tulenutn2o]

Ouch! You are a mean man Jackel.Thalt shall cherish all american cars............

[paperman]

Good to hear you cleansed the yard.  Its amazing how easy pure carbon/charcoal can stay lit or even catch fire.  I make maple syrup in the spring.  The pan I use was on an arch that did not burn so well.  The flues of the pan would build up with carbon.  While building a new arch for the pans I sprayed the bottom of it with sparks from a grinder.  Not heavy snag grinder sparks but light sparks from a 4” Metabo. I see smoke and figure I lit myself up again.  Nope the bottom of the pan had a light glowing ring.  The carbon was burning and was very hot.  Amazed me. 

Does your 1” plate sit on the brick or on the horizontal portion of the fire box ?  With your PID controller what  is your temp. differential set at and is a wider spread better?  I would guess you want the burn to be as long as possible as you are most efficient at full burn.  So would a 15-20 differential be better than the 5 I always seem to see?  It would bring the unit up to temp and dwell longer. 

[jackel440]

Ouch! You are a mean man Jackel.Thalt shall cherish all american cars............

nah I'm not mean just Moody.LOL! I brain washed my kids to love mopars and then they started calling everything junk.I then had to tell them Chevy's and fords were ok,but imports will .always be trash and not allowed in my drive.

[jackel440]

Good to hear you cleansed the yard.  Its amazing how easy pure carbon/charcoal can stay lit or even catch fire.  I make maple syrup in the spring.  The pan I use was on an arch that did not burn so well.  The flues of the pan would build up with carbon.  While building a new arch for the pans I sprayed the bottom of it with sparks from a grinder.  Not heavy snag grinder sparks but light sparks from a 4” Metabo. I see smoke and figure I lit myself up again.  Nope the bottom of the pan had a light glowing ring.  The carbon was burning and was very hot.  Amazed me. 

Does your 1” plate sit on the brick or on the horizontal portion of the fire box ?  With your PID controller what  is your temp. differential set at and is a wider spread better?  I would guess you want the burn to be as long as possible as you are most efficient at full burn.  So would a 15-20 differential be better than the 5 I always seem to see?  It would bring the unit up to temp and dwell longer.
Got to love those Metabolism grinders! I don't know how many times I caught my shirt on fire with a slicer wheel.
Yes the 1" plate sits on the 1 1/4" lip that runs the length of the fire box.there is 1/4" sheet of high density k wool between the brick and plate also.
Ian currently running a 5* differential on my controler.I plan to play with it more this winter.I think it needs to short to keep the temp up in the brick but we shall see what happens.

[paperman]

Do you see a benefit either way of using the two upper chambers flowing into 2 lower chambers like your stove opposed to the single hole and wrap around like the P&M?  The NC furnace is laid out like yours or yours like theirs, either way didn’t know if you knew of a reason each is laid out that way.  The one holer’ design looks good but its hard to beat a two holer’ when you have a bunch of gas to pass.  I’m leaning toward copying the P&M’s gas path but am still looking on what gasifier section to use. 

Waterbox thickness?  Do you think welded stays between the firebox and outer tank would be better than  the stiffeners you installed?

[jackel440]

I am undecided on the style of tunnels in the gas chamber.I have thought if my refractory dies and needs replaced I might try a single tunnel with a larger nozzle to see how it performs.would be alot easier to clean one single chamber than two.then again if that single exit plugs up your done.I have had on tunnel plug and the other keeps working.I credit That to my air flow problem and green wet wood.
my water tank does have welded stays to the fire box .there are four on each side.as Farl as thickness I am happy with 10 gauge. Plus the two runners under the gas chamber are welded to the bottom of the water tank.

[paperman]

Working at a papermill I get most any kind of wood.  Not dry but not fresh cut either.  Been stacked in log form 2 months to year.  This wood is chipped on site for our use.  Could a gasifier but chips well or a waste of time?

 

[jackel440]

Working at a papermill I get most any kind of wood.  Not dry but not fresh cut either.  Been stacked in log form 2 months to year.  This wood is chipped on site for our use.  Could a gasifier but chips well or a waste of time?

They burn wood chips in them all the time.I have seen videos of sawdust being burned but I would think the burn times would be short with sawdust.the chips might burn up quicker than logs but I see no reason not to give it a try.if you have access at either I would be on it.I am curious to know what happens..how big. Are the chips? Are we talking mulch size?