Oh I’m sure, my manual shows a hydraulic windlass that used rope to drag the logs in. Also showed a curved jaw at one time for the log lock. Wonder if your’s is an earlier model?
I’ve thought about reverse engineering them, then have local amish welding shop take care of that (a few hours of welding and I quickly lose interest). However with today’s sue happy society making them stupid proof would be near impossible.
Here’s mine, I have taken that rotary valve apart for the bar and rebuilt it. Built an arbor to VERY carefully press the brass bushing out, it’s extremely thin walled and the housing is only aluminum. I turned a new bushing and pressed back into place with a generous dollop of sleeve lock on it. I turned a new shaft from cold rolled steel and cut two o-ring grooves in it instead of the original one, any other machining that needed done was in my Bridgeport. New rotary valves can be had yet, a company in the UK makes em and they do have distributors here in the states. I added the return spring to it as the internal one busted and is not to be had anywhere.
Heres how mine is set up, I still have the button for the saw, but have a momentary on toggle for the jaw and a maintained toggle thats ON/OFF/ON for the splitter. The toggle that doesn’t self return to center is how I get some of the automatic action. Top toggle is the jaw, bottom toggle is the splitter.
Like this is a maintained:
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/SPDT-CO-TOGGLE-SWITCH-20-AMPS-11-3218.axd