Print

[R W Ohio]

Lugnut, By this time next year you will be the Shaver go to man for anyone with questions about a Shaver.Good luck with your upgrades.
RW

[lugnut]

Lugnut, By this time next year you will be the Shaver go to man for anyone with questions about a Shaver.Good luck with your upgrades.
RW

LOL!!!  RW, I feel with all the info I've been getting from the guys on here, I will be an expert.  I will also know by then who NOT to talk to at Shaver.  As I mentioned to a gentleman on here a day or so ago, the money I saved on buying the Shaver, I can now use to make improvements to and otherwise simple design, but the improvements WILL make it more efficient.  right now, I just WANT my creosote issues and black slime issues to go far away....but that won't happen until Shaver sends me the CORRECT blower with the 75 CFMs!

I am making a note of everything I've learned and have been suggested to do.  So yes,  I then will be able to help someone else who may have questions.  As I mentioned in my of other posts...I CAN get more honest and direct responses on this website to ANY question I have either regarding Shaver or just OWB in general than I can FROM "Shaver."  and this is is quite sad.

Hey y'all have an awesome weekend and keep feeding the fire and laughing at the utility company.   

Lugnut

[beeman]

here is mine

[Scott7m]

Hey bee man, the whole where the hook goes through the flap is plenty big enough to cause your stove to boil over and use more wood.  Try to attach it to the flap brace or something on top.

[lugnut]

Trying to figure out how Shaver can charge $125.00 for their auto damper?  I received one that I "supposedly" ordered when I upgraded to a Shaver 250 from a 165.  This thing is a piece of garbage.  I swear they have NO quality control there at all. Just grab up some flat plate, cut out a circle or something that resembles a circle and then take the disc that is the cut out and weld a hinge onto it, but let's make sure that the hinge is not flat...so I have this auto damper that when the temperature is met, the flap is "supposed" to close and cut off ALL air to the furnace right?  Welp, not with this piece of crap.  There is at least a 1/16" gap around the entire hole in the plate...and it has little welding gobs on it.  the flap does NOT close down tight.   

So like I asked, where do they get off charging $125.00 for junk?  When I can go on the Alternative heating website and bought the solenoid and flapper for under $50.00!!!   

Lugnut

Figured it out...the auto damper does NOT cost $125.00....it's the entire assembly...blower motor AND auto damper.  Still I would like to say the fabrication of their auto dampers is junk.  The solenoids are store bought, but that's when it goes down hill.  Shame one has to "re-fabricate" something that should just have to be fastened to the motor and go.   

Lugnut

[Sconnieman]

Hey lugnut, what alternative heating website are you talking about? I am looking for auto dampers for my stove also, not a shaver, but need the same thing for my blower fans. $50 sounds like a good price.

[gandgracing]

Hey bee man, the whole where the hook goes through the flap is plenty big enough to cause your stove to boil over and use more wood.  Try to attach it to the flap brace or something on top.

It kind of looks like a nut welded to the top of the flap with the hook thru it.  Thats how I did mine too.

[mikenc]

here is mine

Beeman mine has a rubber gasket on bottom to help make a good seal. Will try to post pic

[Scott7m]

I see that now!  Thanks

[lugnut]

Hey lugnut, what alternative heating website are you talking about? I am looking for auto dampers for my stove also, not a shaver, but need the same thing for my blower fans. $50 sounds like a good price.

Here is the website:  www.altheatsupply.com  do a search on their site for "blower motors."  I think the least expensive I saw was $57.00 or so.

[Sconnieman]

Here is the website:  www.altheatsupply.com  do a search on their site for "blower motors."  I think the least expensive I saw was $57.00 or so.

Ok so do I just need this http://www.altheatsupply.com/models-546-4400-fan-cover.html and this http://www.altheatsupply.com/laminated-solenoid.html then, or do I need more parts to get it running.

Thanks,
Andy

[beeman]

mikenc i realey  like it did you put it on or was it bought

[Sconnieman]

Beeman mine has a rubber gasket on bottom to help make a good seal. Will try to post pic

mikenc can you post a picture of how you have your solenoid mounted? I just ordered the rubber flap and solenoid that I linked to above and I'm looking for ideas on how to mount it. Thanks!

Andy

[BoilerHouse]

Thanks for the link lugnut.  It's just like being in a candy store.

[church]

My 165 I had first had the 50 cfm blower and my 250 has a 75 cfm fan

Been following this discussion and had some thoughts come to mind:
The 165 comes with a 50 cfm blower with a slide damper for blower air control during off cycle, keeping the fire to a minimum to prevent boiling during off cycle and yet open enough for adequate fire during call for heat.
When ordering the soleniod / damper upgrade, the blower is increased to 75 cfm.
The 250 comes with a 75 cfm blower, ( standard ? ), with or w/out damper upgrade ( ? ).
The increase in blower cfm on the 165 is for ease of installation of damper upgrade when ordering such option.
Thoughts,
1 ) Wouldn't the increase in the blower cfm create a possible overfiring situation ?
2 ) Increased wood consumption ?
3 ) Creating more of a water "hot spot" then conditioning more of the volume of water during a less intense burn cycle ?
4 ) Wouldn't controlling the air flow also contribute to effeciency ? Blower speed controller or slide damper installed along with damper ?
I understand the use of a damper to shut down air flow during off cycle, ( natural draft stoppage ).
Just some thoughts, looking for other opinions and insights.
I understand there are a lot variables when it comes to getting the most out of burning your wood, just looking to get the most from the least.
Thanks,
Church