Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: Chevydmax6 on July 14, 2019, 07:43:45 PM
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Hello i am looking at purchasing a g200 does anybody no if there are any rebates or epa grants for ohio before i pull the trigger in the next couple of days
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What part of Northern Ohio? Contact Scott Sloan at Heartland Energy if your anywhere near Stryker Ohio.
https://www.heartlandenergyusa.net/
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He is a couple hrs away from me
I have a dealer about 30mins from me that has been great in answering any questions and will pick ul the phone anytime i call or text
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Hello when wiring the furance i am wanting to use 2 thermostats one for boiler and one for the back up heat does anybody have a wire diagram for this
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Do you care about the fan only setting to work and to you have A/C? If you don't use it, or don't have A/c it is much simpler to wire.
If you do use the fan only setting and want to use it in the winter, you will not be able to let the water always circulate through the heat exchanger.
To wire up with the fan option disabled, run a jumper wire from the original thermostat RH terminal to the RH in the 2nd thermostat. If both thermostats have C used then run a jumper between those terminals on both thermostats.
Then remove the wire from the G terminal and add a piece of wire to it and run that to the W in the new thermostat.
If you do want to use the fan only setting but only in the summer, you can leave the wire on the G terminal and run a jumper wire from it to the W on the 2nd thermostat. You will probably have to shut off the breaker to the A/C in the winter to keep it from running.
If you want to keep the fan only option and not have to turn off the a/c you will need to wire in a relay.
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If you could post a picture of the original thermostat with the cover off (so we can see the wires) and a picture of the wiring in the air handler then we could give more accurate instructions.
I would usually add a relay, but you might not have to as RSI said.
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I will get some pics tonight when i get home
As for the fan only option i dont use that
If the boiler water is not up to heat and the stat calls for heat will the fan just run untill the backup heat stat calls for heat to fire the backup source
I have neen heating with wood for about 7yrs with a indoor unit and i will set my propane furnace at 60 just incase but it never runs so i feel i may not even need the propane furnace but it will be nice to have as back up
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You can also use an aquastat. If boiler temp drops then the furnace runs as normal instead of having to wait for the house temp to drop
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You can also use an aquastat. If boiler temp drops then the furnace runs as normal instead of having to wait for the house temp to drop
This is what i was going to do but i dont want the propane furance to run all the time if the fire goes out
Here are the pics that E YODER as for
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You can also use an aquastat. If boiler temp drops then the furnace runs as normal instead of having to wait for the house temp to drop
This is what i was going to do but i dont want the propane furance to run all the time if the fire goes out
All the more incentive to not let it go out.
I set em at 140 usually, above that just the fan, below that furnace runs as normal, you could go lower than that if desired.
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Now that I see what you have, I can write more simple instructions.
1: Add another wire into the R terminal that will reach the R in the new thermostat.
2: Remove wire from G and run that wire to W in new thermostat. (probably need to extend to reach)
That is it.
New thermostat will need to be battery powered like the one in the picture. If it is not, it will have a C terminal that will need a wire all the way to the furnace. If you end up needing that, I would check to make sure there aren't spares in the cable that aren't used.
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You have a blue wire that is not being used, at least in the pick on the furnace end, and is probably in the wall behind the face of existing Tstat. I would suggest putting in a relay and powering it with the w on the new stat. The existing thermostat is probably using the G to power the fan in AC mode. Adding a aquastat would allow you to denergize the W on the new stat when the boiler temp drops and potentially the gas kicks in.
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This is all starting to make sense
So when the boiler stat calls for her and there is no heat there to blow will the blower keep running till the back up stat calls for heat
I want to set me boiler at 74
And my back up heat to 60
My house holds heat pretty good so it could take hours before the backup is needed
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It will unless you add the aquastat
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Well the g200 got delivered and i got most of the underground pipe installed i am going to be starting the inside plumbing in the next day or so my dealer says he runs to the furnace first then to dhw and i have talkes to others that say run to dhw first
I understand the reason behide both sides just looking for a little more info to help me desie which way to go
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DHW first always then the furnace. You can get a little warm air out of 120 degree water, you won’t be getting any hot water from it though. DHW is the biggest although temporary load you have, biggest load first then the next lower load which would be the furnace HX.
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I would agree. You won't like fluctuating shower temps but slightly changing air temps while using hot water is no big deal.
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DHW first !!
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Ok i have desided to do dhw first
On the furance my dealer said to use the bottom for the in
But i have talked to people and they recommend to use the top of it for in cause u want the air to leave the hottest part last which make since
Thanks for all the info and clearing thing up for me
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It'll heat either way but I try to pump into the side where the air exits. This makes the hottest air. Pumping in the bottom purges the air out the easiest tho.
Which brings me to another suggestion, especially if you push down through the hot air coil, plumb in a fill valve at the water heater and use it to blast the air out of the coil and lines. Otherwise it can take a bit to purge out using the pump on the stove.
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Like Eldon said, you want the air leaving to see the hottest water last( incoming water). Air shouldn’t be to much of an issue to purge out by closing the return water valve at the boiler for 2-3 seconds while the pump is running and then quickly opening it. You repeat this until you don’t hear any more air bubbling back to the boiler.
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I think I think about air purging more than most. Probably because we have such rough terrain and the stove can sometimes be much lower than a high point somewhere in the piping. Then air gets "hung" in the high spot.
Anyway, just a side note.
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Ok i have been working on the insatll i got the rhinoflex installed the back of the stove is hooked up and i have pex ran in the basement to the hot water tank i will be running 1" copper from there to tie the furnace and dhw in to finish the basement install sunday
The stove is about 10' above the furance plus i am puting in a boiler drain valve in the basement so i can take my water sample from there plus i will start to fill the stove there and push the air out to the stove
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Here are some pics of the install i am doing
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What do you think of the Rhinoflex? I have a couple rolls of it on order but haven't seen any in person yet.
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It does not bend easy but i never used anything else so i cant compare it