Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: Line hand on December 17, 2014, 06:28:02 PM
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What do y'all like/recommend
What is the likes and dislikes of a heatmaster I really like this unit
Thanks
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Do research, most of us wood burners who have a furnace will tell you that the furnace they have is the best, it's what you prefer. I love my Earth Mt. Man 500, it's simple and easy to use and maintain!!! Bottom line is don't go cheap on the underground pex like I did because I replaced it and it cost me a lot of money and headache's!!! Whichever OWF you decide to go with I would install LOGSTOR, once I replaced my setup what a difference!!!
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I did a lot of research and reading on this site and the net. I looked at most of owf brands in the area. I decided on the heatmaster 5000. So far I love it.
As far as why I chose it were personal likes. Wanted 409 stainless. Full length shaker grates. Ash pan. And a draft fan.
Do a lot of research look at as many brands as you can. If you know people that have one talk to them on their likes and dislikes on the model they have.
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Scarface is spot on!!!!! Logstor is the important part of the equasion. OWB brands are more for personal preference, they all burn wood, check out how the manufacturer resolves issues in the field, some have a terrible record of service after they cash your check and others rely heavily on customer referrals in order to sell more units, you don't get referrals by not answering the phone whenever there is an issue!
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Love my BL 2840 :thumbup:
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No issues with my Woodmaster either. I have dealer about 10 miles from me who stocks a lot of parts and is easy to talk to.
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Where are you located, Line hand? and what type of area are you planning on heating?
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I'm in tha south northwest Alabama to be exact around 3700 sq ft all electric
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Went and looked at central boiler today and I think I have decided to go with a 6048 y'all chime in please
A question I have is I have two three ton units and two hot water heaters approximately 140 ft to the house from my boiler then another 70ft to the other side of the house my dealer told me all I need is 1 run of 1" pex pipe to work all of this.... Will this be suffient???? Or am I gonna have to run two runs of pipe to my house then from there branch one pex to my first unit and hot water tank then the other run for the other side of my house please reply
Thank you all for your recommendations in advance
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I would take a longer look at the Portage & Main BL 3444 or the BL 4444 more energy transfer to the water through the exhaust plus the boiler is made to take apart the 6048 runs a stack temp close to 500 degrees
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Lot of good posts. As Slim says, they all burn wood. However, the heat has to get from point A (OWB) to point B (house). THIS is where you want to take a hard look at performance. As it was explained to me, the LOGSTOR will be the cheapest pipe I purchase. Made sense to me. This product is not cheap, but I believe in researching and doing something once. I do like the design and performance of my 2840. Other brands are also well manufactured. Do your research and stay warm....
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I ran a 6048 for 3 years. Sold it 2 months ago and put in a P&M BL 3444. They are entirely different animals. The CB is a great unit, but it's gonna burn more wood than some other units. I don't keep track of wood usage, but I use less per fill now and it makes it 12 hrs. I haven't slammed it full yet to see how many hrs I could get. I miss the big door on the CB, you could roll just about anything in there. I have to do a lot more splitting now, but it's less strenuous loading it.
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I ran a 6048 for 3 years. Sold it 2 months ago and put in a P&M BL 3444. They are entirely different animals. The CB is a great unit, but it's gonna burn more wood than some other units. I don't keep track of wood usage, but I use less per fill now and it makes it 12 hrs. I haven't slammed it full yet to see how many hrs I could get. I miss the big door on the CB, you could roll just about anything in there. I have to do a lot more splitting now, but it's less strenuous loading it.
I came out to look at your boiler when you first got it. You are right about them being a whole different animal. Once you get the hang of how they run they are very neat. Once that air comes on there is almost instant fire. Almost like propane under the fire.
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Do it right the first time. An extra couple thousand now will pay off very fast. Bury good line,bury it deep. Make sure you have a good dealer close. I like my Heatmaster but that's all I've had. Again,do everything right the first time.
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That's another reason I was gonna use central boiler my dealer is not but about an hour away and there is not a lot of options in Alabama can anyone give me a definite on the pipe question???
I am not going cheap especially on pipe I just need to know for sure that one run will do what I talked about in the post yesterday
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No issues with my HM 10,000e. In fact it's better than I imagined.
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I'm no expert and there are a lot of variables, but I would think it would be safer to run just one set of 1 1/4" lines.
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Thanks for the replies guys I wished someone with experience would give me more detail on the piping before I spend $1500.00 on pipe that isen't going to work
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1 inch Logstor is 1 inch inside diameter, all other North American pipe is nominally sized, meaning nominally sized 1 inch is only point 82 inches inside diameter, 1 inch logstor will be fine, if you go with CB's pipe then I think I would use the 1 1/4
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Does it matter what size your ports are one the stove? Meaning will it do any any good to go any bigger than the supply and return provided on your stove? I'm not sure what th 5000 is fitted with bi I'm guessing 1" or 1.25". I'm not into physics but just a thought.
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Any reduction in resistance helps, some manufacturers seem to like to restrict flow right at the boiler in order to create turbulence inside the water jacket not sure if that works but I also am not into physics.
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Do any of u guys know my cheapest price on 1.25 logstor a ft. ???
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Let people say what they will but I would look at thermopex. Might be able to save a couple bucks a foot. I run 200' with zero heat loss...zero.
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Very happy owner of a Woodmaster 4400. It's the bomb! Can't go wrong with Woodmaster products!
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My dad has the CB 6048 and my grandpa has the CB 5036. They seem to be good units but my dad and grandpa have to go out and fill there stoves at 9 or 10 at night when it gets cold out to get them through the morning. And there water temp is still down by morning. They also seem to burn more wood and and ash removal is a pain.. I fill mine around 5-6pm and don't have to worry about it until morning. I still got all my parts from a central boiler dealer (since they are right down the road). There is nothing to these stove that you need a dealer close by. Just from my opinion, portage and maine makes a better product. Research central boiler leaks, then search portage and Maine boiler leaks.. You will see what I'm talking about ..
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Let people say what they will but I would look at thermopex. Might be able to save a couple bucks a foot. I run 200' with zero heat loss...zero.
I get that you believe in thermopex but zero is not possible and I know everyone will agree with that.
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Keep coming with comments I really appreciate it guys
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I just installed my central 6048 after yrs of issues with other brands not keeping up with demand I can't say anything but good about the cl6048 heating my 4200 sqft 14-16 hr burn times at 74 deg I luv it..
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I have thermopex in the ground about 100 feet from the house. I have a temp gauge at the boiler and one when it comes in the house and it is only down about 1/2 degree. So I could see zero heat loss at 200 feet. Heck your gauge could be off a couple of degrees from your other one.
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These are the four I have decided on
1 portage and Maine (Carbon)
2 heat master. (Stainless)
3 central boiler (Carbon)
4 hardy (Stainless)
I'm more than likely going to shutdown during the summer months if this helps
Feel free to help me decide :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:
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My suggestion is, get out and see these things in action if you can; i.e. different makes, different models, etc... and see how they are connected to their existing system and make a decision based on that information. Everyone on here will have an opinion based on their make and model and if they had any trouble with it. Personally I love my Central Boiler E-Classic 1400. I experienced a minor hiccup a couple of months into my first year operating it (this is my 4th winter with it) but that was due to laziness on my part and not being attentive. Since then no problems at all. Essentially it comes down to the age old argument, which is better, Ford, Chevy, etc... everyone has their opinions. Good luck in your search. Remember one thing, you will not be paying out big dollars for oil or propane regardless of which unit you decide to purchase. Have a Merry Christmas! Roger
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One of the top three you mentioned all good stoves.
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Good advise Roger! Also, i would recommend deciding what kind of features you are looking for in a stove and it will make your decision a lot easier. Do you want natural draft or forced draft? Stainless or regular steel? The ability to burn coal if you choose to down the road and I would also look through the different sections on this site and see what the owners of these stoves have to say about their experience. Good luck in your decision, I know it can be hard!
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Thanks to All of you and MerryChristmas
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Thanks to All of you and MerryChristmas
Chrerry Mistmas and Nappy Hew Year to all!
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If you can try to see them working in similar situations as your .. Those were key things that made my decision you can't beat seeing them in person while working..
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I have a Ridgewood. I feel that they are one of the highest bang-for-the-buck stove on the market. Very basic, they heat water, period. I'm a simple guy, I like simple stuff.
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Ok guys I've almost decided on heatmaster 5000
Give me input on shaver & ridge wood
Stainless to last ????????
Carbon for heat transfer??????????
I really like heatmaster especially for the price I'm getting quoted
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Everyone seems to be very happy with their Ridgewood stoves. But here is something to consider. What will happen to Ridgewood when the new regulations are enforced? I doubt they will be able to make it in the industry as it takes a lot of money and testing to produce a stove that will meet the new requirements. This will only be an issue if you ever had to use your warranty. If the company doesn't exist then they can't stand behind their warranty. Heatmaster already builds a stove that nearly meets the new standards. After the new regs are passed I am sure they will be one of the few companies that will still be around.
As far as stainless vs mild steel goes, I'm a fan of the stainless stoves. Stainless boilers can be built thinner than carbon steel stoves which is better for heat transfer. Not to mention better resistance to corrosion that stainless provides.
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Actually, I think Heatmaster has 3 units that have great numbers and are EPA qualified
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Y'all are awesome heatmaster is what I have been leaning toward
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First year with my heatmaster got a lot of excellent info off this site to do my install like many have said don't short cut on Urd pipe i used rehau was 10.50 ft one of the better purchases ihave made got about 8600 invested good luck on what ever u decide seems to be about 6-8 pretty good performing owb on this site along with home fabricated if your that talented and there are some very talented folks on this site again good luck
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So did you make a choice yet?
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Love my Heatmaster MF5000 will burn any thing I put in it, 100 ft. of rehau pipe the good stuff awesome burn times at 0 degrees 12 to 16 hours heat 1800 sq ft. home with super never ending HOT WATER! LOVE IT,LOVE IT, LOVE IT.
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Stainless has several advantages, low corrosion, excellent heat transfer no matter the thickness. But also has several drawbacks, if you need field repairs can be very difficult to find a competent welder that is willing to on site welding of stainless. A good MIG machine can weld stainless but preferred method is TIG.
Going on fifteen years with my mild steel boiler, have some corrosion at the door flange and exhaust exit but those were design flaws on my part.
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Stainless has several advantages, low corrosion, excellent heat transfer no matter the thickness. But also has several drawbacks, if you need field repairs can be very difficult to find a competent welder that is willing to on site welding of stainless. A good MIG machine can weld stainless but preferred method is TIG.
Going on fifteen years with my mild steel boiler, have some corrosion at the door flange and exhaust exit but those were design flaws on my part that will be addressed on my next build.
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Heatmaster. Heatmaster heatmaster is what keeps coming to mind