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Messages - Amankman

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1
It usually stops my blower soleniod from buzzing.

/sigh

a buzzing solenoid doesn't mean a thing unless it's right next to your bedroom window. Solenoids will vibrate 60 times a second unless you're in a country that uses 50 hertz then it's 50 times a second. Mines been buzzing since day one, that was almost fifteen years ago. While annoying, it doesn't indicate pending solenoid failure.
I've found that fine sand paper or emry cloth ran where the solenoid makes contact quiets it right down!

2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: "Time to load" indicator
« on: February 05, 2015, 01:52:33 PM »
Chas, how did you get readout in the house?  Did you tag off the Aquastat?

3
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Up and running
« on: January 03, 2015, 05:57:24 AM »
Sounds like you got it  is your house warm? Lol
Yes! House is warm and all the hot water I want, no propane! Shut the breaker off on the water heater also. Love this setup!

4
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Up and running
« on: January 02, 2015, 02:26:51 PM »
Running 175deg set point with 8deg differential, draft door opens at 167 and took 18 minutes to recover at 25 degrees outside. How am I doing? First time owner/operator.

5
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Re: Forced Air Option
« on: December 31, 2014, 02:40:48 PM »
I don't have any issues with just the natural draft, it works fine for me.  I do think that adding the fan option is a good idea though...... give the customers what they want if they want it.  What I would like to see is a setting on the controller that would close the draft door once the stove drops below a low set point, say around 140, to help preserve the coals and heat that are left if you happen to be away for a while or forget to load it. I have a snap disc switch (set to open at 145 degrees) on the copper just before the water to air HX that kills the power to the thermostat that runs the fan in the furnace so it won't deplete all the heat in the water. It basically does the same thing as a Central Boiler thermostatic valve. Then the furnace thermostat takes over when the house drops below 65.

Chas, if you put a 140 disk at the boiler and put it in line with the coil for the draft door, you would have what you want, closed under 140.

6
RidgeWood Stoves, defunct, support only / Up and running
« on: December 31, 2014, 02:33:55 PM »
THANKS! To all the great info on this site! I have my system (self install) up and running, DHW and furnace coils each has by-pass options for repair and cleaning thanks to reading that info on here. Also have strainers installed for derbies. Only thing I wish I would have done is install a loop to by-pass all indoor plumbing incase I need to make a repair and not shutdown the boiler, never picked that out on anyone's drawings.
Thanks again all!
Happy New Years!!!!  :thumbup:

7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Up and running
« on: December 31, 2014, 02:27:45 PM »
THANKS! To all the great info on this site! I have my system (self install) up and running, DHW and furnace coils each has by-pass options for repair and cleaning thanks to reading that info on here. Also have strainers installed for derbies. Only thing I wish I would have done is install a loop to by-pass all indoor plumbing incase I need to make a repair and not shutdown the boiler, never picked that out on anyone's drawings.
Thanks again all!
Happy New Years!!!! :thumbup:

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