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61
Plumbing / Re: Keep your baseboard plumbing a closed system!
« on: January 15, 2009, 05:12:01 PM »
Another eye opener is stagnate water pockets!
You have to maintain circulation in your open system all the time to prevent pockets of stagnate water from forming. Inside these pockets corrosive electrolytic loops can activate right on the metal plating. These tiny corrosive reactions are virtually isolated from any boiler treatment or anodes you may have installed and if not broken by some level of circulation can eat a neat little hole straight threw the plate.
Do any of these dealers tell you that in the off season (summer) you still have to maintain circulation in your boiler and lines?
Am I right here or what!
You have to maintain circulation in your open system all the time to prevent pockets of stagnate water from forming. Inside these pockets corrosive electrolytic loops can activate right on the metal plating. These tiny corrosive reactions are virtually isolated from any boiler treatment or anodes you may have installed and if not broken by some level of circulation can eat a neat little hole straight threw the plate.
Do any of these dealers tell you that in the off season (summer) you still have to maintain circulation in your boiler and lines?
Am I right here or what!
62
Plumbing / Corrosion Problems!
« on: January 06, 2009, 09:50:39 AM »
Oh Man!
Can anybody give a straight answer on this!
I have had two stainless steel Wood Doctors corrode threw in under 5 years!!!
-I'm putting the Wood Doctor boiler treatment in regularly monitoring to maintain good PH as advised!
-I got the entire unit grounded as advised!
-I even placed a standard Hot Water tank anode in my system before I was advised . . . I was a step ahead of the game here! I shouldn't even need an anode, as black iron, I have been informed by a chemical engineer, is sacrificial to stainless steel and therefore should corrode away first! My anode is really there to protect my black iron!
-Piping examples provided when I purchased the furnace show black iron piping so this can't be wrong!
-It looks to me that the welding method used to build my Wood Doctor in the first place may have altered the stainless Steel making it susceptible to corrosion along the weld lines!!
What's going on?
Can anybody give a straight answer on this!
I have had two stainless steel Wood Doctors corrode threw in under 5 years!!!
-I'm putting the Wood Doctor boiler treatment in regularly monitoring to maintain good PH as advised!
-I got the entire unit grounded as advised!
-I even placed a standard Hot Water tank anode in my system before I was advised . . . I was a step ahead of the game here! I shouldn't even need an anode, as black iron, I have been informed by a chemical engineer, is sacrificial to stainless steel and therefore should corrode away first! My anode is really there to protect my black iron!
-Piping examples provided when I purchased the furnace show black iron piping so this can't be wrong!
-It looks to me that the welding method used to build my Wood Doctor in the first place may have altered the stainless Steel making it susceptible to corrosion along the weld lines!!
What's going on?
63
Plumbing / Keep your baseboard plumbing a closed system!
« on: January 06, 2009, 09:35:36 AM »
Hey,
I hashed my heating system out with a Kerr Controls heating specialist and decided to plumb my house just as if I was going to install a oil fired hot water heating system!
Only difference was, I put a very very small (5"x10"x4" roughly) copper flat plate heat exchanger right where that oil furnace should have been. One side of my highly efficient heat exchanger is a closed system at 12 lbs pressure I believe and the other side of my heat exchanger is my open Wood Doctor system!
See attached Picture - 1" copper lines in and out
I have absolutely no problems heating the basement, where my Wood Doctor lines come in, as well as the 1st and 2nd floors of my house!
I hashed my heating system out with a Kerr Controls heating specialist and decided to plumb my house just as if I was going to install a oil fired hot water heating system!
Only difference was, I put a very very small (5"x10"x4" roughly) copper flat plate heat exchanger right where that oil furnace should have been. One side of my highly efficient heat exchanger is a closed system at 12 lbs pressure I believe and the other side of my heat exchanger is my open Wood Doctor system!
See attached Picture - 1" copper lines in and out
I have absolutely no problems heating the basement, where my Wood Doctor lines come in, as well as the 1st and 2nd floors of my house!
64
Plumbing / Watch that Circ Pump!
« on: January 06, 2009, 09:23:17 AM »
Hey,
I discussed my setup with a heating specialist at Kerr Controls who did some research which lead him to believe that a lot of people were installing wet rotor circ pumps on the backs of their outdoor wood furnaces and these were burning out quite readily due to the head pressure not being what the pumps were designed for. The lower head pressure was causing the pumps to cavitate and burn out. He suggested I use a dry rotor pump to avoid this problem and it has worked well for me! Of course these pumps cost more!
I discussed my setup with a heating specialist at Kerr Controls who did some research which lead him to believe that a lot of people were installing wet rotor circ pumps on the backs of their outdoor wood furnaces and these were burning out quite readily due to the head pressure not being what the pumps were designed for. The lower head pressure was causing the pumps to cavitate and burn out. He suggested I use a dry rotor pump to avoid this problem and it has worked well for me! Of course these pumps cost more!
65
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Mixing valve Questions?
« on: January 05, 2009, 11:04:43 AM »
I have a post up (under plumbing) for a home-made heat syphon tube that uses a mixing valve to shut off the syphon when domestic hot water is called for!
Got pics up too! Have a boo at this application!
Got pics up too! Have a boo at this application!
66
Plumbing / Re: pluming for hot water & furnace
« on: January 05, 2009, 11:00:14 AM »
What are you using for a heat syphon on your domestic hot water?
I have a post in for a home-made tube syphon!
I have a post in for a home-made tube syphon!
67
Plumbing / Home-made Hot Water Tank Tube Heat Syphon
« on: January 05, 2009, 10:55:00 AM »
I have thrown together a straight tube heat syphon for my domestic hot water tank!
This syphon consists of a 4' 1.5" black iron pipe with a 3/4" copper pipe (tube) going straight up the center of it. At each end of my black iron pipe I have a 1.5 " female threaded black iron "T" reducing down at the top using a 1.5" male threaded to 1" female threaded black iron sleeve, then a copper 1" male threaded to 1" female soldered, then a copper 1" female to 3/4" female soldered onto my 3/4" copper tube.
Coming off at 90 degrees on each of these 1.5 " female threaded black iron "T" (top and bottom) I am reducing down using a 1.5" male threaded to 3/4" female threaded black iron sleeve and then a brass 3/4" threaded male to 3/4" compression fitting for the Kitec pipe from my Wood Doctor.
This setup heats my domestic hot water very quickly, but I found that the finishing touch was a mixing valve installed at the top to prevent cold water from the bottom of my tank from surging up threw the syphon and cooling the hot water leaving the top of my tanks every time I opened a hot-water tap!
I installed my mixing valve with the hot side capped and the cold side delivering hot water! Now, when cold water rushes up my syphon, the valve shuts down allowing 100% hot water to be delivered when called for!
No advise was provided by the Wood Doctor Dealer on any of this!
********Hey Somebody tell me how to put a picture of my syphon here********
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
This syphon consists of a 4' 1.5" black iron pipe with a 3/4" copper pipe (tube) going straight up the center of it. At each end of my black iron pipe I have a 1.5 " female threaded black iron "T" reducing down at the top using a 1.5" male threaded to 1" female threaded black iron sleeve, then a copper 1" male threaded to 1" female soldered, then a copper 1" female to 3/4" female soldered onto my 3/4" copper tube.
Coming off at 90 degrees on each of these 1.5 " female threaded black iron "T" (top and bottom) I am reducing down using a 1.5" male threaded to 3/4" female threaded black iron sleeve and then a brass 3/4" threaded male to 3/4" compression fitting for the Kitec pipe from my Wood Doctor.
This setup heats my domestic hot water very quickly, but I found that the finishing touch was a mixing valve installed at the top to prevent cold water from the bottom of my tank from surging up threw the syphon and cooling the hot water leaving the top of my tanks every time I opened a hot-water tap!
I installed my mixing valve with the hot side capped and the cold side delivering hot water! Now, when cold water rushes up my syphon, the valve shuts down allowing 100% hot water to be delivered when called for!
No advise was provided by the Wood Doctor Dealer on any of this!
********Hey Somebody tell me how to put a picture of my syphon here********
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
68
Heatmor / The Heatmor Warranty?
« on: January 04, 2009, 02:02:19 PM »
Would Heatmor request that an entire 2000 lbs furnace be retured to them for acessment?
Would Heatmor consider an entire 2000 lbs furnace a "part" that they could request be returned for repair?
Would Heatmor consider an entire 2000 lbs furnace a "part" that they could request be returned for repair?
69
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster
« on: January 04, 2009, 01:57:25 PM »
Would your company request that an entire 2000 lbs furnace be retured to them for acessment?
Would your company consider an entire 2000 lbs furnace a "part" that you could request be returned for repair?
Would your company consider an entire 2000 lbs furnace a "part" that you could request be returned for repair?
70
Wood Doctor / Patching those holes in my Wood Doctor!
« on: January 04, 2009, 01:44:01 PM »
I have found that High Temperature Five Minute Epoxy Putty works well sealing the perforations in my stainless Steel Wood Doctor furnace. The trick though is to apply the Putty using a reversed cabinet clamp so that you can get enough pressure to seal off the water leak and at the same time get good adhesion to the metal.
You can't just push this Putty on with your hand and expect it to hold! The first ones I just pushed on leaked and pealed off again!
Cut a square of memory foam and place it over the Putty against the boiler and then push the memory foam almost flat against the side of the boiler until the Putty hardens. After, just peal it off and you're ready to apply another patch.
My Wood Doctor boiler is littered with patches now and they seem like they might hold till spring now that I have applied them with pressure! Hopefully this will get me threw, this, only my forth heating season!
Who knew stainless steel could corrode threw like this!!
You can't just push this Putty on with your hand and expect it to hold! The first ones I just pushed on leaked and pealed off again!
Cut a square of memory foam and place it over the Putty against the boiler and then push the memory foam almost flat against the side of the boiler until the Putty hardens. After, just peal it off and you're ready to apply another patch.
My Wood Doctor boiler is littered with patches now and they seem like they might hold till spring now that I have applied them with pressure! Hopefully this will get me threw, this, only my forth heating season!
Who knew stainless steel could corrode threw like this!!
71
Wood Doctor / Wood Doctor Warranty!
« on: January 04, 2009, 01:27:05 PM »
Have you notices the phrase in your Wood Doctor warranty, "on site or at our factories"? 
Returning "a part" to the factory when requested by Wood Doctor may not seem like a biggy, but what if Wood Doctor considers "the part" to be your entire furnace and what if "the factory" is in Manitoba?
I am the not so proud owner of my second 2000 lbs stainless steel exterior wood furnace. My original furnace developed perforations in it's belly causing it to loose all it's water in only it's second heating season. I managed to make it to spring by holding vigilance over ten or so pine plugs hammered into the holes to stop the leaks!
This first boiler was promptly replaced under warranty by Wood Doctor at virtually no cost to me.
This replacement stainless steel boiler has now just barely made it threw it's third heating season this time developing perforations primarily along the belly weld lines!
My original furnace has a 25 year warranty covering repairs at 100% for the first 5 years. I am still within the first 5 years of my warranty and have had two of these boilers corrode out on me.
This time around though, Wood Doctor is exercising a phrase in it's warranty which they believe gives them the right to request that I ship my entire furnace half way across the country for assessment to repaired or replaced rather then they send someone local to fix it. It is simply ludicrous to me that they believe they can interpret their warranty in this way, making it, in fact, no warranty at all! Their interpretation is essentially that an entire 2000 lbs furnace is a "part" that they can request be returned to them for repair!
I've stuck epoxy putty over all the holes in my Wood Doctor and put it back online for this heating season, but I have no idea how long it will be able to hold water! I do not seem to have much choice at present!
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
Returning "a part" to the factory when requested by Wood Doctor may not seem like a biggy, but what if Wood Doctor considers "the part" to be your entire furnace and what if "the factory" is in Manitoba?
I am the not so proud owner of my second 2000 lbs stainless steel exterior wood furnace. My original furnace developed perforations in it's belly causing it to loose all it's water in only it's second heating season. I managed to make it to spring by holding vigilance over ten or so pine plugs hammered into the holes to stop the leaks!
This first boiler was promptly replaced under warranty by Wood Doctor at virtually no cost to me.
This replacement stainless steel boiler has now just barely made it threw it's third heating season this time developing perforations primarily along the belly weld lines!
My original furnace has a 25 year warranty covering repairs at 100% for the first 5 years. I am still within the first 5 years of my warranty and have had two of these boilers corrode out on me.
This time around though, Wood Doctor is exercising a phrase in it's warranty which they believe gives them the right to request that I ship my entire furnace half way across the country for assessment to repaired or replaced rather then they send someone local to fix it. It is simply ludicrous to me that they believe they can interpret their warranty in this way, making it, in fact, no warranty at all! Their interpretation is essentially that an entire 2000 lbs furnace is a "part" that they can request be returned to them for repair!
I've stuck epoxy putty over all the holes in my Wood Doctor and put it back online for this heating season, but I have no idea how long it will be able to hold water! I do not seem to have much choice at present!
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
72
Wood Doctor / Re: Anyone have a Wood Doctor?
« on: January 04, 2009, 01:11:37 PM »
I am having a lot of problems with my stainless Steel Wood Doctor! 
I am the not so proud owner of my second 2000 lbs stainless steel exterior wood furnace. My original furnace developed perforations in it's belly causing it to loose all it's water in only it's second heating season. I managed to make it to spring by holding vigilance over ten or so pine plugs hammered into the holes to stop the leaks!
This first boiler was promptly replaced under warranty by Wood Doctor at virtually no cost to me.
This replacement stainless steel boiler has now just barely made it threw it's third heating season this time developing perforations primarily along the belly weld lines!
My original furnace has a 25 year warranty covering repairs at 100% for the first 5 years. I am still within the first 5 years of my warranty and have had two of these boilers corrode out on me.
This time around though, Wood Doctor is exercising a phrase in it's warranty which they believe gives them the right to request that I ship my entire furnace half way across the country for assessment to repaired or replaced rather then they alow someone local to fix it.
It is simply ludicrous to me that they believe they can interpret their warranty in this way, making it, in fact, no warranty at all! Their interpretation is essentially that an entire 2000 lbs furnace is a "part" that they can request be returned to them for repair!
I've stuck epoxy putty over all the holes in my Wood Doctor and put it back online for this heating season, but I have no idea how long it will be able to hold water! I do not seem to have much choice at present!
I am the not so proud owner of my second 2000 lbs stainless steel exterior wood furnace. My original furnace developed perforations in it's belly causing it to loose all it's water in only it's second heating season. I managed to make it to spring by holding vigilance over ten or so pine plugs hammered into the holes to stop the leaks!
This first boiler was promptly replaced under warranty by Wood Doctor at virtually no cost to me.
This replacement stainless steel boiler has now just barely made it threw it's third heating season this time developing perforations primarily along the belly weld lines!
My original furnace has a 25 year warranty covering repairs at 100% for the first 5 years. I am still within the first 5 years of my warranty and have had two of these boilers corrode out on me.
This time around though, Wood Doctor is exercising a phrase in it's warranty which they believe gives them the right to request that I ship my entire furnace half way across the country for assessment to repaired or replaced rather then they alow someone local to fix it.
It is simply ludicrous to me that they believe they can interpret their warranty in this way, making it, in fact, no warranty at all! Their interpretation is essentially that an entire 2000 lbs furnace is a "part" that they can request be returned to them for repair!
I've stuck epoxy putty over all the holes in my Wood Doctor and put it back online for this heating season, but I have no idea how long it will be able to hold water! I do not seem to have much choice at present!