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16

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: water loss problem

« on: December 04, 2017, 09:28:37 PM »

If you used compression fittings, check real close to make sure water isn't trickling down the pipe. If it is at the back side of the pipe it is sometimes hard to notice.

Yes I checked all a round the fittings but that is a good reminder. Thanks RSI.

17

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: water loss problem

« on: December 04, 2017, 04:51:18 PM »

tee in a boiler drain and pressurize with a hose while isolated from the stove, then see it it drops pressure.

That is a good idea. Thanks EY

18

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: water loss problem

« on: December 04, 2017, 04:33:17 PM »

it has to be seeping somewhere. i would triple check all fittings.  my heatmor 400 never needed any water added. even at end of seasom, because of the bladder it would atill be full even afyer the water cooled down

Yes i checked all the fittings and around the Grundfro pump. Thinking it may be a bad or cracked line in the ground.

19

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: water loss problem

« on: December 04, 2017, 04:17:31 PM »

A 50 plate water to water exchanger. Only one side of it has been hooked up so I could at least get water and antifreeze into the boiler side and get it going. The other side just has the plastic caps on it.

20

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / water loss problem

« on: December 04, 2017, 03:02:49 PM »

Ok I have been checking the water level in my (new to me) Heatmor and it was going down when I had the pump running and just circulating water from the shop to the boiler (no fire yet). No signs of leaks at the boiler or inside the shop. I was losing a 1/2 an inch every 24 hrs (in the boiler). After two days of running on low I shut off the pump and closed the valves at the boiler and the water stopped going down. I checked it for two more days and the water level remained the same. I have brand new al pex lines in insulated pipes that are sealed together in the ground. No splices just one line up and one line back. The bladder valve has been closed for all of this. Could I have a leak in the underground lines or could it be just getting rid of air in the system? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

21

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: The plan

« on: October 31, 2017, 10:32:30 PM »

Thanks wreckit87, now to break open the system and get some heat!!

22

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: The plan

« on: October 29, 2017, 09:35:36 AM »

Thanks RSI. One more question does the (what looks to be an air bleeder) on the elbow going down to the boiler still need to be there or can it go?

23

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: The plan

« on: October 28, 2017, 08:09:52 PM »

Bump.
I'm getting close to fire up and need some clarity, when you guys said after the tee below the mixing vale did you mean where the blue handle valve is? If so would it be better before the valve or after?

24

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Some pics of my setup

« on: October 07, 2017, 09:37:45 PM »

I was thinking of something similar for my setup. Glad to see it in pics instead of my empty head. LOL. The patio and fire pit will need to be added for sure!! 

25

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: More Moderators

« on: September 17, 2017, 08:30:45 PM »

Old tech vs new tech? Old wins everytime. It just works. Thanks for the pics coolidge and where is the GPS Marty (it drives itself)? LOL

26

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: The plan

« on: August 30, 2017, 08:40:40 PM »

It looks like you will want to just put the plate in series with the return into the boiler. It needs to be on the boiler side of the tee that is directly below the mixing valve.

Ok. When you say boiler side of the tee you mean where that valve is located right? Do I need that valve or can it go bye bye? Thanks for the help guys.

27

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: The plan

« on: August 29, 2017, 08:41:12 PM »

Here is a few pics of the shop boiler. It has a mixing valve. It looks like the pump is on the return side so would it be better to put the flat plate before or after the pump or does it even matter?

28

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: The plan

« on: August 28, 2017, 08:38:30 PM »

Not trying to butt in on Marty but yes you'll need a mixing valve ( and another pump if you separate the floor loops  from the furnace water with the flat plate. )

The floor heat in the shop is a propane fired boiler (pressurize system). I want to put a plate exchanger in to keep the pressure side and the open side separate. Will I need more then one pump in the wood boiler side of the shop loop? I'm guessing not but I've been wrong before. LOL

29

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: The plan

« on: August 28, 2017, 05:18:15 PM »

Thanks Marty, The water to air exchanger is after the furnace and just before the ac coil. It's a down draft style furnace. Will I need the mixing valve in the shop? I'll get a 30 plate. Thanks

30

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / The plan

« on: August 27, 2017, 11:12:16 AM »

The plan is 75 ft to the house with 1in id pipe then into an 18 x 18 water to air exchanger with two 90 deg fittings. No DHW. The shop is a 50 ft run with 1 in id pipe and two 90 deg into the building then into a 20 plate water to water exchanger for my water floor heat. I believe I will need a mixing valve to get the water down to 120 deg for the floor heat. Is this correct? The pumps I would like to use for both are Armstrong 20 20 CI. I will be running antifreeze because of long days at work sometimes. If I did my math correctly this should work or did I miss something? Additional info the shop is 1200sq ft well insulated and the house is 1550 sq ft and well insulated also. Propane usage is 600 to 700 gals a year and the shop runs close to the same. Any inputs would be great as I want to get this right the fist time. Thanks Ray