Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Username: Password:

Author Topic: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions  (Read 7108 times)

MiHawkeye

  • Training Wheels
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 45
  • OWF Brand: Heiss Heater
  • OWF Model: gasifier
    • View Profile
My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« on: September 30, 2013, 06:29:18 AM »

First post for me on here.  I have been lurking for quite a while, and thanks for all the help/info.  I recently bought a Heiss Heater, controversial on here I know, but it fits what I want it to do and feel it is now a good boiler. 

After the install I wanted a single thermostat to control everything inside.  I didn't want to put a second one in, and didn't need a control for the boiler.  In a nutshell, I wated a thermostat that will kick on the blower on my furnace when it gets to X degrees, no propane burning, only the blower.  If it gets to Y degrees, then kick on the propane as a backup heat.  Also needed something to control the airconditioner in the summer.

First HVAC guy I called was extremely rude.  Don't know if his dog just died or what, but was telling me how I needed a control that would turn the blower on the boiler on, turn the pump to the boiler on, and control the water temp, while also maintaining my house at X degrees.  I explained to him that the boiler is all self contained and self controlled, that there is an aquastat sensing the temp of the water, and when it goes below X degrees, then it kicks on the blower to stoke the fire and get it hotter, and that there is a pump circulating the water.  Many times through the conversation he kept interrupting me when I told him what I wanted, and was just an a$$ in general.

Second HVAC guy I called was opposite of the first.  Said no problem, we can essentailly do anything you want to do.  We can control everything from one unit, can do it all....BUT it is going to cost at least $600-$800 for the labor, and the thermostat I use exclusively is about a $500 one, but it is a nice one, you can control the temp from your iphone.

Third through the fifth one I spoke to all told me they can have someone come out to the house and look, but it will liekly require a complete rewire of the furnace system, and it will be a very costly adventure. 

Finally spoke to someone at Honeywell customer service to see if they had anything to do what Iwanted to do.  After theee people I couldn't understand, got an American customer service guy, and he pointed me in the right direction.  I went to Lowe's to find the right one, and wouldn't you know it, they had it, but it was out and wouldn't be getting another one until next week.  BUT, the guy working there said why don't you try the HVAC store at the corner, they might have something in stock. 

Arrived there about 430 in afternoon, right when they were closing shop for the day.  They usually deal in commercial HVAC, but do dabble in residential supply only.  There were a few of them in the lobby, and all came up to me when I was telling one what I needed and my story thus far.  2 minutes later one of them comes out of the back froom with the PRO1 iaq T755 thermostat.  Opened it up and explained the wiring to me and wrote it all out.  He even gave me his card with his cell number on it if I had any questions to call his and he will run me through it.  All for $100.  The way he explained the wiring to me is as follows.

Red to Rh or Rc with jumper between the two.
Green to G and W/E with jumper between the two
White to the W2 for gas furnace
Yellow to Y for cooling.

Took this home, and in 15 minutes had it installed.  Quick technician programming for heat pump and was able to then do homeowners programming for temps and when I needed backup heat to kick on. 

Hope this helps people get the thermostat wired.  This is once again for a system that the boiler is independent.  I know there are some that require a tie in to the blower on the boiler to the thermostat, this obviously won't work for those systems, or if you require a pump tied in also.  If anyone has any questions, feel free to post them on here and I can do my best to answer them about this.

--MiHawkeye



[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
Logged

yoderheating

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 833
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2013, 08:16:40 AM »

 That works well when you have 2 sources of heat, the problem with many homes is they already have some type of 2 sources of heat already. When you add a third is when most people have a hard time using one tstat.
Logged
Southwest Virginia
WF4000 Heat Master

brian79z

  • Training Wheels
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3
  • OWF Brand: Johnson
  • OWF Model: Big John
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2013, 06:27:43 PM »

I think you described exactly what I need.

So-- you are able to have wood heat with indoor furnace "fan only" kick in at - say 72 degrees..   But if the room temp happens to drop down below - say 65 degrees, the gas burners in the same indoor furnace kick on with the "auto fan".

And you accomplished that with a PRO1 iaq T755 thermostat and the wiring list you posted.

done.. no more to do... right?  (I do not have or need any controls on the OWB.. it just runs by itself and supplies the heat exchanger in the indoor furnace plenum box)
Logged

MiHawkeye

  • Training Wheels
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 45
  • OWF Brand: Heiss Heater
  • OWF Model: gasifier
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2013, 06:59:34 PM »

Yup, that is all I did.  No other electrical work or relays.  The way I have my thermostat programed is there is a hot and cold swing temp.  I have mine set so that if the temp drops below .7 degrees from my set point, the blower only kicks in and heats by using the heat exchanger in the pleume of the furnace.  The back up heat is then programmed to have the proane kick in, and I have it so if it drops 3X the swing temp, so if it goes down 2.1 degrees from the set point, it kicks on and goes until the temp is at the set point.  With this thermostat I was told you could also have it set for the propane to kick on at X temp, and blower only at Y temp.  I elected to have it do the swing temps so it keeps it more of a level temp range.
Logged

johnboy68

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1
  • OWF Brand: Earth Outdoor
  • OWF Model: Rrancher 360
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2013, 12:05:52 PM »

I apologize if this has already been covered on here somewhere else.  I am new here and this is my first post...

Could I use a Honeywell Pro 3000 non programmable to accomplish the same thing?  My setup is similar to yours.
Logged

MiHawkeye

  • Training Wheels
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 45
  • OWF Brand: Heiss Heater
  • OWF Model: gasifier
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2013, 03:47:10 PM »

I don't have any experience with the Honeywell thermostats, but as long as it is a mulit-stage thermostat you should be able to do the same things with it.
Logged

OldRed

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2
  • OWF Brand: Heatmor
  • OWF Model: 200X
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2015, 03:25:55 PM »

Mihawkeye,

I am getting the Pro1 thermostat that you discussed above.  Any chance I can pick your brain about how it has performed for you.

Thank you,

Dale
Logged

Bluegrass Wood Burner

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 218
  • OWF Brand: Ozzark Biomass
  • OWF Model: Gasconade 500 gallon
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2018, 09:03:10 AM »

Will the thermostat in this topic, the pro1 755 let the boiler be the primary heat source and the heat pump only kick on as backup? I am need to replace my defective heat pump thermostat and feel it would be a good time to go with one thermostat rather than the two thermostat system. I actually found a deal on the 721 for 30.00 brand new still in original package. Any help would be appreciated.
Logged
South central Kentucky
Ford F-150
16 ft tandem trailer
3000# winch
Husqvarna 142
Husqvarna 460 rancher
6ft spud bar
Poulan 3314
22 ton lowes splitter
Timberline sharpener
"Worn out body"

NaturallyAspirated

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 443
  • OWF Brand: Central Boiler
  • OWF Model: M250
  • Golfing, snowmobiling fool!
    • View Profile
    • http://www.nealmastel.com
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2018, 09:20:44 AM »

I have done the same thing with my Nest.  OWB is on H1 and electric backup is on H3.   :thumbup:
Logged
Miss Farad was pretty and sensual, and charged to a reckless potential; but a rascal named Ohm conducted her home - Her decline was, alas, exponential
Send me your bitcoins!  1GEsGKzP5xK9e45YDjmRzGYpnhwT3oNbvj

shepherd boy

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 365
  • OWF Brand: HeatMaster
  • OWF Model: C375
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2018, 12:10:41 PM »


 You need two stages of heat to run your heat pump. So if you want one stat to do it all you need three stages of heat. The problem is most stats with three stages put the heat pump first and fossil fuel last, you want heat pump in the second stage. The alternative is a heat sensor which will cut out the compressor and pull in the blower anytime it senses heat. Then any heat pump stat will work including the 721.
Logged
Let the youngin's have it
 Gettin' old and lazy
 Lookin' for the next good fishing hole

juddspaintballs

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 640
    • View Profile
Re: My thermostat journey and wiring instructions
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2018, 09:03:36 AM »

I used a sensor to break the compressor wire on my heat pump in the last house.  As long as the sensor sensed 100+ degree water in the boiler loop, the yellow wire to the compressor was broken and the heat pump couldn't kick on when the thermostat called for heat.  The blower ran, however, which is how the hot air from the HX in the duct was distributed around the house.  If my fire went out and the water in the boiler dropped below 100 degrees, when the thermostat called for heat, the heat pump came on like normal.  I had electric strip heat as emergency heat.
Logged