Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: gratefulgary on January 20, 2013, 08:54:03 AM
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I have an ~11 yr. old Central Boiler, CL 5848SB, that has sprung a leak from one of those button looking welds on the inside of the firebox. Can I just crawl in there and mig weld some bead over the spot and come out alive, and the leak have stopped?
Thanks,
G
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With my home made boiler that I had, it started to leak the last couple of years that I owned it, and all I did was drain the water down below the leak, weld it up and fill her back up. I never had any issues with welding it, I did do a good job of cleaning around the cracked area. Also I had the door and chimney damper wide open to create a bit of air flow. Just be careful you don't burn a bigger hole in it that what can be filled in.
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Can I just crawl in there and mig weld some bead over the spot and come out alive, and the leak have stopped?
Probably the instant you strike an arc you'll blow a much larger hole in it. When my FIL's 5648 sprung a leak on it's 8th year, his welder friend went in with a chipping hammer and tried knocking the rust out of the way first, and on the very first swing the pin hole turned into a quarter inch sized in-your-face squirt gun.
CB swapped his out for $3500, but his was less than 8 years old. I doubt you'll get that lucky.
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I have an ~11 yr. old Central Boiler, CL 5848SB, that has sprung a leak from one of those button looking welds on the inside of the firebox. Can I just crawl in there and mig weld some bead over the spot and come out alive, and the leak have stopped?
Thanks,
G
these guys are right you will find out that you will end up welding a patch over hole or weld in a new whole skinso your dealing with all new metal....but thats alot of work and alot of down time.....if you go in there and weld it....but keep air flow moving threw open dampner are you using gas or flus coated wire in mig? if you use gas make shure it's not to much flow and pull your gas away from your weld......
good luck
kelly
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Can I just crawl in there and mig weld some bead over the spot and come out alive, and the leak have stopped?
Probably the instant you strike an arc you'll blow a much larger hole in it. When my FIL's 5648 sprung a leak on it's 8th year, his welder friend went in with a chipping hammer and tried knocking the rust out of the way first, and on the very first swing the pin hole turned into a quarter inch sized in-your-face squirt gun.
CB swapped his out for $3500, but his was less than 8 years old. I doubt you'll get that lucky.
If you can put a patch over so you know you have good metal to weld to. I would stay away from arc welding because it digs into the metal so much and you will end up with a giant hole like Marty said. If you are going to do it. Mig or tig is the way too go just make sure its good and clean so make a good weld and don't end up with a bunch of porosity in your weld that wont last very long.
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thanx guys, I have a MIG welder and use gas. It's a long story, but that I have a welder doesn't necessarily make me one, ergo the questions. I'll se if I can't dig up something to use as a patch. I gave the area a couple of whacks and it seems solid. A square piece from some angle iron should work.
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I think what you have there is what CB calls a "stae pin" leak? On those older models a support pin was welded between the firebox and waterjacket. I think they welded them straight throught he firebox then welded front and back sides. Expansion/contraction may have popped some slag out or cracked that tab weld. If the metal is good, I would think you could drain unit down below leak, shine it up a bit with a wire wheel and weld back over the spot and you should be good to go.
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Oh no not another central cracker!!!!!
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thanx guys, I have a MIG welder and use gas. It's a long story, but that I have a welder doesn't necessarily make me one, ergo the questions. I'll se if I can't dig up something to use as a patch. I gave the area a couple of whacks and it seems solid. A square piece from some angle iron should work.
Yes that should work just don't use a galvanized piece Good luck. I have faith you can do it. Let us know how it works out
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Boilerman, you are right on the money! And that's exactly what it is, and exactly what I did. I went in "cold", that is, down a voltage setting to reduce the penetration, built up some weld around the perimeter of the button and then across the top. Ground it down, and voila! Filled it back up and if it isn't leaking this AM will fire it up. The hardest part was wiring in an extension cord for the Lincoln 215 (it's much more than I need but I couldn't pass up the deal...nearly new for $700) to get to the boiler, ~50 ft. Although, cleaning out the firebox sufficiently to climb in was kind of a drag. Oh, and I put a piece of plywood down inside to kneel on while welding...just in case.
Thanks everyone,
G