RSI: Here are the specs
Three Speed High Performance Circulating Pump
•Removable Integrated Check Valve
•Built-in motor protection for longer life
•Quiet and low power consumption
•Prevents thermal siphoning
•Pump Housing: Cast Iron
•Voltage: 115 V, 60 HZ. Power: 100/70/55w. Motor: 2 Pole, Single Phase
•Min Fluid Temp: 36° F (2° C). Max Fluid Temp: 230° F (110° C). Max Flow: 21.9 (U.S. GPM). Max Head: 19 feet (head). Max Working Pressure: 145 PSI
•Insulation Class: H 356° F (180° C)
Vendor: Stiebel Eltron
I have a 12X12 air exchanger in my garage, 18X22 in my house furnace and a 20 plate exchanger for DWH. I hooked up the garage coil just "T" into the hot and the return.... works great. Then the lines proceed to the house, when I hooked up the 20 plate i ran the hot feed into plate then back out main furnace coil. The return is still hooked up to exchanger in furnace just how it always was. I still wonder if I would have just "t" into the hot feed and the ruturn with the 20 plate if it would have worked better....but im sure it wouldnt have got the heat i need.
Im thinking your right though if i could get more volume of water therough the system then i may be able to retain more heat... What are your thoughts on turning boiler temp to 180 degrees insted of 175? U think that may make any diffirence?
Its 26 degrees this morning , really strong east wind, filled stove last night and checked after 9 hrs and still 2/3 full Garage is at 64.... House is at 74 and got hot water.... And when not calling for DHW the house registers are very nice and warm. Maybe im to worried about it. Hot water usage is only a small part of time. All 5 of us took seperate showers last night and never ran out of hot water.... and the temp in the house never dropped ... Just concerned when it gets down to -10 to-20 below if im going to be dropping temp in house when calling for hot water.. Let me know.... sorry for rambling on....
Matt