Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
301
HeatMaster / Re: Heatmaster 4000 ss won't keep up
« on: January 29, 2016, 12:44:37 PM »
You are just pulling a lot of heat. You have 1600 ft top and bottom =3200 + hot water . You are getting close to max sq. ft. There is no suggestion as to how long a burn time you can expect running close to max. I've seen a 3000e do good on a 5000 sq ft house with 6" foam walls and 12" foam ceiling,12 + hours anytime, but I just saw a house 1500 sq ft that needed a a 5000sq ft furnace to get a decent burn time.
How big is your blower in your furnace (cfm)? how big is your heat exchanger? You might be able to increase your heat exchange but that will put a heavier demand on the outdoor furnace.
How big is your blower in your furnace (cfm)? how big is your heat exchanger? You might be able to increase your heat exchange but that will put a heavier demand on the outdoor furnace.
302
Portage & Main / Re: Twins?: P&M EGR250 & Polar Furnace G3
« on: January 27, 2016, 10:02:35 AM »
I think your right. It has not passed EPA white tag. The other question I wonder about is whether the ultimizer is coal only independent lad tested. UL or other. Strawbale's website says if it can burn coal it's legal. The way I read it it must be independent lab tested coal only. I was at a farmshow recently and no tags were on the stove, not even a brand name.
303
Portage & Main / Re: Twins?: P&M EGR250 & Polar Furnace G3
« on: January 27, 2016, 06:40:42 AM »
The Optimizer 350 is the only one listed on the updated epa list. I know there is sometimes a lag from approval to listing and was just wondering.
304
Portage & Main / Re: Twins?: P&M EGR250 & Polar Furnace G3
« on: January 26, 2016, 07:29:56 PM »
Has the EGR250 ever been certified? The Polar G3 has been. I doubt they are the same, clone maybe? If it's the same furnace it should have the the same certification.
305
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: explain this
« on: January 21, 2016, 04:20:16 PM »
Things to check: If it is a late model 5000 the flap is on a spring. The flap can get a cinder or ash under the flap and hold it open a little. flip the flapper up and down and you should hear metal to metal and maybe knock out anything that may have gotten under the flap. Older units have the flap coming down on top of the fan. Check the flex duct going to the bottom for leak.
Stuck solenoid, sometimes they can stick and just the vibration of opening the back door can cause them to shut. hard to notice.
Ash pan closed. When taking out ashes lift up front of ash pan so it scrapes up any ash on floor under the pan. Ash under the pan will cause it not to seal properly.
You have an air leak and since it was all at once it's probably not a main door seal.
If it's a ranco stat make sure it's on H1 not C1. If the blower is not on and it's still rising it's not the stat.
Stuck solenoid, sometimes they can stick and just the vibration of opening the back door can cause them to shut. hard to notice.
Ash pan closed. When taking out ashes lift up front of ash pan so it scrapes up any ash on floor under the pan. Ash under the pan will cause it not to seal properly.
You have an air leak and since it was all at once it's probably not a main door seal.
If it's a ranco stat make sure it's on H1 not C1. If the blower is not on and it's still rising it's not the stat.
306
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Boiler temp
« on: January 18, 2016, 06:55:05 PM »
I missed your changing only one side of your inlet outlet. RSI is right!, counter flowing two systems could defeat the purpose of getting better circulation in the boiler. That's why you notice no difference going to 190.
307
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Boiler temp
« on: January 17, 2016, 02:53:19 PM »
The biggest difference I see in shorter burn differentials is in creosote build up. The fire never gets hot enough to burn it out. Higher burn temps using more fuel is almost always linked to conversion of heat to water inside the furnace. Your fire needs to work harder to keep the higher temps. With enough heat extraction in the exhaust this is kept to a minimum.Stoves with a chimney straight out the firebox are less efficient with heavier heat draw. More heat goes out the stack. More heat conversion inside your house has got to help. More baseboard or splice in a cast iron radiator will give a big lift.
308
Plumbing / Re: Circulator pump noise
« on: January 12, 2016, 11:00:24 AM »
All piping will have some friction and needs pressure or suction to move the water. Smaller pipe requires more to move the same gpm. Did some calculation on an 011 pump (30 GPM max flow).. If friction is great enough on input side to drop gpm to 17 gpm water will vaporize at 176 degrees. So if you figure half pulling and half pushing if gpm drops to 8.5gpm you could vaporize in the feed line at 176 degrees. In a pressurized boiler situation, however, at 10 psi you can stall it dead on a return, and never vaporize because the boiler pressure overcomes the negative pressure of the pump.
309
Plumbing / Re: Circulator pump noise
« on: January 11, 2016, 12:09:35 PM »
If you put your pump down stream like in the house on a nonpressurized boiler like an outdoor furnace you create a vacuum in the suction line. Water will boil at a much lower temp in that vacuum and can be putting steam in the circulator at 180 degrees. Putting the pump on the stove where you push the water could solve your issue. The longer the line and the bigger the pump the greater the chance of this issue.
310
Plumbing / Re: Replacement pump size?
« on: January 09, 2016, 04:40:14 PM »
I'd vote for a Grundfos UPS 15-58 or B&G NRF 22. Got a little more push than the 007 and more gpm than the 009.
311
Plumbing / Re: First Failed Pump
« on: January 08, 2016, 05:21:17 PM »
You can get 007 taco pumps with flanges both ways. Look for a rotated flange pump.
312
Plumbing / Re: Cast Iron Radiators
« on: January 08, 2016, 05:14:50 PM »
Why would you use a tempering valve?
313
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Large heat loss issue??
« on: January 04, 2016, 05:28:03 PM »
Smokeless, The greatest heat exchange on your gasser takes place on the tubes at the rear of the furnace, your top return has a tube internally to pour return water on the exchange tubes.
314
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Large heat loss issue??
« on: January 04, 2016, 05:21:58 PM »
That is the way I would do it.
315
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Large heat loss issue??
« on: January 04, 2016, 05:16:50 PM »
Hawken, Heatmaster, you want to pull from bottom and return top. Top return line goes to front so you git a front to back circulation.Not all are that way. depends how it's plumed on the inside. Ran into someone had a unit that had no return tube to front of the boiler and he could never get decent hot water out of the unit. only circulated between the ports. Follow instructions.