Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Fire Wood => Topic started by: Marleywood on August 26, 2017, 01:23:00 PM
-
Hi folks,
This will be my second winter up here in central New Hampshire with an OWF, a Central Boiler, "The Classic" CL-5648. It's not new, we're new to the house, LOL.
I'm getting a delivery of a truckload of freshly felled mixed hardwoods (maybe some pine in there as well, they are clearing building lots) from a local logger.
Last year we didn't have the time to cut & split our own wood, so I bought a some seasoned and some green split wood. Honestly, I could not tell when the seasoned stuff ran out & I started going through the "green" stuff.
Can I just chainsaw this stuff up to size & split it (as warranted by size) and burn it exclusively this year? Should I get some seasoned stuff to start off with? I've been told these things will burn pretty much anything you throw into them once they get going.....
Have at it, I look forward to the discussion!
Marleywood.
-
Burning pretty much anything you can throw in em is what led to the EPA requiring all residential wood boilers to pass emission tests….
Classic or not, the wetter the wood you burn in it the more condensation you’ll have in it, the more condensation you have the quicker it will rot out.
Besides, you can waste up to 40% of the BTU content of the wood just from boiling the water out of the wood.
-
He is exactly right. I read this somewhere... "think of someone coming in the night and stealing 40% of your wood pile". Basically that is what will happen with wet wood. The first year I had my stove I burned wood in the mid to upper 30s percentage of moisture and thought the stove worked great but it did smoke a significantly amount more than last year when I burned wood in the mid to upper 20s. From now on I have been trying my best to keep the wood I burn in the 20s. Less smoke and longer burn times that's for sure. I can get 15 hours of burn time when the wood is in the 20s but only 12 in the 30s so that alone speaks for itself. I have also come to find burning rounds in a conventional OWB works better than splits.
-
Without forced draft you may have trouble getting it to burn if it is too green?
-
I have also come to find burning rounds in a conventional OWB works better than splits.
Good to know, that was my thought as well, but nice to have it confirmed. My plan was only to split the stuff that was too big to handle as a round.
If I let this stuff sit all winter till next year, I'll have to buy split wood....
-
What part of central NH you live?? Central NH here..Far as burning green wood.. Ya it will burn it..Makes your boiler work harder.. btus up in smoke..Far as burning wood whole rounds..Kinda be careful about that.. Round wood can bridge, the fire burns everything in the middle..Wood doesn't fall into the fire..Fire went out..Its happened to me!!..Im a fan of a good mixture of split and unspilt wood, small and large
-
I have also come to find burning rounds in a conventional OWB works better than splits.
Good to know, that was my thought as well, but nice to have it confirmed. My plan was only to split the stuff that was too big to handle as a round.
If I let this stuff sit all winter till next year, I'll have to buy split wood....
Make a few phone calls to a local tree service. The ones around here will sell wood for dirt cheap. Sometimes it's free as they pay to dump it. In Wisconsin seems like the demand is much higher so usually you have to purchase it. I can't remember an exact number but it was somewhere in the $25 a cord range if you picked it up and split it. Dirt cheap.
-
Make a few phone calls to a local tree service. The ones around here will sell wood for dirt cheap. Sometimes it's free as they pay to dump it. In Wisconsin seems like the demand is much higher so usually you have to purchase it. I can't remember an exact number but it was somewhere in the $25 a cord range if you picked it up and split it. Dirt cheap.
Too many folks around here heat with wood for anyone to be selling any "dirt cheap" I'm afraid. The cheapest I've seen is for split green @ $225/cord.
-
Aw man that's too bad. Any chance of buying a semi load of wood? Last I called it was 800 delivered uncut logs roughly 10-12 cord
-
It all depends on where you live. I live in NH and just got winter 18/19 wood dropped off. New logger I am buying from sells it for whatever the mill is buying it from him for hardwood pulp. Price two weeks ago was 44 per ton. They go to the closest scale and weigh it up. Came up to be 20.12 tons. $889 dropped off. Almost done cutting it up. Looked like 7.5 cords but I'll know after I split it. Pretty standard cost and amount for a straight truck.
-
What part of central NH you live?? Central NH here..
Newfound Lake area
Far as burning wood whole rounds..Kinda be careful about that.. Round wood can bridge, the fire burns everything in the middle..Wood doesn't fall into the fire..Fire went out..Its happened to me!!..Im a fan of a good mixture of split and unspilt wood, small and large
Good advice. I wasn't planning on burning exclusively rounds, just some that were small enough to burn w/o splitting.
It all depends on where you live. I live in NH and just got winter 18/19 wood dropped off. New logger I am buying from sells it for whatever the mill is buying it from him for hardwood pulp. Price two weeks ago was 44 per ton. They go to the closest scale and weigh it up. Came up to be 20.12 tons. $889 dropped off. Almost done cutting it up. Looked like 7.5 cords but I'll know after I split it. Pretty standard cost and amount for a straight truck.
Heck, I paid double that, but the logger claimed is was around 12 cords. We'll see.
-
Was it a straight truck or a semi? I have never gotten a semi but those guys do claim it's around 12 cords. All the guys I hAve bought wood from before charge by the truck load, 700-900 per truck depending On the logger. Ussually I would get anywhere from 7-8 cords. This guy that I am getting wood from now is the only guy that I have ever heard of that sells it by the weight. I guess it's the most fair way of doing things especially since the amount you get varies greatly depending on if the wood is nice and straight or nasty and crocked.
-
Well it is the real true measurement, the more pounds of wood the more BTUs
-
I guess if you're buying by the truckload, it will pretty much always be green, which is going to weigh much more than "seasoned" wood.
The truck load I got was a timber truck with two rows of wood.
-
Log length wood really doesn't lose any of it's moisture until it is cut up and split. 44 per ton is the green weight that the mill buys it for.
-
I haven't sold to a mill in a long time Honda so I'm going to assume that you are talking 44% moisture or are you saying $44 per ton
-
I am saying that the mill price right now is $44 per ton for hardwood pulp dropped
Off at th
-
Wow that's not so bad, most of the guys I know can hardly get rid of tree length hardwood pulp, what mill is paying that and are there quotas onit
-
He told me and I can't remember. There are a few around, one of them may have been in wentworth nh?
-
I'm pretty sure that some of my friends who can't get rid of it would like more info if you could find that out?
-
Sure I can find out.
-
Thanks!
-
Hhp in henniker nh is the one buyer of hardwood pulp that he mentioned. The rest of the hardwood logs either go as saw logs to the local mills or firewood processors.
-
Do they have quotas?
-
No idea. Hhp has a website.
-
Any chip mill, which is what they do with hardwood pulp, it either gets chipped for fuel( perhaps pellets ) or it gets chipped for paper grade but that must be pure hardwood and no dark hardwood like oak, it is used for specialty paper, anyway every one I have ever dealt with all have quotas. With the market as poor as it is here at the pulp mills, I am very surprised that they would be paying even close to that price.
-
I never asked further about that price per ton. Maybe it was saw log prices. Or maybe I just misunderstood all togeather and that's just the price per ton they sell log length wood for.
-
Saw logs are by the square foot or the term used is the board foot, scalers measure the top end of a log and the length to determine the board foot, it has nothing to do with the weight.
Again tree length is purchased by a chipping company or paper producer by the ton, it is done on quota and $44 per ton seems to me to be pretty good money for a local mill, most of the mills pay more money if it is ina further zone.
-
Well then I may have totally misunderstood where the 44 per ton comes from.
-
Your calculations for the tonnage, cordage and cost per ton all add up right where I think they should be, I'm just saying that currently I'm thinking that the cost per ton is higher than what most mills are paying.