Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Portage & Main => Topic started by: pops69 on October 31, 2019, 03:18:54 AM
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I have a 28-40, turned pump on a couple of days ago, pump got hot, put a new pump on still not moving water. I have my DHW bypassed and just running heat exchanger. I sent a water sample in, Portage & Main said drain 30% of water and fill with distilled water, I did that. Can't figure why no water moving pressure gage not moving at all. Not sure if there is air in the lines some where or what else it could be. Any ideas?
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air in line. You still using 010 taco? That's a low head pump. If you want to stick with taco get you a 011 and your problem will get solved.
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Thanks shepherd boy, is there a better pump than a TACO? Thought might have calcium or sediment in heat exchanger. Also pump is in the basement, been working since 2014. Is there a way to purge the line with water?
Thanks again
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If you have a drain valve in the house after the pump, open it and let water flow. You should hear the pump start churning once water gets to it.
If that doesn't work, close the return valve and try again.
If you don't have a drain valve, loosen the pump flange on the output side of the pump withough shutting the valves to let some water out. That usually will get the water flowing.
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Also, did you make sure the new pump was not installed backwards? There should be an arrow on the pump that needs to point the right way.
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Grunfus 26-96 is another option. when installing a unit I would always put a fill valve in the house. Then all you need to do is open the fill valve and close one valve on the furnace and purge air on that side , then close it and on the other and purge that side and your low head pump would have no problem. Then I would use a nrf22 B&G or a 15-58 grunfus on your situation. Pull less amps and cheaper pump.
One thought on pump in house, you are pulling a vacuum on the incoming line and if you have 190 degree water it can boil in that vacuum and steam will cause premature pump failure as well as air lock your lines.
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Is the pump location above or below the boiler, or is it pulling or pushing the water? Not sure I said that correctly??
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Noticed on an earlier post he had his pump in basement, Pump should be on stove and water pushed to house. pulling water even down hill will cause a vacuum and can boil water at a lower temp and cause pump failure and vaper lock. Going to a higher head pump will only aggravate the problem as it will increase the vacuum.
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My boiler sits higher than my work shop and house. My pumps are in the shop and house, I assume this means less air bubbles being trapped because the bubbles will rise given time. My house is the lowest and I have started the pump for a couple minutes and shut it off for a bit to let the bubbles rise. I then re start the pump and I can hear that the bubbles have moved up and away to the boiler. My pumps now run quiet for the rest of the heating season on the low setting with no issues. May not be good for everyone but it seems to work for my set up.
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If the boiler is higher than the pumps you can often get away with them bring partway around the loop (sited in the house sucking half the loop). The concern is the vacuum created pulling on the incoming line. It can cause cavitation. If it's working for you just keep in mind if the OWB boils it could flash to stream when the 200 degree water pulls into the piping and the pump could lock up trying to pull the vapor downhill to the house. May never be an issue, just something to keep in mind.
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Removed lines from my heat exchanger in the furnace, blew out lines everything working as it should now. Thanks for the help!