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Author Topic: Door corrosion  (Read 12240 times)

bsturn

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Door corrosion
« on: February 11, 2012, 11:01:22 PM »

What does one do about outer door corrosion. I haven't had any leaks on this one yet. Hopefully this one was made before all the crap began at the
factory. This stove idles alot because of a well insulated house, condensation builds on the bottom of the door ledge. I burn seasoned and dry oak wood
but it tends to still drip out around the door. I did turn the temp differential down to 10 degree swing hoping it won't get a chance to condensate.
Can one insulate around the door? The temp adjustment seems to help some. We have around 20 of the 8000 series around and I know only 2 that are
causing this problem. Any help would be cool.

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hawken

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Re: Door corrosion
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2012, 03:42:12 AM »

It would be best to ask the manufacture http://www.polarfurnace.com/ who made these stoves to Arthurs specks.  As WoodDoctor was only a middleman with Profit markup and a 30Year warranty with no RESERVE.

Address:       Polar Furnace Mfg. Inc.
Box 159  Sperling, Manitoba
R0G 2M0 Canada
Telephone:      1 204 626 3485
Fax:      1 204 626 3326
Office hours:      Monday to Friday    8 - 11:30 am,  1 - 5:30pm
Saturday                 8 - 11:30 am,  1 - 3pm
E-Mail:      
info@polarfurnace.com
sales@polarfurnace.com
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hddmax66

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Re: Door corrosion
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2012, 11:03:12 AM »

I'm still tryin to fig that out. My central boiler does the same thing. i got it up and running pretty late in the season and all my wood is pretty green. Id like to solve this problem also. Everyone seems to say its the wet wood that is doining it for me but the first 3 weeks of operation i used the same wood from my bubby that has the same stove and his does not leak. Meanwhile i actually thought about sanding the rust down and spraying high temp paint on the botton ledge in hopes that will slow the corrosion down. A couple things have helped me so far. i used to put the pile as close to the front as possible but i found moving it away helps more and i also started tryin to put as lil wood in as possible.
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Disillusioned

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Re: Door corrosion
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2012, 06:43:09 AM »

We've got the same thing going on and a constant pile of goo on the ground in front of the boiler.   We tipped the boiler slightly forward when we placed it, not realizing that this would make the moisture come out the front, but now that one of our customers had a rot-through in his water jacket and had to get the whole boiler replaced we're thinking we made the right choice.  If our front gets out of hand it's a lot easier to repair ourselves, and we're all aware that's what you need to do now. 
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Scott7m

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Re: Door corrosion
« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2012, 11:43:44 AM »

Closer differential means more creosote, and apparently from what I'm seeing your wood may not be as dried as you think.

If you keep upping your differential until the stove gets hot enough heating back up to burn that out youllbe fine, but short fires of 10 minutes are inefficient and not as hot as let's say you had a 20 degree diff and it roared for 30 minutee
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RSI

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Re: Door corrosion
« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2012, 12:33:36 PM »

Does that model have the blower on the door? If so, where does the air enter the firebox? Can you get a picture of the whole door?

I would check the door over good for cracks. If there is a crack on the inside it could get water built up inside the door and cause smoke to condense at the bottom where there is water inside. I used to have a Pacific Western that had a similar design door and it had bad weld and it got water inside. I just welded it up and left a couple screws out on the outside so it could steam out.

Another thing that may be causing it is how the air is routed. My brother has a Johnson boiler that has a tin channel running up the inside of the door for air to go to the top and the plate below the door rusted right through. He put another 1/4" plate on top of it and he said it is corroding fast again. I believe it is the cold air causing smoke to condense on the tin and run down onto that surface.
If yours has a place that is getting cooled by draft air it will cause corrosion.
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bsturn

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Re: Door corrosion
« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2012, 10:05:02 AM »

Well, thanks to everyone for their comments. I do agree that the swing point of the t-stat at the higher end would help burn the moisture out.
I think what is happening is that my rope seal is starting to leak and the smoke condensates on the ledge. and since the ledge on this stock sticks out beyond
the stove about six inches, the metal around it cools allowing for condensation. I had thoughts if I were to wrap the outside of the door opening with some type of
insulation that would stand heat and weather it would help.
It has done it since it was new. I just don't want it to corrode out early. I have it set at 170 degree water temp with currently a 10 degree swing from when it shuts off to re-firing up. The door seal will have to wait. They are really hard to replace during the burning season. I did notice when the company POLAR took over the WOOD DOCTOR design that they got rid of the outer door surround. Maybe they knew about the rotting and condensation forming when it was at idle stage. Makes sense to me. A lot of wood burners don't have the extension for the door. Other than that, I love it. My father has a Industrial version WOOD DOCTOR on the farm. He burns everything. When a sick calf dies, it too goes in the burner. Takes a day and its gone. Farmers have to pay to get rid of animals who have passed from sickness.
Thanks everyone..
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Scott7m

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Re: Door corrosion
« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2012, 01:34:31 PM »

Polar made wood doctor
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coonsrich@yahoo.com

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Re: Door corrosion
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2012, 07:17:24 PM »

I have 4 years experience with wood dr.  You must burn the driest of wood.  Never green wood. Wood cut and split sitting on pallets and covered with old steel roofing is still 20% moisture.  Never cover sides of woodpile as it keeps in the moisture.  On the stove I just retrofitted the 16 inch stovepipeo it is insulated and covered with a stainless steel outer pipe.  Also the factory stove pipe covers are worthless, they allow rain water to enter the chimney.  I replaced mine with a large piepan type cover mfg by Burkholder Sheetmetal in Epharta, Pa.  All stove pipe must be insulated stainless.  Cold uninsulated steel pipe condenses the moisture from the water in the burning wood and runs down the chimney and will rust the burn chamber.  Back 100 years ago people saved white wood ashes, put them in an old wooden barrel with holes in bottom end, poured rain water in open end of barrel and the water coming out the bottom was lye water to make soap.  They caution however that lye water will rust through steel pans.  So if you have any water and ashes in the burn chamber it causes this lye water mixture which is caustic to the steel.  For hot water heat my temp differential is set at 170-190 and I set house thermostat at 72 degrees 24-7.  I see no moisture at all in the chamber or around the door operating with these conditions.  Radiators in the house are always warm, also I have a 200 gallon hot water tank in cellar which is always 132 degrees and we heat the hot tub daily.  A hot water boiler is way different than a wood stove, it must burn as hot as possible with very dry wood or it will self destruct with corrosion. 
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