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46
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: a\c coil in furnace
« on: June 08, 2019, 08:27:42 PM »
I don't know the answer to your situation exactly, but on my propane furnace, the AC coil box is directly on top of the furnace and then my water/air heat exchanger is right on top of that with no spacer.
47
HeatMaster / Re: Stove picture
« on: May 12, 2019, 03:20:14 PM »
Something that size needs a chute that a skid loader can dump a pile of wood into.
48
General Discussion / Re: Welding wire - .035 vs .052?
« on: May 03, 2019, 06:12:04 PM »
I've got a 180A 220V machine and I generally run .030". I have .025" for light work (welding in body panels) and .035" for heavier welds, but .030" is a happy medium for general purpose welding around the home garage.
49
Plumbing / Re: Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 29, 2019, 08:07:33 PM »
Well, slight change of plans. We're looking at moving now so I'm not going to change anything.
50
Plumbing / Re: Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 16, 2019, 06:42:26 AM »
That makes more sense now. On the other hand, if I put the manifolds in the room with the water heater and furnace, it does get the water heater the hottest water and it reduces the amount of piping I need to run to the coil, the water heater, and sun porch. All I'd need is some true 1" ID pipe from the Logstor to the furnace room.
51
Plumbing / Re: Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 15, 2019, 07:58:43 PM »
Where the Logstor comes through the foundation is where I'm going to put the manifolds. It's an unfinished area of the basement with cinder block walls I can bolt the manifolds to pretty easily. Right now I have a 90 degree elbow on the supply and return ends of the Logstor at the basement wall and a 1" ball valve after that. From there, I could hook up a supply and return manifold and connect them with a flat plate exchanger in between because that would eliminate needing to get true 1" ID PEX and running the 1/2" domestic hot water PEX into that room would be much easier to do. Then, from the manifolds I can have a loop for the coil in the ductwork, a loop for the garage heat, and a loop for the sun porch I'm turning into an interior room of the house. I assume each of those three loops would get their own (smaller) circulator like a 007 or whatever winds up being appropriate. I could simply turn off (and manual valve off) the loop in the coil if it's a warm day and I want to run air conditioning? Or are you saying the 26-99 could circulate all of the loops and to just use ball valves to control them on/off as needed? I actually did it that way at the old house except I did have a 2-way zone valve on the coil in that house and a relief valve between the manifolds that would dump excess pressure when the coil was "off".
52
Plumbing / Re: Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 14, 2019, 06:40:07 PM »
So I could run one loop to the coil and water heater flat plate, but use a 3-way zone valve to turn the coil off when there is no call for heat while the flat plate still gets boiler water?
53
Plumbing / Re: Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 12, 2019, 07:40:31 PM »
Tell me more about this 3 way zone valve.
54
Plumbing / Re: Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 11, 2019, 07:49:48 PM »
I'm on board with putting the flat plate and 20x20 coil on the same circuit. The water heater and furnace are in the same room in the basement, so that's no issue. One big reason I was thinking of doing the coil on it's own circuit was for spring and fall days that get really hot during the day and then cold again a day or two later. While I'm still running the boiler, if water is flowing through the coil, I can't run my air conditioner without heating the house via the coil. Almost every spring and fall, there are a few days that I want to do that. The house heats up enough from the sun that it can be over 80 inside pretty quickly.
Flat plate: should I install that on the incoming water to the water heater? I keep the electricity on to it all the time.
Manifold: I had the unused ports valved off at the old house. It worked out pretty well there.
Here's a photo of the old house.
Flat plate: should I install that on the incoming water to the water heater? I keep the electricity on to it all the time.
Manifold: I had the unused ports valved off at the old house. It worked out pretty well there.
Here's a photo of the old house.
56
Plumbing / Re: Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 11, 2019, 03:46:18 PM »
I don't like my current primary loop as it is. It was a quick install to make it work before it got cold one winter 4 years ago or so. I do intend on using the manifolds I have as I liked having control over each loop individually. The sidearm is getting swapped out for a flat plate now that I've filtered and softened the domestic water in my house.
The coil in my ductwork is a 20x20 from FreeHeat4U.com. My boiler runs at 180-160 differentials and with a full heat load being drawn in the house, return temps are usually only 5 degrees drop from supply temps. The unit heater I'm planning for the garage will probably be a "100k" unit heater that will only run while I'm out there or to maintain about 45 degrees in there at least. I might just get another 20x20 coil and bolt a box fan to it wired to a 120v thermostat instead, but that's to be determined later. The currently unheated room I'm going to finish will likely get radiant floors in it, so it'll need a separate loop for a mixing valve anyways. It's a 12x24 room on the end of the house I'll need to finish enclosing and insulating.
The coil in my ductwork is a 20x20 from FreeHeat4U.com. My boiler runs at 180-160 differentials and with a full heat load being drawn in the house, return temps are usually only 5 degrees drop from supply temps. The unit heater I'm planning for the garage will probably be a "100k" unit heater that will only run while I'm out there or to maintain about 45 degrees in there at least. I might just get another 20x20 coil and bolt a box fan to it wired to a 120v thermostat instead, but that's to be determined later. The currently unheated room I'm going to finish will likely get radiant floors in it, so it'll need a separate loop for a mixing valve anyways. It's a 12x24 room on the end of the house I'll need to finish enclosing and insulating.
57
Plumbing / Adding heat to the garage
« on: April 11, 2019, 11:34:43 AM »
I'm intending to add heat to my detached garage. The closest corner of the garage to the closest corner of my house is 65' away. Right now the garage is uninsulated block 2 car garage with future plans to insulate. I can't find any local dealers for underground piping other than Thermopex. The local guy has it for $11.45/ft for the standard stuff. I only plan on running a unit heater in the garage to keep it somewhat warm when I'm in there, so I think Thermopex would supply enough BTU's for it. How's that sound?
I'm going to do some changes to my setup anyways. Right now I have 30' of Logstor going from the boiler to the house, then another 30' or so of 1" PEX making a loop to the furnace and sidearm heat exchanger and then back to the boiler. All of that is on a Grundfos 26-99 on low (where a Taco 007 was previously in place and could supply enough heat). I have some 1-1/4" bodied manifolds from my old setup that I want to use. Do a 30' loop to the house, through the manifolds, and back to the boiler using the 26-99 and then use the properly sized circulator for each zone off of that. One loop for the furnace, one for water heater, one for the garage, and another loop for an unheated room in the house that I'm finishing out soon.
I'm going to do some changes to my setup anyways. Right now I have 30' of Logstor going from the boiler to the house, then another 30' or so of 1" PEX making a loop to the furnace and sidearm heat exchanger and then back to the boiler. All of that is on a Grundfos 26-99 on low (where a Taco 007 was previously in place and could supply enough heat). I have some 1-1/4" bodied manifolds from my old setup that I want to use. Do a 30' loop to the house, through the manifolds, and back to the boiler using the 26-99 and then use the properly sized circulator for each zone off of that. One loop for the furnace, one for water heater, one for the garage, and another loop for an unheated room in the house that I'm finishing out soon.
58
General DIY remodeling without Hydronics / Re: Bathroom remodel question
« on: March 22, 2019, 12:50:47 PM »
I see no problem with that setup, but if you cared, you could just make the door swing towards the vanity instead of the toilet. You could also make it outward swinging.
59
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Calling it good for the season
« on: March 15, 2019, 05:37:48 PM »
I still have about a cord left. It was in the 70's today. I'll probably stop burning once this cord is gone, even if it snows and gets cold again.
60
Heatmor / Re: Forum is pretty slow
« on: February 11, 2019, 07:51:26 AM »
SlimJim swung through my area and sold me Logstor when I couldn't find any locally. He also sold me some proper fittings for it and showed me the Heatmaster he had on the trailer (I think it was a Heatmaster). Maybe I just don't notice (or care) when people talk bad about other sites, groups, people, or whatever, but I've met SlimJim in person and had no issues with the feller.