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Messages - juddspaintballs

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631
Heatmor / Re: domestic hot water coil
« on: February 14, 2010, 07:44:25 PM »
that is a smart idea.  i'd have to use some of that foam foil insulation to wrap the two together rather than the closed cell foam pipe wrap i was going to use on the return line.  i'll just rubber foam the supply line and domestic hot line and then foil foam the cold water and return lines together. 

still doesn't stop the pipes from freezing if the furnace isn't running for a few days during the winter though.

632
Heatmor / Re: domestic hot water coil
« on: February 14, 2010, 07:06:26 PM »
yes, I suppose it could.  If the furnace were warm, I highly doubt it.  If it were not warm, then yes, it could.  But do you really think that even R-20 insulated pipe would not freeze if left unmoving and unwarmed for 3 or 4 days in temperatures around 10 degrees F?  Looks like manually draining it would be the best bet.  Or keeping a warming wire wrapped around the little bit of pipe in the frost zone to turn on whenever the temperature of the pipe drops below a certain temp. 

633
Heatmor / Re: domestic hot water coil
« on: February 14, 2010, 06:48:37 PM »
It won't freeze if it's below my frost line, which is ~5' in my area.  A trencher can dig 6' so I should be OK.  I can always install a ball valve and a drain fitting and drain that line if I'm not going to be home for a few days. 

634
Heatmor / domestic hot water coil
« on: February 14, 2010, 05:45:40 PM »
If I get a Heatmor 200CSS without a domestic hot water coil installed, how easy would it be to install one myself?  The coil seems like a much better idea than a sidearm heat exchanger with the only downside being an extra two lines of 3/4" pex (only the hot side needs insulated though).  A local Heatmor dealer today told me the coil will give me basically unlimited hot water and be almost identical in price to a sidearm exhanger. 

635
Plumbing / Re: More water line discussion
« on: February 13, 2010, 09:58:46 PM »
I don't have a owb yet, but I'm most likely going to be purchasing a Heatmor 200css with shaker grates.  I know a few people with that owb and they all perform quite well and haven't had any problems yet.  One person I know with that owb is a farmer that really does no maintenance on his machinery and everything around his farm is falling apart, but his Heatmor is still running very well.  I figure if he can use and abuse it like he does with everything else and not take care of it and it's still working, it should hold up quite well with a little TLC.

Priced out my water line idea last night for 4" and 6" drain pipe together and I came up with about $6/ft.  I took a look at my father's water lines today: two 1" lines and two 3/4" lines (for DHW) going to/from the owb all wrapped together inside one layer of foam foil insulation without anything separating them.  The cold water from the well is running to the owb's in one of those 3/4" lines.  I think I can do better than that :)

636
Heatmor / Re: Thinking about a Heatmor 200
« on: February 11, 2010, 06:44:17 PM »
I'm planning on getting one soon as well to heat my drafty old 1660 sq ft house and totally uninsulated garage.  I don't want to keep paying the oil prices with my 30+ yr old oil burning furnace.  Wood is free for me as well.

637
Plumbing / More water line discussion
« on: February 11, 2010, 05:15:10 PM »
Been reading lots of posts on pipe and such.  Seems the general consensus seems to be Thermopex or Logstor.  At $14/ft, I feel like it could be assembled as well for less $$.  From what I've been reading, the 4" drain pipe with 3 layers of foil insulation wrapped around two lines seems inadequate at best. 

So I've been thinking of using 4" or 6" drain pipe with my pex lines run inside of it.  I would encase the pex lines with Thermacel insulation (http://www.pexsupply.com/Nomaco-K-Flex-118C-6-Thermacel-Insulation-for-1-Pipe-1-1-8-x-1-2-5652000-p).  Alternatively, I could use two runs of 2.5" PVC with the pex insulated with that same product inside of it.  Seems to me that with this type of insulation, it would block water from touching the pex (if I sealed the joints with glue) preventing heat loss if the drian pipe got punctured.  Your thoughts? 

Also, for pex, does it need the oxygen barrier or not?

638
I'm trying to decide on a location for an OWB.  I don't want to spend too much on underground piping if I don't have to, especially since I want to heat my detached garage.  I was thinking of putting the furnace about 10' off of the back of the house if that isn't a problem.  Any thoughts?

639
Plumbing / Re: running lines into the basement
« on: February 07, 2010, 09:08:33 PM »
What would be the best way to get water out of those lines?

640
Plumbing / running lines into the basement
« on: February 07, 2010, 08:17:03 PM »
I would like to know the best way to get the lines to/from the OWB into my basement.  I'll be doing a DHW and forced air heat installation, and possibly heating a small detached garage too.  The way my house it built, it has a stone foundation from quartz rocks.  The house is about 135 years old.  I have an addition built onto the back of my house that only has a crawl space.  I want to put the OWB behind my house.  If I go straight to the house, I have to go under the crawlspace.  If I go toward the right side of the house, I'll run into my septic system.  If I go left, I'll have to be careful digging until I find my well lines and then cross over/under the well lines, which is no big deal.  However, if I go left, the left side of my house is also a crawlspace for about 15' into the house so I'd either have to go through that crawlspace or around to the front of the house. 

My thought was what I consider to be the easiest solution but I wasn't sure if it would work well.  I could run straight to the house in a trench, and then breech the addition's foundation (block) , dig inside the crawlspace until I get down to the hole in the foundation, and then run the lines to the "surface" inside the crawlspace.  The best part about this plan would be that I don't have to breech the basement wall as well, since the addition's crawlspace attaches to a bricked over window in the basement.  I was already planning on knocking out that bricked over window so I could add a furnace vent in that room. 

Would it be perfectly acceptable to run the OWB water lines underground until I make it into the crawlspace, and then bring them to the surface and into the basement through that window?  It was my understanding that the water lines are already insulated so being on the surface inside an unconditioned crawlspace shouldn't matter.  Any thoughts?

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