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1
Portage & Main / Site glass ?
« on: October 25, 2015, 08:11:50 PM »
Has anyone ever installed a sight glass in you're boiler system. I would like to see the water flow as well as keep an eye on the water color. Mine is clear now, but I still like the idea of seeing the water. I've all but purchased a sprinkler sight glass and don't think I would have an issue with the high temps, but no manufacturer will give their blessing. It is made of brass and glass. I don't see an issue ... Anyone ?
Stay warm,,,
Stay warm,,,
2
Site Suggestions / Moderator question
« on: February 18, 2015, 07:33:34 PM »
I've noticed comments from other members stating how cold it is in their area, or questions from one member to another asking what part of the country they call home. Basically, would it be possible to add a field that a general, or specific, location can be added to our profiles ? Some may not want to update, but I think it would be cool (no pun intended) to see where a member lives that mentions temperatures, price of wood, or seasonal questions. I've shown my 2840 to several people in my area only to have been contacted by them asking what part of the state of KY I reside. By the way, I should have installed a wood boiler when I built my house 20 years ago ! Absolutely love it. Thanks in advance for all your comments to this post. Stay warm...
3
Portage & Main / Questions to get my house up and running.
« on: December 16, 2014, 06:34:30 PM »
I'm going to try and get further along on my house install. Shop working GREAT ! My wife says my priorities are mixed up. I disagree. Anyway, I have a 150' run of Logstor from boiler to house. Enters house ~ 3' higher than boiler. Going to use a plate exchanger to Xfer heat. Here are a few questions I have that would help me make some decisions on a design. I may have additional questions, so I'll apologize for any additional questions. Thanks in advance for anyone's input. Stay warm....
* HEAT EXCHANGER
Has anyone ever bought / used a plate exchanger from GEA ? Here is a link to size their plate exchanger ---> http://flatplateselect.com/site/pub/login.aspx?ReturnUrl=%2fsite%2fDefault.aspx
If not, what brands are well known ? These GEA plate exchangers are too $$$. Called about a 50 plate. Somewhere ~ 800.00 !!!
* GOING TO BUILD MY OWN HEADERS
What is the optimal spread between 1" x 1/2" copper tees. Should I just solder the T's with ~ 1" pipe between each T ?
Will include zone valves. Taco has a nice looking zone control module.
May be a silly question, but does the pump run constant ? I will assume not due to 'dead heading' the pump when no zone is calling for heat. Control module actuates pump when a zone valve opens ?
* OPEN vs. CLOSED systems
Does anyone run a cast pump in an open system ?
What are the pros / cons vs. the Taco Bumble Bee ( Delta T ) vs. Grundfos Alpha ( Delta P ) ?
* SIZING THE PRIMARY LOOP TO HOUSE FROM BOILER
Basically figure head for 300' of Logstor plus any fittings and plate exchanger. Size pump for whatever gpm the plate exchanger suggests ?
Use stainless or bronze pump for this loop or would a cast pump last many years ?
This pump would run constant....
* SIZING PUMP FOR CLOSED LOOP ( house )
Add up all loops for all zones and figure head for the 1/2" pex for all zones. Plus all fittings.
Take this total amount of head and combine with 1/2 gpm for each loop ? I was told that 1/2 gallon per minute is enough for each 1/2" pex loop.
Say I have 8 loops. This would be a 4 gpm pump at the figured head pressure ?
* HEAT EXCHANGER
Has anyone ever bought / used a plate exchanger from GEA ? Here is a link to size their plate exchanger ---> http://flatplateselect.com/site/pub/login.aspx?ReturnUrl=%2fsite%2fDefault.aspx
If not, what brands are well known ? These GEA plate exchangers are too $$$. Called about a 50 plate. Somewhere ~ 800.00 !!!
* GOING TO BUILD MY OWN HEADERS
What is the optimal spread between 1" x 1/2" copper tees. Should I just solder the T's with ~ 1" pipe between each T ?
Will include zone valves. Taco has a nice looking zone control module.
May be a silly question, but does the pump run constant ? I will assume not due to 'dead heading' the pump when no zone is calling for heat. Control module actuates pump when a zone valve opens ?
* OPEN vs. CLOSED systems
Does anyone run a cast pump in an open system ?
What are the pros / cons vs. the Taco Bumble Bee ( Delta T ) vs. Grundfos Alpha ( Delta P ) ?
* SIZING THE PRIMARY LOOP TO HOUSE FROM BOILER
Basically figure head for 300' of Logstor plus any fittings and plate exchanger. Size pump for whatever gpm the plate exchanger suggests ?
Use stainless or bronze pump for this loop or would a cast pump last many years ?
This pump would run constant....
* SIZING PUMP FOR CLOSED LOOP ( house )
Add up all loops for all zones and figure head for the 1/2" pex for all zones. Plus all fittings.
Take this total amount of head and combine with 1/2 gpm for each loop ? I was told that 1/2 gallon per minute is enough for each 1/2" pex loop.
Say I have 8 loops. This would be a 4 gpm pump at the figured head pressure ?
4
Portage & Main / Plate exchanger /pump size
« on: December 07, 2014, 08:35:11 PM »
I've read aLOT of posts on this subject and this may be boring or redundant to some, but I would like a veterans opinion. By recommendation, I'm going to make a primary loop to a house plate exchanger and a secondary loop inside the house out of the exchanger. I've got my 1/2 pex, UltraFin, #60 expansion tank, & Taco 4900 air separator. I'm going to order the Taco bumble bee for the Delta T feature inside the house. I did not see a BTU rating on the plate exchangers linked below. They do however comment on the number of plates and the corresponding uses. Should I be concerned with no BTU rating? I'm looking at 2 - 50 plate exchangers below. I'm going to call tomorrow to ask more technical questions ( GPM. pressure drop, etc.). I would also like to know if anyone has head multipliers for 1" Logstor, 1" copper, 1/2" pex and corresponding 90's. My Logstor is 150' from OWB. I was given a 35 GPM / 42' head Armstrong bronze pump that I would consider using for the primary loop. Any comments much appreciated. Stay warm....
http://www.amazon.com/50-Plate-Water-Heat-Exchanger/dp/B00LXCP6PS/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418004362&sr=1-10&keywords=Plate+exchanger
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OUTDOOR-WOOD-FURNACE-BOILER-BRAZED-PLATE-HEAT-EXCHANGER-50-Plate-/151106636653?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
http://www.amazon.com/50-Plate-Water-Heat-Exchanger/dp/B00LXCP6PS/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418004362&sr=1-10&keywords=Plate+exchanger
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OUTDOOR-WOOD-FURNACE-BOILER-BRAZED-PLATE-HEAT-EXCHANGER-50-Plate-/151106636653?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
5
Portage & Main / Bad aqua stat?
« on: December 03, 2014, 04:59:12 AM »
This morning I got up and the aquastat read 212° Blower was not running, water temperature was 100°. Water level was ok. Any ideas?
6
Portage & Main / 2840 Very HOT
« on: November 26, 2014, 09:17:45 PM »
Tonight I experienced what I would call the pre-stage to a boil over. I turned the shop fan coil fan to the on position. Calling for constant heat. I was in the shop for about 30 minutes and stepped out to, well, get another refreshing beverage.
Glanced over at the boiler and saw the float dancing from HEAVY steam. The aqua stat was still calling so I changed to 185 to shut down the blower. It was showing 187. I've had mine set at 190 +/- 10 since November 8, 2014. Never had an issue until tonight. Probably not an issue, but would like to hear a few comments. I was burning white oak from a 250 year old tree recently cut down. Yes. 250 year old white oak. Maybe the Gods have blessed me with exceptionally good wood. The stove was not overloaded and it is not THAT cold here. About 25 degrees outside. Shop was a toasty 74.
Glanced over at the boiler and saw the float dancing from HEAVY steam. The aqua stat was still calling so I changed to 185 to shut down the blower. It was showing 187. I've had mine set at 190 +/- 10 since November 8, 2014. Never had an issue until tonight. Probably not an issue, but would like to hear a few comments. I was burning white oak from a 250 year old tree recently cut down. Yes. 250 year old white oak. Maybe the Gods have blessed me with exceptionally good wood. The stove was not overloaded and it is not THAT cold here. About 25 degrees outside. Shop was a toasty 74.
7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / One pipe radiator steam conversion.
« on: November 22, 2014, 07:07:01 AM »
I may have jumped too early. I bought a beautiful cast iron radiator only to realize that it is a one pipe rad. I found a valve to convert to water, but I've read that only if the rad has push nipples across the top that this valve will work. This rad does not. It is only held together at the bottom. The fins are free standing, or nothing that hold them together. Looking forward to any help.
http://www.hydronicalternatives.com/getattachment/16707372-633d-4cff-a1c4-357fcfcaa8ef/Steam-to-Hot-Water-Conversion-Valve.aspx
http://www.hydronicalternatives.com/getattachment/16707372-633d-4cff-a1c4-357fcfcaa8ef/Steam-to-Hot-Water-Conversion-Valve.aspx
8
Portage & Main / BL 2840 install questions
« on: October 26, 2014, 09:08:38 AM »
Got the BL set and in place. Electric done. Getting ready to enter the house and have plenty of pipe to enter at any height. I could not go under the footer due to a LARGE rock. My question is ..... will the Logstor pex bend enough that I could make the desired long sweep 90 ?
If not, I'll use the supplied Logstor adapters and bend me a soft copper 90 as I have not found a refrigerant 90 that, in my opinion, is a true long sweep 90. Also, my shop fan coil is plumbed with 1/2" copper. Would it be best to just reduce to 1/2" when I enter the building or should I go for a ways w/ 3/4 copper then to the 1/2" at the fan coil. I also have been given an Armstrong Model 180200-660 ArmFlo E9B. I believe it is rated at ~ 35 fpm. My question is would it hurt anything to use this in my shop as I can reduce the flow with a valve on the fan coil ? Again, it was gave to me.... Looking to start my radiant floor heat next week. Going to use 1/2" pex with Ultra Fin. I've seen where this has been ran perpendicular with the floor joist. If I do run parallel with the joist can one get by with only running one pass then on to the next joist. Would two passes with Ultra Fin be overkill, or would even using only pex w/ the "loop" in each joist or two runs be sufficient. Thanks for any replies. Uponthehill ....
If not, I'll use the supplied Logstor adapters and bend me a soft copper 90 as I have not found a refrigerant 90 that, in my opinion, is a true long sweep 90. Also, my shop fan coil is plumbed with 1/2" copper. Would it be best to just reduce to 1/2" when I enter the building or should I go for a ways w/ 3/4 copper then to the 1/2" at the fan coil. I also have been given an Armstrong Model 180200-660 ArmFlo E9B. I believe it is rated at ~ 35 fpm. My question is would it hurt anything to use this in my shop as I can reduce the flow with a valve on the fan coil ? Again, it was gave to me.... Looking to start my radiant floor heat next week. Going to use 1/2" pex with Ultra Fin. I've seen where this has been ran perpendicular with the floor joist. If I do run parallel with the joist can one get by with only running one pass then on to the next joist. Would two passes with Ultra Fin be overkill, or would even using only pex w/ the "loop" in each joist or two runs be sufficient. Thanks for any replies. Uponthehill ....
9
Plumbing / Optimizing a side arm
« on: October 01, 2014, 03:55:20 PM »
I am going to make my own sidearm to custom fit my DWH. is there an optimal size for the two pieces of copper ? My length will be approx. 4 1/2 feet.
Thanks in advance for your replies...
Thanks in advance for your replies...
10
Portage & Main / Portage and Main in KY
« on: April 04, 2014, 03:20:26 PM »
I am looking at purchasing a Portage and Main (PM) vs. Central Boiler. I like the PM 2840 or 3444 but am curious on the efficiency vs. their 250 model. First of all, are there any KY users of PM and second, how many chords of wood did you burn this year 2013/2014? I have ~ 2500 sq.ft. house w/ ~ 1700 sq.ft. garage. I am going to install in the shop and pipe to the house (230 ft.). Wood will be dry in the shop, shop will be warm. Win / win. House and shop are well insulated. Any ideas / comments appreciated. If someone close to Elizabethtown or Louisville has one, I would love to stop by and see your PM unit. Thanks.
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