Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Electronics => Topic started by: froggy22 on September 04, 2011, 02:19:08 PM
-
Ok, here's the deal, I went to hook my shaver stove circulating pump off of the air handler central unit blower fan, to make the pump at the stove come on when the blower kicks on. BUT my central unit has no neutral connection going to it, so with my pump 120v one leg to neut. ant the other to a blower lead off the relay I always have 120v, my guess is that since one side of the blower is going to a constant hot and the other is off the relay, I'm getting 120 feed thru the motor from the constant side. question is this. What is the best way to get my 120v for the pump at the furnace. I need a way to provide a trigger. Could I get a 220 relay put it across the 220 fan leads and use a different 120v source thru that relay. I think I just answered my own question. :bash:
-
what are you using to heat your DHW?
I never wire one to have the pump kick on and off, with quality line you dont lose enough heat to worry about.
-
what are you using to heat your DHW?
I never wire one to have the pump kick on and off, with quality line you dont lose enough heat to worry about.
So your circ pumps run 24/7 for the heat exchanger? I have another pump and set of lines for the DHW, that have the coils at the stove and tie into the wh.
-
I don't think any good electrician would recommend pulling one leg of a 220 circuit to run a 110 pump. That seems to me to be asking for problems. If you don't get it right the first time chances are you might not get a second chance. By doing it that way you have no protection from a breaker. The proper way to do it is to put your pump on a separate 110 circuit and then use a relay run off the 24v that controls the fan to stop and start the pump.
-
what are you using to heat your DHW?
I never wire one to have the pump kick on and off, with quality line you dont lose enough heat to worry about.
So your circ pumps run 24/7 for the heat exchanger? I have another pump and set of lines for the DHW, that have the coils at the stove and tie into the wh.
Yea.. pump runs 24/7. Your way will work fine, it's kinda an old school set up like hardy has, but it will work, its just more complicated and more to go wrong.
-
what are you using to heat your DHW?
I never wire one to have the pump kick on and off, with quality line you dont lose enough heat to worry about.
So your circ pumps run 24/7 for the heat exchanger? I have another pump and set of lines for the DHW, that have the coils at the stove and tie into the wh.
Yea.. pump runs 24/7. Your way will work fine, it's kinda an old school set up like hardy has, but it will work, its just more complicated and more to go wrong.
Scott the tasco 011 pump is pretty hot to touch, on the top cooling fins, does this pump normally run hot to touch??????
-
Is your boiler on? Or are you just circulating water? I'm not real familiar with taco's but others i have messed with get warm, but how hot are you talking?
-
boiler on running 105 degrees at the time, the motor was hot to the point that you wouldnot want to hold your hand on it if it were much hotter
-
Are you sure all the air is out of it?
-
my taco 0011 runs as hot as the water in the lines...the pump is cast iron and conducts heat well. if you don't have the air out it will get extremely hot and then it will make a grinding noise (and likely damage will occur) this pump is lubricated by the water..no water big trouble will follow but you usually get a little grinding as a warning before it fails
-
I pulsed the lines by opening and closing valves and i have good heat out of heater ducts, I have to say I think it is purged of all air..
-
The pipes in and out of it were not as hot as the pump? Are you sure the temperature gauge was correct and it was only 105°?
-
Yep 105 as I had just started up the fire, But yes the pump was hotter than the water.