Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Central Boiler => Topic started by: Ridgekid on November 04, 2011, 06:39:32 PM
-
I think I'm going to pull the trigger and buy this: http://www.controlbyweb.com/x300/ (http://www.controlbyweb.com/x300/)
I know this is extreme, but I think it's a creative project to see what my heat load really is. Might even be educational for others.
It can take up to 8 probes and I already found a PoE splitter. So I saved $40 there. I already ran a Cat5 cable from my router to my Utility room where I will mount the Temp module.
Here's a outline of my system: http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?action=media;sa=item;in=159 (http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?action=media;sa=item;in=159)
You can see where I plan to put all 8 sensors. I plan to group them as "systems" Air, OWB Temps and DHW temps. I wish I knew what kind of software or "code" I would need to write in order to make all the temps show up on my outline. Anyone know what I would need?
-
Are you going to have it control the boiler too or just monitor temperatures?
Have you looked at the Wel monitor? I really like their setup but it is more expensive. It can monitor power usage and other stuff too though.
http://www.ourcoolhouse.com/monitor/monitor.htm (http://www.ourcoolhouse.com/monitor/monitor.htm)
-
Oh my! Can't wait till u have it up and running. It's just what i was wanting. :thumbup:
-
That will be a great research and learning tool! :thumbup:
That would be so cool to be able to watch what is going on at all different points.Then be able to find spots in your system to improve upon.
-
RSI-
I'm only wanting to monitor the 8 Temp sensors on my Chart. That's a very nice system you linked in there. Also pricey.
The temp module I'm looking at is a server. Do you think there is a way to access the "sensors" IP address\sensor address and link them on my graph? Does anyone know?
Jod d and Jackel440- Thanks for the feedback. It only took a month to get my webcams going, so I might have this project done by Christmas.
-
I don't really know anything about programming.
I have talked to a PHP programmer and he gave me an estimate of $2000 to do what I wanted for a single sensor unit.
-
I made a panel using 6 dig. panel meters with K type thermocouples to check the temps. leaving the OWB, entering the indoor furnace room, leaving the side arm, and leaving the HX going back to the OWB. Also chech the indoor furnace supply and return air temps. I also have a wire from the aquastat to a lamp on the panel to show when the inducer fan is on.
I can't get the pictures to load, but I will keep trying.
-
I made a panel using 6 dig. panel meters with K type thermocouples to check the temps. leaving the OWB, entering the indoor furnace room, leaving the side arm, and leaving the HX going back to the OWB. Also chech the indoor furnace supply and return air temps. I also have a wire from the aquastat to a lamp on the panel to show when the inducer fan is on.
I can't get the pictures to load, but I will keep trying.
I would be interested in seeing those pictures if you can get them working
-
Stayed up late last night reading the free owners manual for the Temp module. Found out it was Modbus capable. I know a little bit about "hosts" and "Addressing". Just not sure what kind of software I would need to "see" those addresses. Wonder if it would work with Microsoft publisher?
-
I made a panel using 6 dig. panel meters with K type thermocouples to check the temps. leaving the OWB, entering the indoor furnace room, leaving the side arm, and leaving the HX going back to the OWB. Also chech the indoor furnace supply and return air temps. I also have a wire from the aquastat to a lamp on the panel to show when the inducer fan is on.
I can't get the pictures to load, but I will keep trying.
Is everything close together? Thermocouples are very sensitive to wire changes.
-
RSI,
The picture that I have on the computer shows the temp at the OWB outlet at 168.5°F and the temp at the furnace room entrance is 168.3°F. the temp leaving the side arm is 166.8°F the temp leaving the HX is 163.7°F. I did have to adj. the meters to the differant thermocouples because they were not all the same. The best way that I found to callibrate was to check by using ice water. And it was a pain to get them to the 10th. of a degree. Also in the picture the neon lamp is lit, showing that the OWB induction fan is on.
-
Two stages of project complete:
1. The PoE splitter is mounted and Ethernet cables have connectors on them.
2. Ordered the Temp module.
Once I get the temp probes I have to get them all connected with the fewest number of cables. That means soldering and heat shrink. Then I'll boot up the module and make sure each sensor is configured to the right sensing port. Once that's complete I'll share what I have.
Then I'll get to work in getting those sensing ports connected to my outline of my system. I expect that will take longer.
-
RSI,
The picture that I have on the computer shows the temp at the OWB outlet at 168.5°F and the temp at the furnace room entrance is 168.3°F. the temp leaving the side arm is 166.8°F the temp leaving the HX is 163.7°F. I did have to adj. the meters to the differant thermocouples because they were not all the same. The best way that I found to callibrate was to check by using ice water. And it was a pain to get them to the 10th. of a degree. Also in the picture the neon lamp is lit, showing that the OWB induction fan is on.
Here is your picture.
(http://rsiboilers.com/owfi/Ronpic.jpg)
-
I don't think I got that. I got a second email that looked like it was the first forwarded. Was that pic different?
-
Was that a pre-made panel or did you have to cut all the holes for the displays?
-
(http://rsiboilers.com/owfi/Ronpic2.jpg)
(http://rsiboilers.com/owfi/Ronpic3.jpg)
-
Very nice panel display. Great Job! :thumbup:
-
Was that a pre-made panel or did you have to cut all the holes for the displays?
I bought the 12"x12" box at Lowes and cut the openings for the metrers and the neon lamp.
-
I need to give a heads up to jebatty (Jim) over on Hearth.com for helping me get started on this project. He pointed me in the right direction to start looking for the parts that I used.
I don't know if he checks in here, but if so thanks again Jim.
-
I would be very interested in this could you make a parts list, How much do you have into it ?
-
Buck,
I have sent you a PM.
RW
-
Very nice! :thumbup:
-
R W Ohio-
Did I read that right, that you also have this connected to a computer? How was that accomplished? What signal are you using?
I'm still moving ahead with my plans. I received a confirmation the Temp Module will be shipped today. Hopefully will receive by Friday so I have something to work on this weekend.
-
Ridgekid,
It is not connected to the computer, what I said to RSI was that I had pictures on the computer that I could'nt get to post.
RW
-
R W Ohio-
Ok- understand now. Ever look to see if those meters have output signals? 4-20ma or 0-5vdc?
I'm still trying to find info (after I get mine hooked to the computer) to show up on my outline drawing. I have went as far as emailing one of the guys in my controls group for suggestions.
I'm tracking my Temp Module, looks like Monday Nov 14th for delivery. Still crossing fingers for Friday.
-
Ridgekid,
The answer to your question is no. They only have input for the 120 volt power and the + and - for the thermocouples. I had thought about using a security cam and hooking it up to our tv network so that I could check the system operation while watching tv.
RW
-
Oh-That would be cool!
-
I would be very interested in this could you make a parts list, How much do you have into it ?
Me too. I am a total nerd for this kind of stuff. That looks super cool. Just need to add some flashing lights and maybe a nightrider strip along the bottom.
-
Muffin- They must of dropped us out of the same mold! So far the wife has put up with my ideas. She never agrees initially, until she sees how it turns out (IE webcams).
Just thought of another one. (Thanks to you) I think I'll string some Christmas lights on the Green Dragon after Thanksgiving. Now the question is do I want to put them on a timer or have them come on when she's in burn mode. 8)
-
Muffin- They must of dropped us out of the same mold! So far the wife has put up with my ideas. She never agrees initially, until she sees how it turns out (IE webcams).
Just thought of another one. (Thanks to you) I think I'll string some Christmas lights on the Green Dragon after Thanksgiving. Now the question is do I want to put them on a timer or have them come on when she's in burn mode. 8)
LOL, that would be awesome. Or better yet, get the color changing ones and make them shift colors when it is burning!!!! I am an electrical engineer, so these things are in my nature.
-
You are evil! >:D
Two strings then. One white, when she's in a burn and another with multiple lights for the season on a timer. I don't think I'll even tell the wife about this one, I'll just surprise her.
BTW- We decorate the first Saturday after Thanksgiving.
-
Here is something I have been playing with. It requires a computer to me running but can use I think up to 64 sensors. I only attached two to it right now.
http://www.fuji.rsixray.com/last.htm (http://www.fuji.rsixray.com/last.htm)
-
I like that one better than the other you you displayed. What two temps are those? It says boiler but I can't imagine your running yours at that low of temp.
-
This is at the office on the gas boiler. I have a loop that runs continuous and then when the thermostat calls for heat the boiler pumps hot water into it. I just shoved the probes under the pipe insulation so they are probably ready low too. I will turn up the thermostat for a little while so you can see it move. I think I have the boiler running at 140° right now.
This one it uploading what you see every 15 seconds to a web server.
The other one has a web server built into it and you connect directly to it. It doesn't need a computer running either or web hosting.
-
Thats Cool! I watched it go through a heat cycle. Refreshing my browser every 1-2 minutes. I see there was some data logging between 1-3PM. I assume you adjusted the clock to reflect actual local time?
-
I am not sure what that it. I was using it yesterday some and it might have mixed them or something.
-
So is this the same thing you offered before but different graphics? And now you can put up to 64 temp probes? Looks like you have a marketable item! We will have to compare notes when I get mine installed.
-
No, what I had before was a network device that connects directly to the internet.
This is a USB adapter that plugs into a computer and I have it uploading to my FTP server every 15 seconds. 15 seconds in the shortest it can set to. It can be set to as high as once per day (which would be kind of worthless)
I still like the other one better because it doesn't need a computer. The one probe tells me everything I need to know from my phone.
-
I'm still watching your graph. What happened at 1PM. All the previous data disappeared.
EDIT: Never mind. I see you moved the sensors.
-
The two of you are way to hi-tech for me, but it is fun to follow along.
RW
-
I just added another sensor and stuck it out the window.
I am not sure how long I will be able to keep this running. I have a cable strung through another guy's office and don't think he will like it when he sees it. He probably won't be in for a couple days though.
-
I'm impressed with the hardware you were using today. Seems pretty easy to set-up sensors. You going to give a hint what your using?
-
The sensors are the same as what the you will be getting with the monitor you ordered. They are connected to a USB interface.
-
In that case I hope mine setup as easy as yours!
-
I'm impressed with the hardware you were using today. Seems pretty easy to set-up sensors. You going to give a hint what your using?
That made me laugh. I just dug all the pieces out of the pile of junk on my desk.
-
I just looked and it looks like it broke at 4:30
I will have to see what happened to it tomorrow. I might need to find a better quality USB interface if I do try selling these.
-
RSI I volunteer to come clean off your desk for you.
-
I noticed it was off too. But thought it was because you went home. Maybe the computer went into sleep mode?
-
No, that computer stays on. I have my weather station on it that uploads to weather underground.
-
I actually found your weather station! cool!
-
How do you like the way the wind always comes from the north? Lol
-
I have not watched it long enough to see the constant north reading, but after checking it this morning I see it's still north. Is there a story behind that?
-
direction sensor quit working ...
-
You guys are WAY beyond my understanding capability. Does anyone have a camera that would withstand the heat of the burn box? That way I can prove to my wife that it is actually low on wood or she does not have it in there well enough to burn when I am not home. She claims she can only get it to 150 when she loads it, I am at 180+ without trying. I want to prove it can be done and the blower does not have to run all the time to make temp.
-
oldchenowth-
And we are thinking outside the box? That's a tall order. I know many power plants use them to monitor their boilers. Over a period of time all you can see is if there is fire in the box because the lenses gets dirty pretty fast. With wood burning I imagine this would occur a lot sooner due to creosote build-up. I also bet the cost of one of these cameras are very expensive.
How were you going to attach it? Drill a hole through the door? Just curious.
I know I have done a lot of things to improve my "monitoring" of our OWB, but this one I'll have to pass on.
-
oldchenowth-
And we are thinking outside the box? That's a tall order. I know many power plants use them to monitor their boilers. Over a period of time all you can see is if there is fire in the box because the lenses gets dirty pretty fast. With wood burning I imagine this would occur a lot sooner due to creosote build-up. I also bet the cost of one of these cameras are very expensive.
How were you going to attach it? Drill a hole through the door? Just curious.
I know I have done a lot of things to improve my "monitoring" of our OWB, but this one I'll have to pass on.
Yeah, the lens will be covered just like everything else in the firebox.
I think I saw one a while ago that used compressed air to keep the lens cool and clean but it probably cost more than the boiler. Lol
-
Current status of my temp module. So no chance of getting it before the weekend-
Lenexa, KS, United States 11/10/2011 3:16 A.M. Departure Scan
RSI-
Checked your weather station. I see the "cold front" came through by you at 6PM yesterday. It came through here at 2 am this morning. So about 8 hours from Central Wisconsin to Western Pa.
Also just checked your temp link. I see two logs now. The second one looks better as you can see the actual range of operation.
-
Oh boy! Going to be a fun weekend after all. It's out on the truck for delivery!!!
Hopefully before the end of weekend I'll have something to share with you all!
-
I will be watching. Good luck with it.
RW
-
Thanks! (I'll probably need it)
-
Current status of my temp module. So no chance of getting it before the weekend-
Lenexa, KS, United States 11/10/2011 3:16 A.M. Departure Scan
RSI-
Checked your weather station. I see the "cold front" came through by you at 6PM yesterday. It came through here at 2 am this morning. So about 8 hours from Central Wisconsin to Western Pa.
Also just checked your temp link. I see two logs now. The second one looks better as you can see the actual range of operation.
My weather station was doing something weird Wednesday. If you look at the temperature of the sensor I put out the window, it was 10° lower than the weather station was reading. (weather station was wrong) Yesterday they were withing 1/2° pretty much all day. The only thing I can thing of that would have caused that is the weather station sensor was probably plastered with snow. Or maybe it was 10° warmer 30' higher up? Lol
The second picture is the weekly view. The boiler I have the probes on apparently cycles a lot.
The stupid computer did a windows update this morning and shut off so it quit logging then.
-
My weather station reports warmer temps, especially if the sun i shining. It's mounted 10' above my roof line which is two stories.
I'm still going to use the daily average reported for my wood consumption report.
-
oldchenowth-
And we are thinking outside the box? That's a tall order. I know many power plants use them to monitor their boilers. Over a period of time all you can see is if there is fire in the box because the lenses gets dirty pretty fast. With wood burning I imagine this would occur a lot sooner due to creosote build-up. I also bet the cost of one of these cameras are very expensive.
How were you going to attach it? Drill a hole through the door? Just curious.
I know I have done a lot of things to improve my "monitoring" of our OWB, but this one I'll have to pass on.
Here is an idea.Get a blast gate valve like I installe on my furnace's gasification chamber door.Mount the camera to it.Have an actuater open the slide gate and the camera could look through the glass and see the burn.Then the actuater would then close the blast gate.Ta Daaa!!!http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?topic=642.105
Here on page 8 you can see the blast valve with the sight glass.Just mount camera in fron of it.
-
oldchenowth-
And we are thinking outside the box? That's a tall order. I know many power plants use them to monitor their boilers. Over a period of time all you can see is if there is fire in the box because the lenses gets dirty pretty fast. With wood burning I imagine this would occur a lot sooner due to creosote build-up. I also bet the cost of one of these cameras are very expensive.
How were you going to attach it? Drill a hole through the door? Just curious.
I know I have done a lot of things to improve my "monitoring" of our OWB, but this one I'll have to pass on.
Here is an idea.Get a blast gate valve like I installe on my furnace's gasification chamber door.Mount the camera to it.Have an actuater open the slide gate and the camera could look through the glass and see the burn.Then the actuater would then close the blast gate.Ta Da!!!
How good would that work in the firebox though? Is there enough fire to light it enough for the camera to see anything? If I open the door on mine just after it was running the smoke is so thick you can't see through it even with a real bright flashlight. A while after it shuts down though it would probably work if you can get light in there.
-
I got it! Here's what I had to do to get this far-
1. First I had to get my router to recognize it. In order to do that I had to hook my laptop directly to it and set the TCP to the default of the module (192.168.1.50) then I could go in and change it to my LAN IP address (192.168.xxx.xx)
2. Next- I connected each temp sensor one at time. I used the User interface to rename sensors to a name (instead of a number) and save it. I then tagged the sensors for the slot I had reserved.
3. Next I had to make a cable to connect the sensors. I'm putting four on each cable run (you can daisy chain them). If you recall my graph (pdf file) I posted I now have the first four sensors connected. Air in/ out of air handler and Water in/out of HX.
4. I set up one of the relays to react with sensor 3 temp by indicating if the Green Dragon was in stand-by or a Burn.
The first issue I noticed was my meat thermometer was only 1-2 degree difference, but these digital ones are 8 degree difference. (reading low) I don't think I can calibrate them. ??
This temp module is a "server" and I need a place to post my temps. Kinda like my weather station. any ideas?
It has data logging capabilities, but only as a text file. I want to save in Excel so I can graph. I opened the file in excel but it did not format it correctly.
OK that's all I got for now. Thanks goodness its the weekend so I can sleep in!
-
Another update: This is to report temps I am seeing on the four sensors on line:
Air in/out HX When fan is running I get about 70-72F in and 130-135F out
HX- When Idle I see a 2F drop across the heat HX. With the fan on I get a 15F drop.
I've decided to use all three relays provided. One when tell me when the Green Dragon is in Standby or a burn, another will tell me when the air handler is on or off and finally I will use the third to show if we are using HW to the house.
Oh yeah, one more thing. I got the senors within 5F of actual. When I thought the aluminum tape I was using might interfere with the reading I went with a wire tie. WRONG, that made it worse. So I wrapped the sensors a little better with the aluminum tape. EXCEPT for the air handler sensors. I just poked a hole in the duct work (Fiberboard) and push the sensor in and taped up the opening.
With any luck I hope to have my temp page posted some where before the end of the weekend. Cross your fingers!
-
Sample page:
Air Handler In 67.7 °F
Air Handler Out 72.0 °F
OWB to HX 178.2 °F
HX to DHWX 175.6 °F < this senor is reading 2F low. Not sure if it can be changed.
DHWX to OWB 177.2 °F
Well Water to DHWX 58.3 °F
DHWX to HWH 156.5 °F
HWH to House 137.6 °F
Green Dragon STANDBY < this relay is controlled by OWB to HX temp (on) and DHWX to OWB Temp (Off)
Air Handler Fan OFF <This relay is controlled by Air handler out temp. >125F on <125F off
HW being used NO <This relay is controlled by HWH to House. <140F Yes <140F NO
Current Time: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:30:50
-
I think insulating the probes will help. I have just been using electrical tape to strap the probe on and how tight I gets it makes a difference. I will probably try the aluminum tape.
To get more accurate readings on pipes you could just get some of the DS18b20 chips and use them instead of the probes. One less layer of metal would help a lot.
-
Here is a ebay listing for some. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-4-DS18B20-18B20-Digital-Temperature-Sensor-/370544609262?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56462e07ee (http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-4-DS18B20-18B20-Digital-Temperature-Sensor-/370544609262?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56462e07ee)
That is all that is inside the probes you have.
-
Thanks RSI.
Here's a real good picture of my heat load when the air handler and HW is being used: If you read it right, you can see I'm pulling 30F out of the OWB water before it returns to OWB when the air handler is on and HW is being used. Since my DHWX is downstream of the HX I am only putting 162F water into my HWH. Hence why I use my HWH as a storage tank and not using a mixing valve.
Air Handler In 73.6 °F
Air Handler Out 133.1 °F
OWB to HX 179.2 °F
HX to DHWX 162.6 °F
DHWX to OWB 149.3 °F
Well Water to DHWX 52.0 °F
DHWX to HWH 162.6 °F
HWH to House 146.8 °F
Green Dragon STANDBY
Air Handler Fan ON
HW being used YES
Current Time: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 07:51:31
Due to the limitations of Excel, (255 line limit) I was able to create this chart. It reflects two hours of operation after we woke up this morning. It was flat lined all night.
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=162 (http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=162)
-
RSI- Thanks for the link. I opted for option two. Wrapping insulation around transmitters. They seem to be within 3 degrees of actual now. I can live with that.
I posted pics in the gallery.
-
Ridgekid, the numbers that you posted look a lot like the ones that I see on my monitoring panel, thanks for the post.
RW
-
Thanks RW.
It sure gives a clearer picture of how much heat load you have on your system doesn't it?
-
Isn't it neet to watch the temps change from point to point when the OWB comes on.
-
It sure is!!
-
Link removed. I think there were a lot of lurkers out there and it was bogging down my personal use.
Sorry~
-
I know more about your house that I do about my own! :post: It's pretty cool that I can monitor your house from clear across the country real time, but I'm still having to go down to our basement to see what my heat is coming from the OWB, then outside to check on the OWB.
That is one sophisticated setup you have there and we are all jealous!
-
Yeah what he said ^ LOL
-
MTJAG-
Your really going to hate this. I have it linked to my Iphone, so I don't even have to start the computer to "see" what the Green Dragon is doing. If I'm on one of my business trips, I can call the wife and tell her when to add wood! That's the main purpose of this set-up-to monitor when I'm away.
Now, as far as sharing. Some of shown interest in "seeing" what the heat load is on a OWB. Since I did not install my system the conventional way. (DHWX before HX) I can share what the results are for using my DHWX after my HX and using the HWH as a storage tank. After a month of use I am satisfied with my setup and while not using a mixing valve feel comfortable on keeping it this way.
Another reason for this set-up. I called yoderheating shortly after my initial install back in April. I had discovered my HX did NOT fill the plenum. (installed by CB dealer) I had a one inch gap on one side. I felt too much air would bypass the heat exchanger. He put my concern to rest after I explained I had a heat pump and he replied that fully filling the plenum would not allow enough air flow through my AC coil during the summer months and could cause icing. After this last summer use of the AC, I had no issues. Now that I'm in heat mode I also noted no issues. Not with 135F air coming out of the vents!
Back to the temp module- There are two items I still want to get working. Email pushes for when the Green Dragon comes on and the possibility to get connected to AVWorkz. At AVWorks, I'll be able to select which sensors I want to graph. They offer free service for X300 residential monitors ($49/yr for data logging per two sensors). I'm just looking for the free service as I have no real reason to data log.
Xytronix is working with me to get the sensors calibrated closer to actual values. (Reading 3-4F low) They are going to add a calibration feature to add/subtract values from "read" values. This will require a firmware update.
So that's it in a nutshell.
-
Thanks to the efforts of Xytronix we got my email alerts to work today.
AVWorks is a small company and are working on a large project. They promise to contact me soon. (per Xytronics).
In short Xytronics has great customer support!!
-
MTJAG-
Your really going to hate this. I have it linked to my Iphone, so I don't even have to start the computer to "see" what the Green Dragon is doing. If I'm on one of my business trips, I can call the wife and tell her when to add wood! That's the main purpose of this set-up-to monitor when I'm away.
Now, as far as sharing. Some of shown interest in "seeing" what the heat load is on a OWB. Since I did not install my system the conventional way. (DHWX before HX) I can share what the results are for using my DHWX after my HX and using the HWH as a storage tank. After a month of use I am satisfied with my setup and while not using a mixing valve feel comfortable on keeping it this way.
Another reason for this set-up. I called yoderheating shortly after my initial install back in April. I had discovered my HX did NOT fill the plenum. (installed by CB dealer) I had a one inch gap on one side. I felt too much air would bypass the heat exchanger. He put my concern to rest after I explained I had a heat pump and he replied that fully filling the plenum would not allow enough air flow through my AC coil during the summer months and could cause icing. After this last summer use of the AC, I had no issues. Now that I'm in heat mode I also noted no issues. Not with 135F air coming out of the vents!
Back to the temp module- There are two items I still want to get working. Email pushes for when the Green Dragon comes on and the possibility to get connected to AVWorkz. At AVWorks, I'll be able to select which sensors I want to graph. They offer free service for X300 residential monitors ($49/yr for data logging per two sensors). I'm just looking for the free service as I have no real reason to data log.
Xytronix is working with me to get the sensors calibrated closer to actual values. (Reading 3-4F low) They are going to add a calibration feature to add/subtract values from "read" values. This will require a firmware update.
So that's it in a nutshell.
There's an app for that! That is really cool... 8)
-
APP? I wish! Actually used the IPhone browser Safari and linked my webpage then saved it to the home screen.
-
I previously removed the link because I thought too many people were bogging down my link. Come to find out the issue was on my end. Instead of me using my LAN address I was trying to use the DNS address. Trying to send a request through the same router that will deliver that command was bogging down the router.
So here it is again if your interested. Let me know if works. (or doesn't).
http://ridgekid.dyndns.org:8080/index.html (http://ridgekid.dyndns.org:8080/index.html)
-
Ridgekid,
"I can call the wife and tell her when to add wood! That's the main purpose of this set-up-to monitor when I'm away."
I don't think even with your set up that I could get my wife to reload the boiler.
I shared with her one of my experiences with opening the door to quick without letting it clear the chamber, it was some what of a scene out of "Backdraft" and that is all she needed to remind me that she still knows how to fire up the propane!
Church
-
Church-
She can actually refill it without my help, I was just trying to be humorous.
Although the real test is coming for her to babysit the Green Dragon for more than one feeding. More on that later.
-
I just ordered my temp monitoring equipment from controlbyweb.com as well.
I chose to order the X300-I model that comes with the 12VDC power supply instead of the POE model, and ordered 6 additional temp sensors and one wall mount temp/humidity sensor for the basement.
Can't wait till it arrives on Monday!
-
Awesome. If you think you'll need help setting it up let me know. I'll pm you my phone number.
-
Ok, thanks. I tried the wireless smoker thermometers you originally were using, but I find that the range is insufficient. They don't work even when the receiving unit is about 10 feet away and seperated only by the floor. So I like this a lot better. I was actually searching for something like the controlbyweb setup for weeks to no avail.
-
Surprised they didn't work better. I had my transmitters in the basement and was able to obtain readings on the second floor of our house.
Let's discuss your new temp module, then I'll pm my phone number.
1. Download a copy of the users manual and start reading it. You don't get one with the module.
2. You'll have to get access to the module first. They use a default IP address that required me to set up a temporary TCP port so I could find it. Once you change the module to the IP address to match your network, don't forget to set the TCP port back to it's original setting. OH and very important: The IP changes you make to the module don't take effect until you reboot the module. Only network changes require reboots.
3. Next- You want temperature module right? They ship them as thermostats. There is a small pin hole on the bottom of the module for master reset. Power down your module, depress reset and hold while you power up. Wait for the yellow light to start blinking. You now have 1 minute to get back to the User interface and switch it from thermostat to thermometer on the main menu. You only have to do this once it will always remember your choice even in power outages. Always click SUBMIT when you make a change.
4. Now you have to Identify all your sensors. Plug (wire) each one in one at a time. Go to user interface on the sensor tab. Click sensor one, do to drop down window and it will show you the address for the digital sensor. Now click submit. Tag that sensor #1. Write down the address. When you do the next sensor, go to sensor two, click drop down window you will see two address's. Click the new address not previous recorded. Click submit. Record number. Tag sensor- Repeat until all sensors have been identified.
5. Now you have to build your "Daisey chain". I used two cables, four sensors on each. It will really depend on how long your run is. There is a limit how far you can go with 8 sensors. Can't remember what that is as I'm typing all of this from memory. They recommend Ethernet cable (CAT 5) to use as cable runs. The sensors use Black, red and blue wires. Ethernet wire is paired as Green, orange, brown, blue and yellow? I went blue to blue, red to green and black to yellow. I also only used single strand (not the paired wires) on the ethernet cable.
6. Wire your harness into the module.
7. Go to the user interface and start from sensor one and select the address you saved. (and wrote down). If you decide to use a different sensor for sensor one because you put your sensors in the wrong place? no problem. you can switch it now through the drop down window. After you select the sensor address you can change "Sensor One to what ever name you want.
Your up and running! The next part is setting up alarms, relays and email pushes. We can talk about that later.
PM on the way!
-
Church-
It's later........
I went out of town for 4 days. Guess who had to take care of the Green Dragon? Yep the wifeee! She didn't do too bad. I know I didn't give her a fair start either. I decided to clean out some ashes before I left. BIG MISTAKE! It was right before the cold spell that hit us on Wednesday and the Green Dragon was going through burn cycles every two hours. I thought she broke it! Come to find out she was raking ashes every time she went out to stock it. Without that "base" of embers the fire had a hard time keeping up. It did better yesterday and today.
She didn't even say hello when I came in the door. "It's all yours! Better go see if it needs wood" I go out and open the door and the wood is all over the place. Single layer! So I built a pyramid with what she had scattered inside and added 7 more pieces on top of that. Got to get that ember base built up again!
From midnight to 6PM she had 9 burns (one every two hours) I've been home for 5 hours and we have had ONE BURN! I guess she needs to be retrained. (oops , did I say that out loud??)
For those interested, I was in Huntington-WV, Haverhill-Ohio, Madison-In and Carrollton (Ghent) KY. About 1200 miles round trip in 4 days. Always great to be home.
-
Ridge, the next time you are in Madison let me know and I will buy the first round LOL.
-
Will do!
-
Hello Ridgekid,
Glad to hear all went well in your absence with your wife taking care of the home fires. She made the attempt as would mine if need be I believe so I have to give her credit for that. I just have to get her over the idea of just tossing in the wood and shutting the door. She feels that as long as the house is warm all is well and working, I won't even attempt to retrain her, after 30 years we pretty much know what one will and will not do, but it works for us. Compromise / respect is the answer. I now have to get the domestic water on line, new washer installed late yesterday and she wants to use that option. I am leaning toward the installation of the flat pate after the HX then to the DHWX on the cold inlet. I have let the fire get low and if I installed as an on demand set up that would not be good if she had to endure a cold shower because of me. Not sure of the plate sizing as of yet, we are plumbed with 1" copper from the pex, any suggestions?
Again glad to hear all went well, I would have to beleive she would do it again if need be for you.
Church
-
Church
My wife (28.5 years) knows if she wants HW she will have to keep wood in the green dragon. So that's the motivator!!!!
For domestic hot water I used a 20 plate. I have a outline of my setup in the gallery. This setup has worked well for us delivering 140-150* water out of the taps. Our dishwasher has never been cleaner! And our clothes are cleaner too. So you won't regret the investment. I saved half the cost by installing it myself.
Btw- not noted in my gallery. All the pex lines in the basement are insulated.
-
Kudos for 1" copper. I used it as well, then put insulation around it. Cost more, but I felt I could run it the way I wanted without the large radius of pex. I figure that upsizing to 1" ID from the nominal ID of .83 of 1" PEX would help make up for pressure losses associated with having to use els.
However I plumbed my 20 plste xchanger agead of my furnace exchanger. I think that part of the rationale for doing it this way is that you can avoid sending hot water thru the furnace exchanger in the summer if you are still heating the DHW with your boiler in the summer by having a three way valve at the plate exchanger.
I accomplshed the same thing by having a 3-way zone valve at my furnace exchanger which is operated by my thermostat. This way I don't have boiler water circulating through my furnace exchanger 24x7 and can keep the furnace blower on if I choose.
I feel I went way overboard on the plumbing, but since I did the work myself it was more affordable.
Just another way to skin the cat.
-
My X-300 came yesterday. I spent a couple of hours and accomplished the following:
1) Got 8 sensors programmed to work with it. That was probably the most tedious part of the install. Six are the temp only sensors, the other a the wall mounted Temp/Humidity sensor which actually has 2 sensors in it, one for temp and the other for humidity.
2) Installed and configured X-300 in basement and connected to my network.
3) Wired 2 pairs of temp sensors to two Cat-5 cables and connected to X-300.
a) One pair is monitoring OWB temp as soon as it enters house and as it leaves house to return to boiler. This is accomplished ahead of the thermostatic control valve.
b) Second pair is monitoring at the 20 plate exchanger. First the boiler water in temp, and second, the heated domestic water into the 50 gallon water heater (storage tank).
4) Connected the wall mounted temp/humidity sensor to tell me of basement conditions.
5) Last two temp sensors will be installed to monitor the temp of the boiler water as it enters the water/air exchanger in my furnace plenum, and the boiler water as it enters the air/water exchanger in the garage.
For what it's worth, my temps are in total agreement (within the accuracy of the sensors anyway) with the OWB controller temp display.
When I installed the basement plumbing I used 1" copper throughout. I attached the temp sensors to the copper pipes using aluminum foil tape. Wrapped tape about 3 times around pipe, and then covered with foam pipe insulation.
So I got the SMTP email notifications working with GMX mail as Ridgekid suggested.
The crappy DSL modem I have from CenturyLink will not forward html requests into my network despite the fact that I configured it to do so, so I am planning on turning off its firewall and NAT router and replacing that portion with a more configurable router. Then I will be able to view the real time temps from outside, ie. on my iPhone.
I'm now looking for a small/inexpensive tablet with WiFi that I can configure not to go to sleep and mount it on the wall next to my Ecobee thermostat so I can see the temps easily. Not sure what it will be, but I really want to keep the acquisition cost at or below $100.
-
My X-300 came yesterday. I spent a couple of hours and accomplished the following:
1) Got 8 sensors programmed to work with it. That was probably the most tedious part of the install. Six are the temp only sensors, the other a the wall mounted Temp/Humidity sensor which actually has 2 sensors in it, one for temp and the other for humidity.
2) Installed and configured X-300 in basement and connected to my network.
3) Wired 2 pairs of temp sensors to two Cat-5 cables and connected to X-300.
a) One pair is monitoring OWB temp as soon as it enters house and as it leaves house to return to boiler. This is accomplished ahead of the thermostatic control valve.
b) Second pair is monitoring at the 20 plate exchanger. First the boiler water in temp, and second, the heated domestic water into the 50 gallon water heater (storage tank).
4) Connected the wall mounted temp/humidity sensor to tell me of basement conditions.
5) Last two temp sensors will be installed to monitor the temp of the boiler water as it enters the water/air exchanger in my furnace plenum, and the boiler water as it enters the air/water exchanger in the garage.
For what it's worth, my temps are in total agreement (within the accuracy of the sensors anyway) with the OWB controller temp display.
When I installed the basement plumbing I used 1" copper throughout. I attached the temp sensors to the copper pipes using aluminum foil tape. Wrapped tape about 3 times around pipe, and then covered with foam pipe insulation.
So I got the SMTP email notifications working with GMX mail as Ridgekid suggested.
The crappy DSL modem I have from CenturyLink will not forward html requests into my network despite the fact that I configured it to do so, so I am planning on turning off its firewall and NAT router and replacing that portion with a more configurable router. Then I will be able to view the real time temps from outside, ie. on my iPhone.
I'm now looking for a small/inexpensive tablet with WiFi that I can configure not to go to sleep and mount it on the wall next to my Ecobee thermostat so I can see the temps easily. Not sure what it will be, but I really want to keep the acquisition cost at or below $100.
Take a look at Sony Dash or a Chumby. I have seen them in the $50-$80 price range and look like they would do what you want.
Do you have separate router and dsl model?
-
RSI, thanks for the suggestions.
No, this is a combination DSL modem and NAT router, but the configuration allows for disabling the router and the firewall, assuming that the configuration actually works. I say assuming it works, since I have port 80 configured for pass through but that isn't working.
-
You will probably have to forward a different port to 80. Most ISP's block port 80.
-
Wow you did you GOOD! Your more computer savvy then me!
So you did get GMX to work? That's great. I had trouble with the Port for emails and controlbyweb found the correct one for me.
Keep in mind there is going to be a calibration capability in the next firmware update. Probably sometime at the beginning of the year. (just in case you need it)
I went with a 32GB Ipad2 wireless (no 3G) for home use. Sure beats using the Iphone at home. Yeah, I know no where in your price range. Bought mine at Radio Shack and got a $50 gift card for the purchase. A week later they upped it to $100 :bash:
Do you have plans to share your setup? I for one would like to see it!
Again, Congrats on your install!
-
RSI is right. Port 80 is just too crowded. And is vulnerable to "bots and spiders" (so I've been told). I changed the ports for both my webcams and X300 and so far my firewall and anti-virus has not had to work to hard. CPU is quieter too.
(CPU is only issue for webcams not for X300)
-
RSI is right. Port 80 is just too crowded. And is vulnerable to "bots and spiders" (so I've been told). I changed the ports for both my webcams and X300 and so far my firewall and anti-virus has not had to work to hard. CPU is quieter too.
(CPU is only issue for webcams not for X300)
The reason they block it is to discourage hosting websites on your DSL or cable connection. Port 80 is what websites use.
-
Yes, I have plans to document my install complete with pics. Still have a few things to do, including getting the garage heat hooked up which I hope to get done this week. BTW, I hand built the plenum for my heat exchanger. I am pretty proud of the work!
As for port 80, my ISP is not blocking it. My stupid modem has a an http server for configuration as most do. Problem is, that even when I configure it to only respond on my LAN, it still responds from the Internet and I get the configuration logon. It's a piece of crap!
I might try changing the port, but I am probably going to get a new router.
-
You are getting the router login on port 80? (or not adding any port to your IP)
They usually use something like 8050 for remote management. Did you turn that option off?
I would not turn the firewall off. You would be better off turning on DMZ and pointing it to the x-300's IP address.
-
RSI-
FYI- The unit really doesn't require remote management once it setup. Just finding a way to get remote monitoring is the key.
Like I stated earlier in this link, trying to look at the X300 through a router via DNS address was a bottleneck for my router. Once I pointed my LAN based hardware (IE computer, IPAD and Iphone) to a LAN address the problem went away. I can still use my DNS address when I'm away.
-
RSI-
FYI- The unit really doesn't require remote management once it setup. Just finding a way to get remote monitoring is the key.
Like I stated earlier in this link, trying to look at the X300 through a router via DNS address was a bottleneck for my router. Once I pointed my LAN based hardware (IE computer, IPAD and Iphone) to a LAN address the problem went away. I can still use my DNS address when I'm away.
I was talking about remote management on the router.
-
You are getting the router login on port 80? (or not adding any port to your IP)
They usually use something like 8050 for remote management. Did you turn that option off?
I would not turn the firewall off. You would be better off turning on DMZ and pointing it to the x-300's IP address.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Yes, router logon is on port 80.
I won't be turning off the firewall willy-nilly. I have to acquire a replacement first.
Like I said, I already tried to configure port forwarding and it is not working.
-
Missed understood you RSI- Sorry
GM-Not sure what router you have, but I could not go through my router and add a port. So I used this instead:
http://portforward.com/ (http://portforward.com/)
I'm not sure what they do different, but it worked!
-
I assume you are using the right IP but thought I would make sure, you are entering the number you see at the bottom of your posts? (where is says logged for everyone else)
Using port 80 all you need it the IP address.
-
Gm-
After New Years we will be able to register with Avworkz. We will then be able to graph our readings. It supposed to be a free service. The reason for the delay is cuz Avworkz is installing a new server.
-
Ridgekid - thanks for the help yesterday and the information!
-
OK, I got the port forwarding working!
I forgot that these NAT routers will not allow you to access ports you have forwarded through them, from a computer that is on your local network which is trying to go out to the Internet to do so. Hope that makes sense to people.
I had to turn off the WiFi on my iPhone so it could connect from the internet since it is the only device I have that has Internet access other than through my router.