Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: pintopaul on November 17, 2011, 01:28:19 PM
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can someone answer a question for me my outdoor wood boiler has been hooked for for 3 weeks but only fired for a couple days ,i'm having a problem with it getting to hot water over 200. its just smoldering its not like its a rapid burn its an older wood master 434 . the tempature here has been as low as 25 and as high as 48. thanks paul
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Sorry you're having problems. First I would check to see if the stove is getting air(door seals), make sure all pumps are pumping and check water level. I would bet it's getting air.
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i read another post some where that said to plug off the chimney to see if you see smoke coming from the door or any wheres, nothing showed near the door but i did notice a small trace by the pull handle for the damper and i mean its small less than someones cig. i opened it back up and opened the door with the damper closed and its just smoldering no flame jumping. i'm confused. pump is pumping i turned up the thermostat in the house its now 92 inside 39 outside.
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If you are not seeing any steam it may be that your thermometer is wrong. Do you have any way to check the thermometer?
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your stove should not be overheating if the outside temp is in the 30's for sure. the only way for your water to go over the set temp of your stove is ---- 1-if your aquastat is not working and your damper is staying open....2-your door seal or another seal is leaking allowing air to get to the fire after your set temp is reached..........3-your fire box has a crack on a seam or some where ohter than the where it meets the water jacket?
another way is your set temp is too high for mild weather
for your water to over heat the fire has to be burning (even what you may think is smoldering) and creating more heat then you are using (or losing) and for that to happen the fire has to be drawing air from somewhere. i think you need to be more vigilant in your search
if you are one of the people who does not move water when your stove is idling (when none of your "appliances" are calling for heat) this may cause it also. usually there is a small amount of heat loss in yoru underground pipes and the pipes in your house. this "heat loss" will help keep your stove from overheating
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my pump runs 24/7 i know its boiling over 1 due to the steam and the fact i can hear it bubbling. gauge is working. now to the stat on the back of the furnace i did turn it to 150 like i was told on another listing on this site. fan on front of the furnace should only come on when the stat on the back calls for it right? i turned it back down to 100 where it was set. as far as cracks go i'd see either water in the fire box or smoke coming out from the metal on the sides right? i know this is an older model but it wasnt used much it should have plenty of life left.
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Have you checked to make sure the air shutoff is sealing properly and the solenoid is working? If it is rubber, check for cracks.
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air shut off??????????
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Bottom line is that there is air going into your firebox when it's not needed, if it was all working properly you could set it at 160 and it would only slightly spike over regardless of the outside temp
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so wheres the air shut off on the door? i know the blower is there and a flapper valve the valve does work but i never checked to see if it closes all the way...
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Somewhere, probably around the flap or door something is allowing air into the firebox, it has to seal perfectly, if you have a tiny gap anywhere thats enough to overheat a stove
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Covering the chimney while the fan is running probably will not work with a woodmaster because the fan is on the door. Like everyone else is saying, you are getting air into the stove when it should be shut off. Its either at the door seal or the fan.
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Sounds like to me the fire is getting air somewhere.. or the pump isn't working...Im assuming the pump is working...Something isn't seating right
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thanks all. i took the cover off the door to check the flapper and you guys are good .the flapper isnt closing aall the way the metal flapper doesnt close its about 1/4 of inch away from closing all the way the solenoid is working to open it but only closes half way when it reaches temp to shut off. now question does anyone know anything about the 434 wood master damper solenoid ? thanks paul THIS SITE HAS REALY HELP A NEWBIE THANKS ALL
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Is it the solenoid that won't go out all the way? I have seen them overheat and swell some.
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if i pull down on the damper it will close but not till i pull down , when the power goes off to the solenoid it closes alittle like half way if i pull down it will close all the way. there is an adjustment but its not enough not sure if something is missing under the damper or if the solenoid is bad thats why its not closing. i cant find any break down on this model any wheres its a wood master 434 if someone knows where i can get pictures of this set up. thanks paul
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What if you try spraying wd 40 or something like it in the solenoid shafts and work it a few times and see if it will close all the way.
RW
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WD 40 works great for stickies and if this don't work can you add a little weight to it.
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ok i will try it , no wd40 i have engage penetrant
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I would take the solenoid off and if there is any drag at all in it I would order a new one. They are supposed to be a real lose fit.
If it has junk in it then cleaning it out might work too.
The solenoid is the same on most brands of boilers. You can get them from Grainger for about the same price as anywhere after the shipping is added on.
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again i would like to say thanks to everyone, you saved me again.... :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Probley the flapper needs to be replaced. They get old and the rubber gets hard. Woodmaster site has parts that you can order direct.
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ordered new solenoid last night after i jery rigged it with a paper clip :bag:, what a differance now it stays at 160 like the aquastat is set at . you guys are great again thanks
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thanks all. i took the cover off the door to check the flapper and you guys are good .the flapper isnt closing aall the way the metal flapper doesnt close its about 1/4 of inch away from closing all the way the solenoid is working to open it but only closes half way when it reaches temp to shut off. now question does anyone know anything about the 434 wood master damper solenoid ? thanks paul THIS SITE HAS REALY HELP A NEWBIE THANKS ALL
Paul,
THIS website ROCKS!!!!!! I've learned so much since firing up my Shaver back October 28th. I'm still learning and don't be afraid to ask questions on here...not saying you are afraid, but maybe there is a question you have and maybe someone asked the same or similar a few years ago...ask ALL the questions you want. There IS a wealth of knowledge on here! :thumbup:
Lugnut
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thanks lugnut :thumbup:
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got solenoid today , all hooked up and things are working great i wouldagain like to say THANKS paul :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Glad to hear it buddy!