Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: woodman on December 06, 2011, 06:44:19 AM
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Hi guys!
As the title says, what is the design difference between the standard 5000 model vs the 5000e. All I can find so far is they are claiming a 25% wood usage reduction.
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Welcome to the site woodman, I was wondering the same thing but just have not taken the time to look in to it. I am sure you (we) will get an answeer soon
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The differences are that the series bring air both over and under the fire. The air over the fire to those who haven't ran one would seem like no big deal. However the 5000e I'm running now never smokes, the only time you see any wisps of smoke is right after the fan shuts off and the fire fights for o2. If you open the firebox door when the fan is on what you see is an inferno, you don't see flames wiz ing around like a standard model but the added u2 coming in the top gives normally wasted gases s chance to ignite and they burn like crazy. I'll have to learn how to post videos.
Also instead of the chimney only having one pass on standard models, the e series has a triple pass chimney system. So if you compare to most stoves who have 12-15" of stove pipe touching the water jacket absorbing heat, the eseries probably has 120". Keeping the heat in contact with the water longer lowers exhaust temps dramatically thus raising efficiency.
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:post:
Welcome to the site Woodman!
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Actually the 5000e has a double bypass and the 3000e has a triple bypass.
The over under air that Scott takes about does burn clean. However Heat Master is going to have to come up with another way of doing this because the current way doesn't work long term. We are working on a solution but for now I would recommend either running the dampers completely open on the bottom and closed on the top or replacing the air tube on the back.
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Thanks for the welcome and the replys. Here is a little background info. I live in SW lower Michigan, and have been heating my 3000 sq ft house and dhw, with a Hawken boiler for 5 seasons now. Overall I am happy with my boiler, but I use a fair amount of wood in a season (between 10-12 full cord from Oct-May). Part of it is because we keep the house at 73-74 most of the time but hey, thats what I bought it for. I think the design of my boiler is similar to a "standard" heatmaster and I was just wondering if there was a simple mod to make to mine to make it perform like the "e" model. If the increase in effeciency comes from a double pass chimney I guess I am out of luck. The design of mine forces the gasses over water filled tubes which go across the top 1/3 of the fire box, then up again and back through a channel above the tubes along the very top of the fire box. At the time I was looking at boilers this seemed like one of the better designs for increasing heat transfer, as the tubes effectivly increase the surface area of the water jacket/firebox. When the boiler is cycling there is no visible smoke from the stack, only heat waves. Sure would be nice to be able to capture more of the heat escaping from the stack.
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Actually the 5000e has a double bypass and the 3000e has a triple bypass.
The over under air that Scott takes about does burn clean. However Heat Master is going to have to come up with another way of doing this because the current way doesn't work long term. We are working on a solution but for now I would recommend either running the dampers completely open on the bottom and closed on the top or replacing the air tube on the back.
Just curious as to what exactly is the problem with it? I'm very interested in this
design.
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It's not a huge problem.. But the pipe that goes between the bottom air port and the top air port can get creosote inside of it if the stove is idling a lot like in the spring or early fall. It's something much more prevalent in warmer climates.
So, if your running in warm weather it's probably a safe bet to every few months inspect the pipe between the 2 ports. Clean it out and put it back on, it's just a piece of snap duct. It goes on with furnace style duct tape so the whole process takes 5 minutes.
They can clog is how the problem was discovered.
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Thanks Scott. Is there anyway you could take a picture of it when you get the chance and post it here.
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I've never posted pics on here but I wiliest when I clean my tube, probably some time next week.