Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: Chugger4030 on January 24, 2012, 03:37:02 PM
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I recently did a flow rate head calculation using tacos td10 "selecting circulators" document. I have roughly 27ft of head and need a flow rate of 6gpm for my system. I currently have a 009 pump and a spare cartridge. It looks like i am getting 3gpm with the 009 from the pump curve and i would get 5 gpm from the 0011. Would the 0011 be worth the upgrade? I am getting roughly 20 to 25 degrees of drop on my return line to the owb.
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If you have 27ft of head a 0011 won't help. It looks that is exactly where the curve crosses for the 009 and 0011
I would use a B&G pl36 (can do 37' max ) or an Armstrong E9 (42' max)
These pumps will use a lot less power than the 0011 too.
(http://www.pexuniverse.com/sites/default/files/taco-pump-curves.jpg)
(http://www.northlanddistrib.com/assets/images/BellGossett/PLSeriesCurves.jpg)
(http://www.plumbersurplus.com/images/prod/6/Armstrong-E11-rw-52870-14805.JPG)
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I was thinking of a 0013 and the pl36 must be comparable. I have a taco 1" 3 way zone valve that makes a rather loud ringing sound when it is in bypass mode. When the 009 is making the loop back to the owb and not sending the heat to the baseboards. Could this be caused by the pump having too much flow? Would the pl36 make this even worse? It does not make this sound when the valve is open and making the full loop to the baseboards.
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What model is the zone valve. It looks like a 562-5 needs to be between 6 and 10 GPM.
Specifications:
Connections: 1" Sweat (CxCxC)
Max pressure rating: 125 psi
Max operating temperature: 240F
Min operating temperature: 40F
Flow range (GPM): 6 - 10
Cv: 7.0
Voltage: 24V
Amps: 0.9
How much pipe, heat exchangers, etc do you have? I think you might be better off trying to get your head pressure loss down. I believe a 3 way zone valve is equivalent to 60' of 1" pipe. Using a pump instead of the valve should get rid of that restriction.
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Yep its a 562 5 . I have a 5x12x6 plate heat exchanger for my dhw. I have 120,' of 3/4" copper for baseboards and 20 elbows 3/4" tied into the baseboard connections. And i have 220 feet of 1" pex plumbed between the stove and baseboards. Putting me at 27' of head pressure.
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Is the plate heat exchanger 6 plate or 6" thick?
Is everything in series? If so, I would put the baseboards on a secondary loop and get rid of the zone valve. If you put two tees close together in the same pipe, no water will flow through your secondary loop when the pump (in secondary loop) is not running. It will lower your head pressure loss way down too
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The heat exchanger is 6 plates. From the owb the flow travels to the heat exchanger for the hot water tank. Then to the zone valve. I put a 007 pump out at the stove in place of the 009 and it burnt up in 2 days.
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So essentially if i added another pump i would need to size it for the head of the baseboard runs. I would need a zoning pump of some kind like the 007 zoning priority pump. And use my 009 at the boiler to circulate from the stove to the dhw exchanger and back out. Or just install a smaller pump for that loop as well.
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Pretty much. You should be able to just get a cheap fan relay and use it to control a regular 007 (or whatever size) pump.
You can probably leave the 009 where it is.