Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: tbone on February 02, 2012, 07:03:32 AM
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What temp differential do you use? Mine has always been 20 degrees and I have never changed it...just lowered or raised my on and off depending on the weather. Just curious...always looking to burn less wood.
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Long burns are the cleanest and most efficient. I run 15 degrees with wood and 8-10 with coal.
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Hello.
Here is a graph http://burnrite.net/PDF/012812-2.pdf (http://burnrite.net/PDF/012812-2.pdf) of what a 5 degree differential does on a day with moderate ambient temperatures ~ 35F. Adding additional “soak” time only makes the problem worse. Recovering from the 5 degree differential or 15 degrees! only creates an unnecessary hot fire wasting fuel. There will not me much creosote or wood remaining.
As you can see, the marked areas are the startup point where huge amounts of belching smoke being emitted. No wonder why the EPA wants regulations. Those in close proximity to other residents complain and these stoves are being outlawed with residential zoning laws.
Shawn
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Hi,
Here is a graph of the i723 FIRESTORM, PID controller http://burnrite.net/PDF/012812-3.pdf (http://burnrite.net/PDF/012812-3.pdf) . This is the low temperature test. Results are great.
Thanks,
Shawn
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Hello.
Here is a graph http://burnrite.net/PDF/012812-2.pdf (http://burnrite.net/PDF/012812-2.pdf) of what a 5 degree differential does on a day with moderate ambient temperatures ~ 35F. Adding additional “soak” time only makes the problem worse. Recovering from the 5 degree differential or 15 degrees! only creates an unnecessary hot fire wasting fuel. There will not me much creosote or wood remaining.
As you can see, the marked areas are the startup point where huge amounts of belching smoke being emitted. No wonder why the EPA wants regulations. Those in close proximity to other residents complain and these stoves are being outlawed with residential zoning laws.Shawn
I think the graph would have been more effective if it had been correlated to actual stack emission data, and also compared to short burn cycles vs longer burn cycles. As it stands I don't find the graph to be very effective.
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Do not beleive it, I've been around this stuff long enough to know better and everyone here that is experienced has said the same thing. But I'd your looking to make a creosote bomb, go for it
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The burn cycle, long or short from the factory ON-OFF control with differential, whichever it may be, still leads to erratic control and belching smoke and wasted fuel in the recovery during the beginning of every recovery cycle. Even with this first series of tests, the neighbors will be very happy.
Thank you for the comments.
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15 for me seems to work just fine not a lot of smoke and no build up. So put that in your graph and smoke it. ;D
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Shawn,
Do you have any videos that you can post? I need to see one in action.
By the way, my guinea pig offer still stands, and I will give honest reports to all on this site. I still believe your product could possibly work well on gassers if tweaked properly.
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Ele, come to my house... Run my stove and see if you can make it smoke, u may on the intial loading but there is noooo "belching" of smoke and rarely is any smoke visible..
You can visibly watch the fire and the hotter it is the cleaner it burns which means not as much fuel is being wasted..
How about some real evidence? I don't care what a chart or graph says, you can twist stuff like that. To show anything
Take marty's offer, he is your only chnce for bringing legitimacy to this product
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Scott, I am confused which is better long burns or short ? My cb only allows a 10 degree differance.
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You have the love control or one like it that's already set at 10 degrees.....
I have found it beneficial in my experimenting that longer burns result in more efficient burns, less smoke, and less creosote. No reason to tell you that you need something u don't, just free advice. Keep in mind if you use a control other than what your stove comes with you void your warranty
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Long burns are the cleanest and most efficient. I run 15 degrees with wood and 8-10 with coal.
thanks scott, going to try 15 and see how that works....you think 20 is a little high?
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Wishing for "more power to ya!!", but your test was conducted over 1 hr and 9 minutes according to time line on your graph.
How about conducting a test for 9 days and 1 hr maybe. Just curious as to why only 105 deg? Does that not keep oxygen in the furnace water?
I hope your on to something, but cresote is nothing but trouble and it just seems that without a good hot burn cycle, it is going to accumulate. I think a smoldering fire will produce creosote, wether you steadily maintain 105 deg water or 185 deg water. The wide open burn has to work/aid in burning off accumulated creosote deposits.
Then again, suppose you were just running testing to see if furnace temp, could be maintained steady. Appears to successful, but is it conducive to clean operation of the OWB?
Keep at it, as if someone like you wasn't willing to step out on a limb, we would be less educated on what works and what don't. But, constant questioning from the likes of us on the forum shouldn't get to you. We ask questions, we will forever have "doubts", only because we/I do find it all interesting.
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That's another part of the equation that's missing, good point bill G, at such low temps the o2 level in the water would be crazy high....
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I keep a 30* spread with mine. On at 135 off at 165 all season long.
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Thanks for all the comments from everyone. I agree with you Bill G. in regards to the constant questioning and various opinions. It helps to educate everyone.
The “low temperature” test was / is just that. Out of the box, plug in and run. From that initial test, couldn’t be any more satisfied with the results. We will be progressively elevating the set point and closely monitoring performance in upcoming days.
Shawn
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just checked my aquastat...20 the lowest # I can adjust 2.
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I keep a 30* spread with mine. On at 135 off at 165 all season long.
About how many chord do you burn a year?
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Without knowing wood mans home construction it's not going to tell much about his program.
ELE, set your stove for 165 and hold it there for a week..
Serious question ele, how are folks going to run a controller that will obviously void warranty if it did work
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I keep a 30* spread with mine. On at 135 off at 165 all season long.
About how many chord do you burn a year?
My house is about 3000 sq' living space we keep it at 73, full basement/crawl with 5 foot walls stays around 65. Dhw for 5. A 600 sq' garage kept at 55 unless I turn it up (not often) My house is a mix of new construction and remodel with spray foam in the walls. The attic is rated at r60 I think. There are 30 3'x5' pella windows throughout the house. Last year from October-May I burnt 12 full cord this year it looks like it will be close to 8.
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30 pella windows,, wow, they are the equivalent to like r2 or 3. With thirty of them that's some major heat loss, I'd say you are doing very well on your wood consumption
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30 pella windows,, wow, they are the equivalent to like r2 or 3. With thirty of them that's some major heat loss, I'd say you are doing very well on your wood consumption
I thought they were pretty good windows. But yes this house would be thirsty to heat with oil or propane.
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I've been doin a lot of research on windows lately, preparing to build.....
Pella are the best you can get at like lowes.... Which is far better than most ppl have
There are window companies like Cornett building supply in southern Ohio that have triple pane windows that are up to r7. Ive read places had them r10, but later found it to be false
A triple pane with with argon is like r 5, that's the gas pella uses, the same window with krypton is r7
Cornett offers custom windows at near the same price with a full lifetime warranty, the best part is there built in house in new Boston, Ohio
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Yep your right about the triple pane just make sure your sitting down when you get the bill. I couldn't swing the difference in price between a double and a triple for as many windows as we have. We ended up buying some high end "insulated" blinds (I can't remeber the brand name). They look very nice closed but are open most of the time, but when the wind is howling they make a huge difference.
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The custom place I've been shopping really isn't that much higher on triples, it's around 40 per window I think
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Thats pretty awsome! When I looked into triple pane, they were nearly twice the cost I paid for my pellas. I guess I should have kept looking.
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I've been doin a lot of research on windows lately, preparing to build.....
Pella are the best you can get at like lowes.... Which is far better than most ppl have
There are window companies like Cornett building supply in southern Ohio that have triple pane windows that are up to r7. Ive read places had them r10, but later found it to be false
A triple pane with with argon is like r 5, that's the gas pella uses, the same window with krypton is r7
Best to orient the house to the south if possible to benefit from passive solar heat and avoid west facing windows (again; if possible) where there is little heat gain in the winter but a lot of heat gain in the summer. Here is a website to help plan an overhang on a south facing wall to allow winter sun in and keep summer sun out.
http://www.susdesign.com/ (http://www.susdesign.com/)
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Therebis a heat test with the windows using a propeller and heat lamps you should see. With triple kryptons u can't feel any heat at all coming through
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I've been doin a lot of research on windows lately, preparing to build.....
Pella are the best you can get at like lowes.... Which is far better than most ppl have
There are window companies like Cornett building supply in southern Ohio that have triple pane windows that are up to r7. Ive read places had them r10, but later found it to be false
A triple pane with with argon is like r 5, that's the gas pella uses, the same window with krypton is r7
Cornett offers custom windows at near the same price with a full lifetime warranty, the best part is there built in house in new Boston, Ohio
I will keep this in mind for my next build, Thanks