Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Central Boiler => Topic started by: kj5036 on August 03, 2012, 02:15:12 PM
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Thought id post pics as I go...
My trench after I filled with sand
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=254)
Gotta show the wood pile
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=253)
Going through foundation. Removing the feildstone was a PIA!
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=255)
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sealin up the hole
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=256)
Comin through crawl space to basement
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=252)
Board mounted to stabilize the therrmopex. Thats stuff is a b**** to work with
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=257)
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Lookin good! Can I borrow a couple cords of wood?
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Lol only about half the pile is good hardwood. Not sure how much ill need, hopefully that will get me through. I started cutting in early spring so it could dry out.
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(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=260)
Received my pump today. Looks funny to have B&G pump with Taco iso flanges lol
I was suppose to get all my other parts but only received the water to air hx and it was the WRONG size WTF! >:(
This pump is really heavy. Gonna have to figure a way to support it. Mounting it horizontal in basement.
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Looking good
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Pic of my gas guzzler. Waiting on my heat exchanger to arrive to throw it in. Its only about 7' from where my thermopex leaves off.
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=259)
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Now that's what you call a "Michigan Basement"! Looks very similar to mine. Can you walk under your floor joists without ducking? :bash:
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Ya, you gotta love it. Im 6'1" and can just fit under them. Still have to duck in some places. Its nice that everything is easily accessable but thats about it.
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Lookin good! Keep the pics comin! But I noticed one thing in the picture of the pump... you need a pedicure! lol
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lol :thumbup:
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My pad so far. 5x10
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=261)
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Ya, you gotta love it. Im 6'1" and can just fit under them. Still have to duck in some places. Its nice that everything is easily accessable but thats about it.
Don't think of it as a short basement. Think of it as a nice deep crawl space.
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Ya thats a good way of lookin at it.
Quick question...on the side of boiler at the hook-up...how does it come? Is it just a plug or is there an elbow, is it male or female or what??
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(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=262)
I got some parts in. Now time for it all to come together
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Are those SharkBite fittings? Make sure your PEX is secure and won't move or vibrate. I had a couple valves that would leak if things cooled down and the PEX shrunk. Pulled them apart and the the pipes had groves worn in them. Replaced with pinch bands and no more problems. Good luck! :thumbup:
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My 5036 came with a taco 009 outside. Just stripped back the insulation and connected the pex to the male ends with clamps.
That is interesting. I wonder if that just something your dealer does as a package. I bought my 5036 in early 2011 and it did not have a pump. Really it shouldn't come with one in my opinion. If you need a larger pump for your application it would be wasted.
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Ya thats a good way of lookin at it.
Quick question...on the side of boiler at the hook-up...how does it come? Is it just a plug or is there an elbow, is it male or female or what??
Mine has a tee for the inlet and outlet. I'm not sure I have ever figured out why it is not just an elbow but you will be hooking onto a female thread unless they changed.
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artbaldoni, thanks for the heads up. Ill be keepin a close eye on it.
HandyMark, ya that is weird they dont have an elbow. Thanks for the info. Just tryin to get everything prepared
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Got the air to water exchanger put in today
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=263)
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(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=264)
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artbaldoni, thanks for the heads up. Ill be keepin a close eye on it.
HandyMark, ya that is weird they dont have an elbow. Thanks for the info. Just tryin to get everything prepared
I was just looking at my boiler and realized I gave you bad info. The bottom side of those tees are 3/4 MALE thread. When I first looked I thought I had a nipple in there.
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Oh ok...thanks. Are the ports for the "out" and "in" 3/4"? If so that doesnt make much sense since everything else is 1"
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I have a 5036 and nothing on mine is 1". It is all 3/4"
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Both of my old Central Boiler Classic and my new Eclassic had/have 3/4 inch ports. I think most 1 inch PEX is 3/4 inch or so inside diameter anyway. 1 inch outside diameter.
I've never had a problem moving enough water through it over the years. House always warm.
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My thought on those furnace Tee's, I got temperature gauges from my dealer that can screw into the end of those Tee's, so I can monitor the water temp leaving and returning to my furnace after some heat has been pulled off in my house. It cost me a few extra bucks, but I like them so I can monitor Delta T / temp drop.
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Both of my old Central Boiler Classic and my new Eclassic had/have 3/4 inch ports. I think most 1 inch PEX is 3/4 inch or so inside diameter anyway. 1 inch outside diameter.
I've never had a problem moving enough water through it over the years. House always warm.
1" pex isn't 3/4" inside or 1" outside. Pex is copper tubing size OD which is 1-1/8" OD.
The sidewall thickness on pex is 1/9th the diameter and on 1" pex is about 7/8 ID"
You can get 1" pex barb fittings with 3/4" threads and they are straight through because fittings are smaller diameter.
That is probably why CB uses 3/4" fittings.
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(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=265)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=266)
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My thought on those furnace Tee's, I got temperature gauges from my dealer that can screw into the end of those Tee's, so I can monitor the water temp leaving and returning to my furnace after some heat has been pulled off in my house. It cost me a few extra bucks, but I like them so I can monitor Delta T / temp drop.
That is a good idea. I honestly hadn't paid any attention to those fittings until it came up here. At first glance they don't seem very useful since there isn't a lot of room between the fitting and the door.
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Love that idea, I will for surely do the same thing....easy way to keep track of the temp and heat loss! :thumbup:
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I looked at Menards(check local listings)today. They have a gauge that is combination pressure and temp for $19.50. Anyone know how that compares with a plain thermometer? They had one with a rear outlet which would screw right into that tee and face out for easy viewing. I almost bought a pair but obviously don't need a pressure gauge so I decided to compare.
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I have had one of those in the basement for about 8 years. It reads about 15 degrees low because the probe part is so short and doesn't reach into the water flow path.
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I bought mine from my CB dealer. It's in their parts catalog. Gauge on the supply reads within 1 degree of the furnace controller readout.
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(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=267)
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Pad finaly done!
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=268)
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(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=269)
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Hey what gaskets did u use to put taco flanges to bell and gossett pump the taco ones or the bell gossett ones? I have the same thing b&s pump and taco flanges
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Flanges are universal fit and will work with any brand. You need to get the right gaskets for the pump because the grove is in the pump flange is different between brands or use the flat universal type gaskets.
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Ya, the gaskets come with the pump and they all work together.
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Bored waiting around for my boiler so thought I would fill my lines and flush them out real good with my heat exchangers bypassed.
Filled from outside with hose
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=284)
Ran water through till it shot out other side then kept it goin for couple min. then drained it out down in basement. Was only bout half a bucket
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=283)
Took out my strainer and although you cant tell in the pic, it did have alot of stuff in it. I stuck my finger in the wye part and pulled some out as well
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=282)
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Still waiting for boiler. Hopefully after this holiday weekend itll be in.
I called the county on this beast. Its in the right-away. Hope they drop it soon
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=285)
...then I got this one to drop also
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=286)
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DELIVERY THURSDAY!!! :thumbup:
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I did the elecrical hookup for my pump today. Had to add a plug to pump wires, install an outlet, and added a switch.
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=291)
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Nice pictures, and great progress. :thumbup:
Not to be super picky, but shouldn't those pumps be supported a bit more? They look kind of precarious, with the white srap and what not.
Also since PEX pipe is technically not rigid pipe, might need a few more supports?
Not sure if you are done with the install yet, but a little bit of insualtion on those lines goes along way towards keeping the heat in the pipes. Only reason I say that is the first season I ran with out insulation in the mechanical room and wowsers it got HOT, second season insulated and probably droped the temp in that littel room a good 10-20 degrees air temp.
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Thanks ThatGuy, im really not sure how the pump will be honestly. I have pipe hangers on both sides of it and the strap is to hold the motor end up. It seems ok but will have to see when I actually have it running. I thought about a big u-bolt hanger type thing. As far as more support for the pex...not sure about that either. I just tried to support it where there were alot of weight was on it. Ill have to see when it gets hot. I agree 100% on the insulation part. After my stove arrives and everything is filled and tested then Im gonna insulate all the lines. Thanks for the comment, im sure ill have to make changes as I go
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Food for thought, might want to fab some kind of metal bracket that use the bolts from the pump flange as a rigid mount. With also help with some of the PEX movement when you crank that 180f water thru the pipes. Good luck, and can't wait from more pics
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Ahhhh cool...thats a good idea. Thanks
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Might want to put that switch in a electrical box, also when the pex gets hot it will sag more.
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Ya, im interested to see how the pex is gonna be when up to temp. Once I add insulation and everything is up and running, ill add hangers where needed.
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These are two of my best investments as far as firewod is concerned. They make life sooo much easier!
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=294)
...and the Ranger is awesome for gathering wood, pullin logs out, haulin your equipment, and its FUN!
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=293)
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Busy busy!!
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=299)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=300)
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I got the electrical hooked up, chimney on, and lines connected so far
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=301)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=302)
READY TO FILL!
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Just in time. I am thinking of firing mine up today. Nights are going to be cold this week and I am anxious to start heating water.
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Nice pics!! :thumbup:
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Thanks MattyNH
HandyMark, did you just put yours in?
I need to do a couple little things and then fill er up. That damn work thing has been getin in the way lately lol Will def have a fire in it within the next couple days
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Lookin good! I've been thinking about firing mine up too but I think I'll try and hold off until at leave mid October if I can.
Your logsplitter looks brand new but could you give me your opinion on it? I was looking at that same one at TSC but I just can't make up my mind if I should buy the 35 Ton or not.
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The log splitter I bought off my parents. My stepdads health isnt quite so good these days so they didnt use it much. He said he loved it and never had a problem with it. Ive used it alot already and it always fires right up and seems to split through anything I throw at it.
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I'm sorry to hear about your stepdad. I just recently went through that as well.
Thanks for the info on the splitter. This will be my second season with my OWB and I'm already getting tired of splitting wood.
I bet you can't wait to get yours going! Looks like a very nice setup.
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I love all the pics, they are great
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I installed mine in about Feb 2010 during construction of my new house. We only used it for enough heat to keep the drywall from freezing the first winter. Last winter wasn't even a challenge so I hooked up the DHW this year to pull some more btus. I fired mine up two nights ago just in case we woke up to a cold house because I have no back up heat source and my wife doesn't do well with a cold house. I have a massive amount of wood here that will not last more than a couple of years so I might as well keep it burning.
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Cool
Ive got er filled up, chemicals in, pump on, and think i got all the air purged. Im just gonna let it run till I put a fire in it. Probably pretty soon. Just insulating now. I have noticed the boiler reads 56 and my inside supply and return are both reading about 52...brrrr
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(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=303)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=304)
Almost got the inside done. I have to pick up some more pipe insulation
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Looks great KJ.
I also have a 5036 that we installed last year and have been very pleased. Just a thought though, you might want to reconsider the insulation inside the door. I to wanted to do that but my dealer said that the electronics should "breathe a little".
I'm sure you will get other opinions. Just my .02
Enjoy the furnace and the savings!!
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Thanks plumb bob! Im sure your dealer is speaking from experiance but it says right in the manual to put insulation in there. Thanks for letting me know...im gonna try it out and see how it goes. I dont know why CB didnt spray foam the door.
So how are you liking the 5036, what are you heating, are you using much wood?
Im gettin excited to fire it up...I just remembered last night I still need to get a thermostat and hook it up lol
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KJ,
We are heating 1600 sq. ft. house (baseboard) and garage with room above 1200 sq ft (radiant).
All worked well although last year probably wasn't a good indicator i.e. temps. I think we prolly burned 8 cords but that was mostly pine that was removed for an addition.
I still think stopping the insulation at the electronics and just encapsulating the lines and pumps would be a good idea. See what happens. Good luck!
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FIRE IN THE HOLE!
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=305)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=306)
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Nice!!!!!!
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I know, I debated whether or not I should get a darker color or not cause I knew it would end up discolored over time. Thermostat is hooked up and everything is goin great. Is it normal to open the door and poke at it every 15 minutes lol I havent even burned any of my wood yet. Just been goin back and gathering up old, dry, dead stuff. House is 74 and water is HOT and not using a drop of propane(except for the damn dryer and stove...dohhhh!)
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I have been able to keep the front of my OWF's looking great for years by cleaning front up every spring with a product called Fire Ball Citrus Spray Cleaner.
Works great getting tar off my truck and car too!
Best thing I've found to keep my furnace looking like new...I found it online at: http://shop.northwoodstm.com/products/Fire-Ball-Citrus-Spray-Cleaner.html (http://shop.northwoodstm.com/products/Fire-Ball-Citrus-Spray-Cleaner.html)
The company is in Wisconsin.
Congrats on on the install!
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cooch, I've never had or had a need to create a chimney fire. Just keep your wood and coal bed infront of the big baffle in back and close to the front door. I found I got the best efficiency that way and next to zero creosote build up in the chimney on my Classic.
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I have been burning my 5036 for a season and a half and never had a flake of creosote buildup in my stack. I guess that back baffle keeps it all stuck to the walls of my firebox.
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The wood rack I just built.
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=307)
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Anyone else running with bypass on there plate exchanger open? Ive been crackin mine open a little more everyday and then today I opened it all the way and took a shower. I didnt notice any differance. Water still steamin hot(havent got the mixing valve hooked up yet). This is gotta be good. Instead of all my water goin through, now only part of it does which means my return water should be hotter. I figure the waters gonna flow through the path of least resistance and the exchanger has got to offer alot more than the bypass. Next time I might try crackin the inlet to exchanger a bit.
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Thanks, I'll have to try that stuff. Is it normal to start chimney fires to see how big a flame you can get out of the stack?
Yes, it is completely normal if you are a pyromaniac such as myself :) I like flames to shoot out the door also
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Its been a couple weeks now and even though it hasnt been cold yet Im loving my 5036! Im really happy with everything except one thing which was driving me nuts. I noticed a piece of wood or two(even tho i would pull everything to the front) would somehow find its way back by the last baffle and would burn straight up out the exhaust. Also when loading sometimes i was afraid a longer piece might be sticking back there and if it was even close i noticed flames blowing under it. I know...who cares...but I DO. So I wanted to put in a half wall before the last baffle. That way it would ensure nothin gets behind it and would also direct flames straight up where its needed. I made a setup to try out and if it works out ok ill add something better next summer. So far I love it. I had the material layin around and only took bout an hour...
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=319)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=320)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=321)
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How have you liked the half wall you put in the boiler? I am thinking about trying it on my 6048. The same thing happens to me when my Dad loads the boiler. I also think that it would probably increase the heat transfer.
Thanks
Todd
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I love it. I dont know why it doesnt come that way. I think it helps ALOT with better heat transfer, hotter firebox(which makes recovery faster), and keeps things contained. I was just gonna try it out and then remove it but i liked it so much that I kept it in. Im convinced it reduces wood consumption cause ive talked to alot of people with boilers that use WAY more wood with similar set-ups. After this winter im gonna make a heavy duty one thats braced but that I can still remove(for cleaning in summer). It has 2 drawbacks...1) you get more smoke out the door(which i dont care) 2) It makes the firebox a little shorter(but you dont want wood past the baffle anyway).
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Great looking setup!!! :thumbup: I checked out your thread from start to finish today. I only have a couple questions. I'm curious why you didn't just put the pump right at the back of the boiler?? No worries about trying to support it hanging that way. Also, and I guess your setup isn't that uncommon from what someone on here said to me the other day, is I'm curious about your supply to your furnace HX?? I see that you have the water flowing through the HX all the time?? I assume the pump runs 24/7 since you have it piped through a plate exchanger. I guess my point is, are you having excessive heat in your home from the natural convection of heat through your HX and duct work?? My dealer strongly suggested I use a 3-way zone valve so the water bypassed the HX until there is call for heat. I didn't question it and assumed everyone would use the same setup. I ran mine for one night with the zone valve manually opened before I finished my furnace wiring and my house heated up over 80 degrees. Too warm for me. Just curious. Great job with everything!!
Jeff
Oh, props to you for taking the initiative to "modify" a new stove. Your baffle idea is a good one. I have 2 gassers so it's not an idea I can utilize, totally different setup. I've had to take things into my own hands with my CB E-2300 though also. Totally re-did the primary air supply since the original 1. plugged up with no way to clean it out 2. was falling apart.
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Great looking setup!!! :thumbup: I checked out your thread from start to finish today. I only have a couple questions. I'm curious why you didn't just put the pump right at the back of the boiler?? No worries about trying to support it hanging that way. Also, and I guess your setup isn't that uncommon from what someone on here said to me the other day, is I'm curious about your supply to your furnace HX?? I see that you have the water flowing through the HX all the time?? I assume the pump runs 24/7 since you have it piped through a plate exchanger. I guess my point is, are you having excessive heat in your home from the natural convection of heat through your HX and duct work?? My dealer strongly suggested I use a 3-way zone valve so the water bypassed the HX until there is call for heat. I didn't question it and assumed everyone would use the same setup. I ran mine for one night with the zone valve manually opened before I finished my furnace wiring and my house heated up over 80 degrees. Too warm for me. Just curious. Great job with everything!!
Jeff
Oh, props to you for taking the initiative to "modify" a new stove. Your baffle idea is a good one. I have 2 gassers so it's not an idea I can utilize, totally different setup. I've had to take things into my own hands with my CB E-2300 though also. Totally re-did the primary air supply since the original 1. plugged up with no way to clean it out 2. was falling apart.
Very nice. I would be scared on using regular pipe clamps though. If I were you I would make sure to tighten all those clamps now that everything is heated up I just don't trust those clamps they strip out to easy just my .02. Jack
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Those clamps have been the greatest things in the world actually. Not like the cheap junk you get locally. Those came from CB and I have never stripped one or had a leak in 5 years. I have used some regular clamps on my 1 1/4" lines but I double clamped those and have not had any trouble. And most of my connections in my greenhouses now are all crimped. I only used the clamps for my initial home setup. They were about $1 ea. Expensive yes, and I would not want to have to use a lot of them, but they are worth the money.
Jeff
Oops!! I see I need to eat my words. You are correct Jack. I went back and looked at it. I had to stop and think as to why some of the clamps were changed out (originally they were all CB clamps). Last year I needed to add in a couple of "T"s out in my greenhouse where the lines are not too conspicuous. I needed 6 clamps and I wanted to make sure there were no leaks out there. So the cheap clamps are located where I can readily see them and would notice leakage. So far so good. Now that I have my own PEX crimping tool I'll probably change them out before next season. Oh by the way Lowe's has a great crimping kit, does 4 sizes PEX for about $100. Another $20 for the cutting tool. Great buy I think!! Works every bit as good as the expensive one that my True Value guy let me borrow a few times. Looks almost identical.
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Maybe Central Boiler should use your pictures as promotional material. They are good!
The baffle you put in makes a longer path for the smoke (exhaust). I'll bet the smoke stays in the boiler just a little longer. This gives it more time to transfer the heat to your boiler. I also wonder if you have better combustion since the smoke has to go to the top part of the boiler where it's the hottest. The unburned gases in the smoke may then have a chance to burn giving you more heat and a cleaner burn. My wood stove has a sliding baffle and I really see a difference when it's pulled out.
I hope you give an update and pictures on how it works on a really cold day. I wonder if heat loss from the Pex will melt the snow above.
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dwneast77, my pump is supported good...no worries. I wanted the pump in the house for a couple reasons.
1) so I can monitor real easy by just walking down stairs 2) if I have to change it out(because if it fails itll be in the mid of winter) it will be easy and more conveniant 3) pumps put out ALOT of heat through the casing and also the motor gives off alot of heat and id rather have that escape to the house 4) it made it easier to insulate inside the door of the stove.
My pump is only about 50' from stove and is a couple feet lower in elevation so im not worried about cavitation. Everything is working great.
I have bypasses also on my furnace HX and my hot water HX also. If I was gonna run through the summer I would def bypass the furnace cause there is alot of heat radiating up through the plenum but when its chilly outside I love it. I like the constant heat it provides(keeps my blower from kickin on as much). I like the zone valve and only opening up when its needed but I would like to have one on my hot water HX(20 plate) instead.
I shouldnt see any snow melt where my pex is. Im using Thermopex and is a short run. I currently dont see any loss when its in the 20s. My complete loop is 120' and ALL well insulated. Fingers crossed
Oh i forgot to mention burn times...the other day I filled at 4am in morning and didnt get back to it till 9pm that night. Of course it was completely out of wood but water temp was only down to 160. set point is 170-185. Thought that was pretty good since it was chilly that day in the 30s with high winds. Thats also burning box elder lol I contibute part of it to maintaining a high ash bed. Ash puts out alot of heat!
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I love it. I dont know why it doesnt come that way. I think it helps ALOT with better heat transfer, hotter firebox(which makes recovery faster), and keeps things contained. I was just gonna try it out and then remove it but i liked it so much that I kept it in. Im convinced it reduces wood consumption cause ive talked to alot of people with boilers that use WAY more wood with similar set-ups. After this winter im gonna make a heavy duty one thats braced but that I can still remove(for cleaning in summer). It has 2 drawbacks...1) you get more smoke out the door(which i dont care) 2) It makes the firebox a little shorter(but you dont want wood past the baffle anyway).
I like it. could you post the sizes and stuff needed. Ideas like this are so cool. I have the restrictor in place and that helps roduce wood useage as well
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I cant remember the exact sizes but be just be sure not restrict it too much. You want to re-direct it more than anything.
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KJ,
We are heating 1600 sq. ft. house (baseboard) and garage with room above 1200 sq ft (radiant).
All worked well although last year probably wasn't a good indicator i.e. temps. I think we prolly burned 8 cords but that was mostly pine that was removed for an addition.
I still think stopping the insulation at the electronics and just encapsulating the lines and pumps would be a good idea. See what happens. Good luck!
Thats how I did mine
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Its been a couple weeks now and even though it hasnt been cold yet Im loving my 5036! Im really happy with everything except one thing which was driving me nuts. I noticed a piece of wood or two(even tho i would pull everything to the front) would somehow find its way back by the last baffle and would burn straight up out the exhaust. Also when loading sometimes i was afraid a longer piece might be sticking back there and if it was even close i noticed flames blowing under it. I know...who cares...but I DO. So I wanted to put in a half wall before the last baffle. That way it would ensure nothin gets behind it and would also direct flames straight up where its needed. I made a setup to try out and if it works out ok ill add something better next summer. So far I love it. I had the material layin around and only took bout an hour...
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=319)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=320)
(http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=321)
I guess I have a hard time, seeing how you put the baffle in, does the smoke have to go under the homemade baffle, or is it just laid in there to keep the wood from, being thrown all the way back to the rear? thanks
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I might have commented before not sure, I saw your wood piles for the boiler i had to move mine away from the house a pretty good way's. I had more copper head snakes that year in the back yard than i have even seen these where juvenile snakes mother must have been close. I moved the wood pile last year early and did not see the first snake. Enjoy the wood boiler because I sure have enjoyed our's. :thumbup: