Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Portage & Main => Topic started by: jreimer on November 13, 2012, 03:02:00 PM
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I've purchased an Optimizer 250 this year as my old OWB finally rusted through beyond repair. I'm running fairly dry wood through it, but after a month of use there is quite a bit of extremely hard creosote lumps building up and lining my scotch marine tubes. Both the vertical and horizontal. It seems to be burning cleanly, so I'm not sure what could be causing this to happen. I also can't clean it off because they are too hard for the wire brushes to remove.
Anyone else experience this? Should I be concerned about this buildup? How do others remove this buildup?
I'll see if I can get some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks!
James.
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I have not noticed anyone with a 250 talking about this issue yet. In my CB2300 I've seen this happen some. Tends to be more this time of year with a lot of idle time while the outside temps are still rather mild. Once I open my greenhouses in March, my boilers are running almost constant all night long so it begins to loosen up and fall out. I would think, based on what I've seen, that idle time in conjunction with moisture content in the wood would be ideal conditions to cause this.
The biggest thing I've seen guys out here talking about regarding the P&M 250 is the primary air channel. Make sure the holes at the top of the firebox are clear and also open the air box at the back of the furnace and make sure creosote isn't building up in there and around your blower fan.
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I do not own a unit yet (building one) but I would assume that all the constitutes of the build-up should have burned in the secondary combustion section of the boiler? Any chance there is an air leak letting in air for smolder type of fire?
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Go to www.tcwilson.com (http://www.tcwilson.com) and look for the expanding wire brush. These things will clean anything from the tubes leaving them like new. get the 1 5/8" brush. They are a little pricey $120.00 but make cleaning a snap. You will have to get a rod and attach it too a drill.
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Thanks coolidge. I think I'll have to get a brush to clean up this creosote.
I think I have a little air getting into the main combustion chamber through the bottom seal of the door. When the fan kicks in it smokes out of the bottom of the front door.
I've tightened up the door as much as possible but it's still leaking. What's the best way to get this sealed up?
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High temp silicone
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I've purchased an Optimizer 250 this year as my old OWB finally rusted through beyond repair. I'm running fairly dry wood through it, but after a month of use there is quite a bit of extremely hard creosote lumps building up and lining my scotch marine tubes. Both the vertical and horizontal. It seems to be burning cleanly, so I'm not sure what could be causing this to happen. I also can't clean it off because they are too hard for the wire brushes to remove.
Anyone else experience this? Should I be concerned about this buildup? How do others remove this buildup?
I'll see if I can get some pictures tomorrow.
Thanks!
James.
my neighbor has one not shure the model but it is pretty big.....he gets creosote build up also.....keep an eye on your exhaust pipe....his boiler was not working right would not heat up to temp..... we found out the top of the pipe it had a rain cap on it at the time.......but it was plugged down to a 4 inch hole instead of 8....choked it bad and would not run right...
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Regarding Creosote and the P&M Optimizer 250. You should contact the dealer regarding the leaking door seal as this should be covered by your warranty. In addition it is important to make sure that your airflow is adjusted correctly, these are the 2 handles on the airbox at the back. The Optimizer is designed to burn clean, some people tend to close the airvalves up to smolder the fire and burn less wood, this will generally result in Creosote and Smoke. The Optimizers heat exchanger is also suppose to be cleaned out approx ever 2 weeks to keep things clean and operating properly. Most of this is in their operating manual, they have also just released a revised one specifically for the 250..Regards
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Go to www.tcwilson.com (http://www.tcwilson.com) and look for the expanding wire brush. These things will clean anything from the tubes leaving them like new. get the 1 5/8" brush. They are a little pricey $120.00 but make cleaning a snap. You will have to get a rod and attach it too a drill.
Does the 1 5/8" brush work with both the 1 1/2" and 2" heat exchanger tubes, Coolidge? I've been having a merry-go-round exchange of emails with tcwilson trying to buy a brush - but haven't been able to verify if one brush will clean both sets of tubes.
Thanks!
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We sell a kit that goes on the cordless drill, it's not a brush but kinda a piece of spring steel that expands to the tube walls and cleans them, I've never had to use one but for those who don't clean the tubes regularly it is a lifesaver, it does not and can not damage the tubes as well.
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James, the 1 5/8 brush will only clean the horizontal tubes. You would be better of too just call them.