Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: victor6deep on December 03, 2012, 04:00:18 PM
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Took my stove apart and filled the rest of the gaps and cracks with r19. The cylinder was wrapped with r30 and I also insulated the back compartment and door pretty tight along with the pex lines. I left the pump open space tho so it don't overheat if possible. My temp gauge and aquastat are 10 degrees off now which is fine I just set the aquastat to meet the real temp and boy oh boy am I saving a boatload of wood.
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How long did that take you?
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Well the first day I wasn't able to get all the steel off so I got the socket I needed and did it right completely with even coverage. The photos I posted was kinda half assed which I must be ocd because I did it over again until it was perfect. I used a good 6 rolls of r19 for the whole stove and I would say a good 3 hours but it sure helped a crapload.
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I'm curious as to why you where seeing a 10 degree difference between your thermostat and you aquastat. Do you have more than one probe on your stove?
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did your stove have alot of insulation viods or did you just decide to add 'more' ?
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I pretty much filled in what the circular r30 didn't. You could say I squared it up LOL and it made a noticeable difference in burn times etc. I think insulating the pex and back cabinet was a game changer IMO as far as stopping heat loss. I spray foamed every little seam in the steel siding louvers also which pretty much makes it almost air tight. It took 3 hours but probably burns for more than 3 hours where it was before.
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I've been meaning to pull the roof off of mine to see what the insulation situation looks like but I haven't yet. Maybe next summer. I did add more to the back panel though.
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Wishi would have done this three months ago. Oh well, next spring. :thumbup:
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I've been meaning to pull the roof off of mine to see what the insulation situation looks like but I haven't yet. Maybe next summer. I did add more to the back panel though.
I wouldn't think you would need to remove the roof unless that's the only way to strip off the side panels. If a person makes the house efficient and make the wood stove efficient I would say you will spend more time watching tv and drinking beer versus having to fill your stove more often. It really does make a big difference and if you think about it why wouldn't it? I noticed the heat I was losing at the stove in the cabinet I am losing in the basement where my pex is once again exposed. Good luck
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I mentioned using pipe insulation on the pex in another post and I was told it wouldn't make a big difference. Keep us posted.
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That is like saying don't insulate your underground pex cuz it wont lose heat. That comment made me laugh at how lazy some people are.
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Took my stove apart and filled the rest of the gaps and cracks with r19. The cylinder was wrapped with r30 and I also insulated the back compartment and door pretty tight along with the pex lines. I left the pump open space tho so it don't overheat if possible. My temp gauge and aquastat are 10 degrees off now which is fine I just set the aquastat to meet the real temp and boy oh boy am I saving a boatload of wood.
Let us know how much you save on wood in the real deep freeze if we ever get one...You say you saving a boat load a wood.. So Instead of filling it twice a day..Now once? or every other day?. Nothing wrong what you did..Just curious
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I added an entire roll of the R30 to the back of my stove and used that foam board with the foil backing over both my access doors to fill the rest of the gap. I noticed a definite increase in the amount of time between my burn cycles.
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I added an entire roll of the R30 to the back of my stove and used that foam board with the foil backing over both my access doors to fill the rest of the gap. I noticed a definite increase in the amount of time between my burn cycles.
Sweet!!!