Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: CountryBoyJohn on January 15, 2013, 08:06:23 AM
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First off, I just found this forum a few days ago, and this is an incredible resource. Thank you all you knowledgeable contributors out there. You are a huge asset!
I am in the early stages of getting set up with an OWB by next winter. My question is this: Is there such thing as too much boiler? I live in Indiana. Phase II requirements are in affect. However, there is a provision that allows "conventional" OWB that generate 350,000 BTU's or more. I have spoken with a Heatmaster dealer, and he quoted me the G200 as well as the MF10,000. The MF is actually a bit cheaper than the G200. I would prefer the lower maintenance that comes with the traditional and I like the idea of burning "anything."
My home is approximately 3,000 SFT, broken into 3 parts, upstairs, main floor, and bonus room above the garage. Each part has its own furnace. They are all electric!! (Thus, why I am looking at OWB's.) I want to install a space heater in the garage. I have a hot tub and a pool. I don't want to heat the pool now, but might in the distant future. I have 2 water heaters. While it sounds like I have plenty to utilize the boiler, I'm concerned that the 10,000 is too much. I've read about keeping a minimum temp to prevent deterioration to the boiler, and that is achieved by "using" the boiler.
Thoughts? Concerns?
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Don't worry about it, I'd much rather use the 10,000 than the g200.
Because your heating less space doesn't mean your needing to run your boiler at a lower temp, set it as normal, 170-180.
The stove could potentially idle longer being over sized, but with proper wood care and regular maintenance it won't be an issue.
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First off, I just found this forum a few days ago, and this is an incredible resource. Thank you all you knowledgeable contributors out there. You are a huge asset!
I am in the early stages of getting set up with an OWB by next winter. My question is this: Is there such thing as too much boiler? I live in Indiana. Phase II requirements are in affect. However, there is a provision that allows "conventional" OWB that generate 350,000 BTU's or more. I have spoken with a Heatmaster dealer, and he quoted me the G200 as well as the MF10,000. The MF is actually a bit cheaper than the G200. I would prefer the lower maintenance that comes with the traditional and I like the idea of burning "anything."
My home is approximately 3,000 SFT, broken into 3 parts, upstairs, main floor, and bonus room above the garage. Each part has its own furnace. They are all electric!! (Thus, why I am looking at OWB's.) I want to install a space heater in the garage. I have a hot tub and a pool. I don't want to heat the pool now, but might in the distant future. I have 2 water heaters. While it sounds like I have plenty to utilize the boiler, I'm concerned that the 10,000 is too much. I've read about keeping a minimum temp to prevent deterioration to the boiler, and that is achieved by "using" the boiler.
Thoughts? Concerns?
you have three electric furnaces now...add the max output of the btu on their name plates and make sure your new OWB is at least twice as big or bigger. ( i believe electric furnaces are near 90 percent or more efficient)
an OWB that is not phase 2 is likely only about 50 or 55 percent efficient maybe even go more than twice as big for future heating of any more square footage than your electric furnaces are heating now
just my two cents worth anyhow. i am sure there is more to come from others
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The 10,000 is a big stove!!!!
Here is my wife sitting in the firebox lol
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t387/Scott7m/a1df470a.jpg)
Climbing out!
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t387/Scott7m/e633ca06.jpg)
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Wait a minute - My 10K didnt come with that insert :bash:
Oh well, I love it just the same, even though Id be running out to check it every 10 minutes if she was inside LOL :o
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lol shewww
I can't get her to load my stove, any suggestions?
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now that you know she fits...perhaps she should sleep with one eye open >:D
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I would go with the MF10,000 long before the G200. We sell the MF10,000 for $7,500 and the G200 for $8,900 and the MF10,000 is twice the stove. Thank the good folks at the EPA for that nonsense.
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I would go with the MF10,000 long before the G200. We sell the MF10,000 for $7,500 and the G200 for $8,900 and the MF10,000 is twice the stove. Thank the good folks at the EPA for that nonsense.
I figured you all were the only ones with standard 10,000's.
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They dealer I talked to out of Jasper Indiana has the Standard 10,000 vs. the 10,000E.
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They dealer I talked to out of Jasper Indiana has the Standard 10,000 vs. the 10,000E.
That's good... I like the standard 10 much better, it's as simple as it can be compared to that g200
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Scott,
Why do not like the E ? I really feel like this was a good improvment for capturing more heat ? I do however wish it was backward so the first bypass was at the rear drawing smoke away from the door area.
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If my CB e-classic 1400 had an insert like that I'd never close the door! :-X
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Scott,
Why do not like the E ? I really feel like this was a good improvment for capturing more heat ? I do however wish it was backward so the first bypass was at the rear drawing smoke away from the door area.
I do like the e, but when comparing it to the current g200, I'd much rather have the standard 10 or the e.
The only thing I don't like about the e series is that tube set up on the back that caused problems, and from a dealer perspective, they are more problematic. Let me explain...
When I sold my e series stoves, folks wanted them for the added efficiency, but then I come back and say hey I'm taking some of that away because it's a fire hazard, so I plug the top draft. Folks didn't like that understandably. Then, as far as ease of use, you won't beleive how many people buy them and call back 3 months later and want a service call simply because they won't clean the top by pass of the stove out. I have done 3 in the last couple months, just show up, run the tool through the top passes a few times, do a general cleaning. For most customers a couple pieces of wood per day is less important to them than cleaning out the top by pass once every couple weeks, it takes what? 3 minutes? Sad but true
As of right now I'm wanting to burn a MF3000E next year at my home, im debating on a few things, perhaps installing logstor pipe, and teaming it up with a grundfos alpha pump, it only pulls 40watts.
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I have the 10000E model and love it. Really have learned how to use the wood in it very well. It works best if not stuffed full. Keep a good bed of cools and I put around 5pcs of wood in it twice a day. We cut wood at 25 inches long and it works great at that size. If done right you will only have to empty your ash pan about ever 3 weeks. As far as the E model having that 2nd bypass and keeping it clean no big deal takes 10 minutes at the max. I do mine the same time I dump the ash pan. I did plug the whole for the 2nd airflow but Heatmaster sent me a kit to get it back. Just haven't taken the time to put it in yet. Hope you get it going and save a bunch of money and trust me it is a lot of money.
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Well I'm not sure what the inside of the g200 looks like, but right now I have the g400 and it has air injection tubes that are on both sides of the door just inside and I have had them plug up many times so far this year, especially when we have warmer days. It has plugged off right to the point that no air gets through and the water temp just drops. I had a heck of a time finding something that I could get down the air tubes to clean them out, turned out a urinal power snake finally made its way to break through the cresote to get the air flowing again. But again the problem is everytime it gets warmer again, the boiler is so efficient that it smolders when not calling for heat to raise the water temp, that the tubes plug again. I got so tired of it that I made a deal with my dealer on trading it in for a 10000e. I will be actually changing it out tomorrow.
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Yea, had a lady in Canada I've been dealing with, she's trading hurt g200 in for a 3000
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What are the drawbacks to long idle times?
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Anytime a stove is properly sized it just burns cleaner is the main thing.... Less build up, easier on door gaskets n such, it can be managed and dealt with though
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So, I did some double checking on the size of my house. Apparently it is larger than I thought. The apprisal estimate on my square footage did not include the room above my garage. So, here is where I am now.
First Floor Furnace = 1750 SFT
Second Floor Furnace = 1150 SFT
Garage = 900 SFT
Bonus room Furnace = 800 SFT
2 Water heaters
1 Hot Tub
1 inground pool (long ways off to heat possibly)
Windows are terrible. Curtains blow with them closed!
I am beginning to think that the MF10,000 won't be too much boiler after all! I don't think the MF5,000 would get the job done! Thoughts?
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Forget any 5000's with that much
I wouldn't put anything less than a 10,000E on that
The standard 10 isn't as efficient, so not likely a good choice