Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: baldwin racing on January 18, 2013, 03:14:21 AM
-
how good is there warranty? paper says 25 year limited but 10 year on everything except electrical? My neighbor stopped over last night at 10 just as i was headed to bed since i have to be up at 4am...to go to work....He asked me if i could help him with his boiler......I said ok he said he is not getting heat in the house but boiler is up to temp......Figured circulator pump....no problem i bought him a spare for his 50th birthday couple months ago so he would have a spare.....we filled system, figured it boiled over do to water not flowing....shut down boiler and changed pump turned it back on and looked water level was down again......I said oh no.......he filled it again this time i had door open on fire box and i could here water......I said f--k....opened his ash pan door water came flowing out......it is leaking on the grates were cold water comes threw when it enters back into boiler........now my ? is the dealer he bought it from is no longer selling them and we live out in no mans land in northern ny on canada border? how should we go about this? call factory direct? mind you it is 10 below here this morning..... lol he had not very much fuel oil since he does not use it....so i went at 4 am this morning and picked up 5 gal diesel and dumped it in his house tank.....so he would have heat.....boiler is 4 years old going on 5 mfg 08
thanks for any info
kelly
-
Hate to say it but that is exactly why you need a boiler return protection valve like a Danfoss 3-way mixing valve. Empyre now makes these mandatory with every boiler purchase or warranty is void. Keeps return temp. above 140 F. and avoids boiler shock in that precise location.
Let us know what P+M does for him. Posting on here will grab their attention! :thumbup:
-
Call P&M and raise some cane! If you get help, which I think you will, it's still gonna cost him.
Sounds like it rusted out right where I often warn about. It's hard for me to beleive P&M don't require some form of protection.
In a perfect world it wouldn't be needed, but if I design a system making sure my Delta T is perfect, install it, leave, and then the customer later adds am addition or hot tub my whole design is screwed. That's why the companies have to do something to protect themselves.
-
Call P&M and raise some cane! If you get help, which I think you will, it's still gonna cost him.
Sounds like it rusted out right where I often warn about. It's hard for me to beleive P&M don't require some form of protection.
In a perfect world it wouldn't be needed, but if I design a system making sure my Delta T is perfect, install it, leave, and then the customer later adds am addition or hot tub my whole design is screwed. That's why the companies have to do something to protect themselves.
ok guys i will let you know how he makes out....I have ben in his shoes before.... and thats why I went to my thermal-control instead of another royall because i do know the owner on a persnal level....and has 20year non prorated warranty.....and he stands behind them.....I hope p&m will do the same....
kelly
-
The rust out the p m experienced would fail whether the system was pressurized or not.. He's just gotta stick it out and keep on em
-
Let me rephrase, the rust that occurred sounds like a typical rust out from the moisture of the fuel gathering on a cold spot in the firebox, near the return. Historically, pressurized systems have been better in regards to rust because they are closed to the atmosphere and don't require boiler treatment. The open systems have came a long way though and with a proven boiler treatment, they'll be fine, but treatment is a must
-
Let me rephrase, the rust that occurred sounds like a typical rust out from the moisture of the fuel gathering on a cold spot in the firebox, near the return. Historically, pressurized systems have been better in regards to rust because they are closed to the atmosphere and don't require boiler treatment. The open systems have came a long way though and with a proven boiler treatment, they'll be fine, but treatment is a must
I knew what you ment scott....lol the chemicals and samples have help the owb industries to get them to last for shure.......we called P&M.... it is leaking if you open exhaust top back by stack go about 12 inches in buy the return like you said.....and there is 2 pen size holes pissing up into the exhaust in return leaking down into ash pan.... we have to send them pics and email them to p&M and go from there but one of the owners said i can weld a patch on it so he can use it...I told him i weld chromoly chassis and so on i can mig,tig and stick weld....he told me to fix it.....for now....so he can heat his house......i will post pics scott of the pin holes.....the guy from P&M said well there may not be a warranty on the unit if there was naglect (can not spell lol)he cleans it all the time in that area on a daily baises...... I said $8800 and no warranty i would flip.....and only get 4 years out of it......my buddy told him no warranty i wont buy another one from you if thats the case and everyone will know about it to..... because it will be out front of or busy highway with a sign on it and will have pics of it on facebook to share with everyone.....lol I said along with on owb website to...... ;D
we will see i will keep you posted owner going to call us around 9-10 tommorow
kelly
-
Let me rephrase, the rust that occurred sounds like a typical rust out from the moisture of the fuel gathering on a cold spot in the firebox, near the return. Historically, pressurized systems have been better in regards to rust because they are closed to the atmosphere and don't require boiler treatment. The open systems have came a long way though and with a proven boiler treatment, they'll be fine, but treatment is a must
I knew what you ment scott....lol the chemicals and samples have help the owb industries to get them to last for shure.......we called P&M.... it is leaking if you open exhaust top back by stack go about 12 inches in and there is 2 pen size holes pissing up into the exhaust in return leaking down into ash pan.... we have to send them pics and email them to p&M and go from there but one of the owners said i can weld a patch on it so he can use it...I told him i weld chromoly chassis and so on i can mig,tig and stick weld....he told me to fix it.....for now....so he can heat his house......i will post pics scott of the pin holes.....the guy from P&M said well there may not be a warranty on the unit if there was naglect (can not spell lol)he cleans it all the time in that area on a daily baises...... I said $8800 and no warranty i would flip.....and only get 4 years out of it......my buddy told him no warranty i wont buy another one from you if thats the case and everyone will know about it to..... because it will be out front of or busy highway with a sign on it and will have pics of it on facebook to share with everyone.....lol I said along with on owb website to...... ;D
we will see i will keep you posted owner going to call us around 9-10 tommorow
kelly
thanks scott for your help....
-
I know the feeling. I've had 2 leaks in my CB E-2300 last year. Same age. Installed in 2008. Both were pretty easy to fix. But I think I'm looking at having new side walls and ceiling welded in this summer or by 2014 for sure. I see a lot of pitting. Doesn't make me very happy.
Sure, they'll cover some welding charges. They may even take it back and do a good fix for you. But you will most likely have to pay a substantial shipping charge. They can and will hide behind an easy "corrosion" excuse. I truely do look forward to seeing how they handle this one. I've been considering getting one of their units in the future. This is a good test for me to see.
Good luck!!!!
-
I know the feeling. I've had 2 leaks in my CB E-2300 last year. Same age. Installed in 2008. Both were pretty easy to fix. But I think I'm looking at having new side walls and ceiling welded in this summer or by 2014 for sure. I see a lot of pitting. Doesn't make me very happy.
Sure, they'll cover some welding charges. They may even take it back and do a good fix for you. But you will most likely have to pay a substantial shipping charge. They can and will hide behind an easy "corrosion" excuse. I truely do look forward to seeing how they handle this one. I've been considering getting one of their units in the future. This is a good test for me to see.
Good luck!!!!
reporting in.....
p&M guy call us they wanted to send a new heat exchanger and have me weld it all in.......but he said to check the grate area and make shure that it is good....well grate area was good but scrapped just under door and i hear pissss.... all rotted about 4-5 inch under door also.... now the guy said well i will batt for you if you still give us a good name in your area and I will see if we can get you a new one....going to call tonight or tommorow and let us know.....dont know what it will cost for the new upgraded one....(wanted him to pay $3,000 to upgrade and shipping)for epa stuff but i will let you know how we make out as it goes....
kelly
-
I know the feeling. I've had 2 leaks in my CB E-2300 last year. Same age. Installed in 2008. Both were pretty easy to fix. But I think I'm looking at having new side walls and ceiling welded in this summer or by 2014 for sure. I see a lot of pitting. Doesn't make me very happy.
Sure, they'll cover some welding charges. They may even take it back and do a good fix for you. But you will most likely have to pay a substantial shipping charge. They can and will hide behind an easy "corrosion" excuse. I truely do look forward to seeing how they handle this one. I've been considering getting one of their units in the future. This is a good test for me to see.
Good luck!!!!
[/quote
P&M now makes a brand new for this year a epa ML30 it has a flat bottom with firebrick with no water under firebox just has water on top, sides,and back they are supposed to be better than the old ones anyone here about this yet? (same as what my thermal-control has just not pressurized I dont think?) anyone have any info?
thanks kelly
reporting in.....
p&M guy call us they wanted to send a new heat exchanger and have me weld it all in.......but he said to check the grate area and make shure that it is good....well grate area was good but scrapped just under door and i hear pissss.... all rotted about 4-5 inch under door also.... now the guy said well i will batt for you if you still give us a good name in your area and I will see if we can get you a new one....going to call tonight or tommorow and let us know.....dont know what it will cost for the new upgraded one....(wanted him to pay $3,000 to upgrade and shipping)for epa stuff but i will let you know how we make out as it goes....
kelly
-
yeah ive heard about it.... i dont think thats gonna help the problem there trying to prevent. you have to fix the return water temps first, then that will go away
-
yeah ive heard about it.... i dont think thats gonna help the problem there trying to prevent. you have to fix the return water temps first, then that will go away
scott forgot to mention they will send a deverter valve with new unit also?
-
that sounds good, i hope what they are calling a deverter valve is a danfoss thermostatic valve.
I didnt realize the leak you all had was in the top however..
-
that sounds good, i hope what they are calling a deverter valve is a danfoss thermostatic valve.
I didnt realize the leak you all had was in the top however..
i scrapped along under neath the door bottom and found a bad spot as well water came spitting out there to....
rep told me to look there also....
kelly
-
I guess I'am dense whats a deverter valve do?
-
I guess I'am dense whats a deverter valve do?
its actually a thermostatic valve. it controls your return water temps, when return water temps drop below 140 it bleeds in some hot water from the supply side keeping the return temps from becoming low enough to cause damage to your boiler.
cold return temps can casuse the moisture from the wood gather on cool spots on the firebox and run down into the ashes leading to early death. its an effort to prevent that, some companies require that now
-
Thanks.
-
I guess I'am dense whats a deverter valve do?
its actually a thermostatic valve. it controls your return water temps, when return water temps drop below 140 it bleeds in some hot water from the supply side keeping the return temps from becoming low enough to cause damage to your boiler.
cold return temps can casuse the moisture from the wood gather on cool spots on the firebox and run down into the ashes leading to early death. its an effort to prevent that, some companies require that now
scott here is the new P&M boiler not out to the public not a gaser but meats epa reg.what do you think?
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
This seam to take some design features from the ml25 they came out with a couple years ago. Wonder how much better it burns, did they square the bottom of the firebox and line it, or is it just a lined ml30 with a new outer shell, hard to tell from the pictures.
-
This seam to take some design features from the ml25 they came out with a couple years ago. Wonder how much better it burns, did they square the bottom of the firebox and line it, or is it just a lined ml30 with a new outer shell, hard to tell from the pictures.
bottom and 12 inches up sides is lined with firebrick....looks like a rounded bottom but still has ash pan....i was trrying to figure out if it has water all the way around it or if it's like my thermal-control that does not have any water under firebox....
kelly
-
This seam to take some design features from the ml25 they came out with a couple years ago. Wonder how much better it burns, did they square the bottom of the firebox and line it, or is it just a lined ml30 with a new outer shell, hard to tell from the pictures.
bottom and 12 inches up sides is lined with firebrick....flat bottom but still has ash pan....i was trrying to figure out if it has water all the way around it or if it's like my thermal-control that does not have any water under firebox....
kelly
Wondering the same thing about the water and if something like this could be applied to an ml30 without harming it. Would be nice if a little refratory material could make a cleaner fire. Although reading it again it says the top water jacket in flanged to the bottom refractory brick for easy dissassembly.