Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: netwerx-r-us on January 27, 2013, 06:51:28 AM
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Morning all , Saturday morning I got up to put wood in the fire and opened it up , still pretty much full, went around back and looked at temp and it was 68 degrees ! oh crape ! So took the wood out and looked and a bed of ashes had built up in the back basically blocking the 2 chimney ports, cleaned that all out and the boiler got up to 100 degrees, still not good , fire going but i notice when i open door it feeds it much more air and fire springs to life , fan is running fine feeding it air, i can feel and hear it inside , so I look to the chimney , last night at 900 I'm running a 6 brush down it but only so far , it splits in to a y to 2 separate chambers, so last night I checked it stayed about 100 degrees, no more, fan running , smoke is coming out the chimney but not as much as usual , usually when i got a good fire going and open the door I get a roman candle for about 2 mins , no such thing today , so i go back to the brush and use the handle end and run it thru both sides , it appears to be clear and i can see it when i open the door if i run it all the way down ,
I don't believe its electronics, the sensor reads 100, its set at 170 , the fan is open and running , i believe its stopped up as I have been burning a lot of green and wet wood , here a pic of the firebox ( new one ) how would you clean one of these out , like at I stated i used the handle end and was able to punch it through,
am I missing something here ? is there something else to look at for this symptom of the temp not going up ,
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Nice looking stove? I like the design but I don't have a great answer for you. The only thing that it makes me think of is that if your chimney looks clear it must be in your intake side, flapper ( if used ) stuck or fan not blowing/ plugged?
I agree make shure the flap is not stuck closed or bearings not going bad on fan, check the complete air passage way for something clogging in....if exhaust is clean checking it with a light try not to het smoked out when doing this....lol, then thats what it has to be something with the intake....
kelly
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First set it at 170-180 and see if your flapper might be stuck with cresote back draft. I ran my stove at 160-170 anf it is really a noticable difference messy wise vs 170-180. Run em hot
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I would say your Y chamber is caked up with creosote. 170-180 temp
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update: , I was able to punch a 4 inch brush all the way thru to the bottom and can see it on the inside on both sides so its clear now , the fan is turning and not making noise so i think ill remove it and see what that passage way looks like and see if there is a valve on the other side of the fan that may be caked up ,
also took the fan assembly off , all looks good with fan , temp is climbing, back to 123 now , we'll wait n see
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ok back up to 175 and idling now , so apparently it was stopped up , that's interesting , little over a month and a half and stopped up , guess i need to cut back on the green wood and burn it hotter
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If green wood is all you have then yes I would run 170-180 to keep the fire hot and active. If you have a chimney cap maybe remove that also if all you have is green wood.
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I have a 400 SF and i have noticed that if it is warm out and i am not calling for much heat it get a lot of buildup in the fire box i am running 160 170 when it gets colder it all gets burnt up and looks fine dont know where you live or how your temptures are but i would think going up 5 or 10 deg would help you a lot with burning out the buildup
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If I were burning green wood I would try to run my stove at least 180, it should extend the length of time you can go between cleanings.
I would also adjust my differential to a larger margin, Likely 180 off 165 on, the longer burn from 165-180 would result in higher chamber temps and likely burn off more creosote.
ive seen folks try to run them under 5 with wood and its basically a recipe for creosote in a conventional boiler.