Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Central Boiler => Topic started by: hddmax66 on February 11, 2013, 09:55:29 AM
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ok so the last 2 days its been in the 30's and my 6048 seems to be having a burn cycle every 1.5 to 2 hours. This seems odd as there is no heat load on the burner. i dont remember it this way last year. i heat my house, garage and hot water. I have a temp gauge on the out and in of the wood burner. looks to be a 3 degree loss in temp.
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ok i just checked it again and it looks like a 5 degree difference. The water runs one loop to my house, plate exchanger, then to the garge and back to the burner.
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How are you checking it? Could be some variables
Wood use increased?
If it's truly 5 and your not using heat then that's a little high
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check your damper for crap around it and make sure your door seal is ok.
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check your damper for crap around it and make sure your door seal is ok.
If that were the case it would be cycling even less, because it would be gettin air even when it wasn't needing it.
Hopefully how he's checkin his temps isn't accurate
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i have a temp and pressure gauge combo that i got from menards on both the in and out on the boiler behind the door. it seems so weird that its doin this and not even very cold out. the odd part is i havent changed anything or done anything different.
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Have you noticed an increase in wood use?
How long did you think it idled before
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check your damper for crap around it and make sure your door seal is ok.
If that were the case it would be cycling even less, because it would be gettin air even when it wasn't needing it.
Hopefully how he's checkin his temps isn't accurate
yep I understand.
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Not trying to be a smart a$$, honest. But I read a post from January 2012 with this concern. Was your CB a new install with new pex lines? Is it possible heat loss to the ground? Can you switch your temp guages, maybe one is defective?
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If his gauges are accurate and such he could have a line issue, it has to go somewhere.
Maybe a pump issue? If it were taking a long time make the loop it could cool more.... Hard tellin
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I would say there is an increase in wood but its hard to tell. Ive switched back and forth from oak and pine and have been out of town off and on so my gf was taking care of it. When i installed it i used thermo pex and barried it 4 feet under ground. I feel even with my temp gauges were defective that its burning way more then normal. I timed it last night. the burner shut down at 11:13 and fired back up at 12:54. the heat in the house only kicked on once. the temp outside was 25 degrees. I know i do loose heat where my furnace is because it stays pretty hot in there and will alone heat the house to pretty much anything above 35 degrees. i dont consider that lost heat as its heating the house and saving me money by not having the fan kick on as much in the furnace. Same with the garage. Last year i heated my garage for a few weeks in the cold of winter before i insulated it and i feel the burner still runs more now the when it did then. I have a small 900 sq feet home and 900 sq feet garage. i bought the 6048 as overkill and wanted it bigger for when i build my new house
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If his gauges are accurate and such he could have a line issue, it has to go somewhere.
Maybe a pump issue? If it were taking a long time make the loop it could cool more.... Hard tellin
Just curious. Regardless if the water ran slow or fast wouldnt the same amount of btu's be takin from the water?
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Well, I now feel you do have an issue
That's nearly 400 gallons of water cooling down what I would guess to be 10 degrees, by a fan kicking on one time in a 900sq ft home....
3,360 pounds of water cooling down 10 degrees.... 1 btu per pound of water. 33,600 btu lost????
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If his gauges are accurate and such he could have a line issue, it has to go somewhere.
Maybe a pump issue? If it were taking a long time make the loop it could cool more.... Hard tellin
Just curious. Regardless if the water ran slow or fast wouldnt the same amount of btu's be takin from the water?
Yea... Ur homes requirements would stay the same, imwas just thinking if you killed your flow somehow and it was taking forever to return that it might cool down that much...
Turn on your heat and hot water and check the difference between supply and return when you get chance, I'm curious
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ok here we go.
NO LOAD
burner 182
out 175
return 170
WATER ONLY tub and kitchen sink
out 175
return 140
HOUSE ONLY
out 175
return 155
GARAGE ONLY
out 175
return 142
HOUSE, GARAGE, HOT WATER
burner 184
out 175
return 105
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Im no expert but do commercial HVAC by trade. I feel your delta T is high. I like to keep mine at 15-20*F and never let return temps get below 140 to prevent firebox condensation. You need more GPM in my opinion. Yes you wouldn't be pulling as Much btu from the boiler but you will be saving the thing from corrosion. Possibility you have terrible water and stuff is getting plugged up?
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Im no expert but do commercial HVAC by trade. I feel your delta T is high. I like to keep mine at 15-20*F and never let return temps get below 140 to prevent firebox condensation. You need more GPM in my opinion. Yes you wouldn't be pulling as Much btu from the boiler but you will be saving the thing from corrosion. Possibility you have terrible water and stuff is getting plugged up?
I completely understand and yes i do think a larger pump would be nice. 97% of the time all my heat loads are not running at once so i think im fine there. Also the return is at the bottom of the burner and gets mixed and heated back up quick when i comes in contact the the 185 degree water. I was under the impressson that the condensation comes from when the total wood burner temp goes below 150?? Are you saying you think my pump is causing the wood burner to burn more? Now that you say something i think it would be a good idea to clean the y strainer i have not checked it yet.
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Thanks everyone that takes the time to help and give me ideas. I really do appreciate it.
THANK YOU
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No the entire boiler don't have to go under, just one spot. Many times they rust out right where the return flow hits the firebox, but when boiler temps are under 150 completely is when it would be rare, cause likely it would be out of wood and no moisture there to gather
Your delta t's are rather large, it seems your often near the danger zone and if all 3 are in use you are in the red so to speak
What size pump u have?
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I have the 009. I did the worse case with the hot water. I had the hot tub all the way open and the sink all the open. We rarely take baths in the hot tub. I also have the low flow shower heads which when running barely drop the return temp.
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011 would likely work much better in your situation
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I will take your advice. I always wanted a back up pump on hand but never pulled the trigger. Ill put the 011 pump on and leave the 009 for the back up. But i still dont think that would be the answer to my problem. Or maybe i dont have a problem. Idk
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Well you'll def be movin more water, I'm sure used your stove doesnt have a thermo valve from cb
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i see there are a 011-f4 like 240ish and a 011-bf4 on differnt site for 189. what sthe diff? do you know which one i need? I did not install the thermo valve and my temp has never been below 160. i only hit 160 once before.
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i see there are a 011-f4 like 240ish and a 011-bf4 on differnt site for 189. what sthe diff? do you know which one i need? I did not install the thermo valve and my temp has never been below 160. i only hit 160 once before.
Looks to me like your well below 160 all the time....
Thermovalve doesn't keep the tank above 150, it keeps the return temps above 150! If you ever have an issue, cb isn't even gonna talk to ya.
I'll look about those pumps for you, not sure what the different is off the topmof my head
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Bf4 is a discontinued bronze model....
The other is the regular one...
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Might consider a 2400-20
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i see there are a 011-f4 like 240ish and a 011-bf4 on differnt site for 189. what sthe diff? do you know which one i need? I did not install the thermo valve and my temp has never been below 160. i only hit 160 once before.
Looks to me like your well below 160 all the time....
Thermovalve doesn't keep the tank above 150, it keeps the return temps above 150! If you ever have an issue, cb isn't even gonna talk to ya.
I'll look about those pumps for you, not sure what the different is off the topmof my head
Can you show me the info on this? As far i know and read this is not true.
And how will the boiler rust out at the point where the water returns from condensation?
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Yea it's likely in your manual from cb, it is in all the new ones
Empyre requires the same thing too on there gassers
Yea if it creates a cold sport eater can condensate on that area, rust and cause water to drip into the ashes....
It is required of cb and empyre for warranty