Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: victor6deep on February 23, 2013, 02:57:19 PM
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Curious how many on this site keep their water treated but run a lower setting than 180 degrees? Really trying to figure if these lower temp settings can shorten the life of a stove or if this is all BS. This is for those with nongassers-
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I appreciate your response. I am just trying to find people on this site with stoves or people they know that have ran them cooler with no issues. Thanks again
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It's not a question really. It's science. Just look at any boiler, it doesn't have to be a wood boiler, go look at any gas boiler you want, it's going to have a primary and a secondary loop...
This stuff isn't my opinion, Willie was curious about it himself past year and posted links from the Canadian govt on the dangers of running a boiler to cold.
That's not to say that if you don't do this it's not gonna last, but there are endless cases where cold temps caused a failure.
However,why would one not want to run it at 170-180 and keep return temps proper?? There is no benefits there to be had, so it's not like your sacrificing something so to speak
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Scott my only concern is I don't have a insulated door on my stove so I am wondering how much heat I am pissing away.
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I'm sure your losing a little, but unless you see severe condensation and creosote just inside the door I wouldn't worry much
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I guess my question is why would you want to go below 180. Isn't that the "golden number" for heating a house.. Your boiler isn't gonna work any harder if it was set at 150 or set at 180 or whatever desired temp..Just set the temp and forget it.. :D
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I guess my question is why would you want to go below 180. Isn't that the "golden number" for heating a house.. Your boiler isn't gonna work any harder if it was set at 150 or set at 180 or whatever desired temp..Just set the temp and forget it.. :D
teh "golden number" is just for easier figuring when designing a heat load..180 degree water when figuring a delta of 20 (another golden number in design) will carry 10,000 btu per hour (easier figuring in tens)
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I guess my question is why would you want to go below 180. Isn't that the "golden number" for heating a house.. Your boiler isn't gonna work any harder if it was set at 150 or set at 180 or whatever desired temp..Just set the temp and forget it.. :D
teh "golden number" is just for easier figuring when designing a heat load..180 degree water when figuring a delta of 20 (another golden number in design) will carry 10,000 btu per hour (easier figuring in tens)
When do you see the oil boiler go over 180F to heat a house? No different than my OWB pumping in 180F water..
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The only reason I am bringing this thread on is that I have 3 close neighbors running non gassers at 150-160. 2 of these stoves are cozeburn made by profab and the other is a homemade. These 3 stoves have went 5yrs with no issues from what these guys are telling me. I looked inside one of the cozeburns and couldn't belive how dirty it was. I could never run my stove that cold just due to the mess I witnessed. Are these people crazy or do they have a point? That's what confuses me, are they gonna make it to 10yrs and spring a leak? I told them I was running 170-180 and they pretty much laughed at me.
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I guess my question is why are they running the stoves at that temp?..They have no point..
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running cooler temps (if you have very poor insulated undergground lines) can help with heat loss to the ground as the delta between your water and the earth would be less than if you were moving 180 degree water. (this would also be true even with good insulated pipes but the saving would be very little and not worth the damage that may be done to yoru equipment)
less spread in the delta = less heat loss
of course this delta also works in your home....the lower the water temps going into the house, the less btu per hour you can deliver. it may be possable that you may not be able to heat your home on a severly cold windy night when your heat loss of your home is at its maximum (if the stars line up correctly)
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The only reason I am bringing this thread on is that I have 3 close neighbors running non gassers at 150-160. 2 of these stoves are cozeburn made by profab and the other is a homemade. These 3 stoves have went 5yrs with no issues from what these guys are telling me. I looked inside one of the cozeburns and couldn't belive how dirty it was. I could never run my stove that cold just due to the mess I witnessed. Are these people crazy or do they have a point? That's what confuses me, are they gonna make it to 10yrs and spring a leak? I told them I was running 170-180 and they pretty much laughed at me.
You laugh back, you are the one doing the research, there the ones who aren't actively seeking knowledge.
Ask them what's so funny?
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The only reason I am bringing this thread on is that I have 3 close neighbors running non gassers at 150-160. 2 of these stoves are cozeburn made by profab and the other is a homemade. These 3 stoves have went 5yrs with no issues from what these guys are telling me. I looked inside one of the cozeburns and couldn't belive how dirty it was. I could never run my stove that cold just due to the mess I witnessed. Are these people crazy or do they have a point? That's what confuses me, are they gonna make it to 10yrs and spring a leak? I told them I was running 170-180 and they pretty much laughed at me.
You laugh back, you are the one doing the research, there the ones who aren't actively seeking knowledge.
Ask them what's so funny?
I laughed just when I opened the door and seen a nasty pile of what was coals and ash I guess. I asked him " so this stuff still burns"? Serious LOL
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I used to do that crap, run it 150-160. Firebox was always harder to keep clean, and it was before I learned a lot about this stuff
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Hey, my observations. I replaced a 1984 Aqua something a year ago. Looked like 1/4 carbon plate. These folk only burnt the worst wood, hemlock slabs green and half rotted stuff. They ran it at 110 or 120 unless it got real cold out. Turns out that thermometer was at a lower elevation in the tank vs the blower control, temp gun says they were int he 140 150 range. Another point is some of the thermal wells for the thermometer extend through the insulation and get a readin from the outer tank. I make sure my control and themometer are at the same elevation since I've determined a 20 to 40 degree difference between top and bottom tank temps, thus transcending.
Just my 2 cents.
Randy
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I keep my 6048 @ 180-190 all year it keeps the o2 out of the water
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Return temps are important for those running proper temp yet sending water back to cold, if your entire water jacket is to cold, that's just as bad...
Look up the amount of dissolved oxygen content in water in regards to temp, that alone is reason enough to make folks want to run proper temps
110-120? Ok
Folks, every time I build a fire for the customer they always freak out and start hollering they have bad leak in the firebox, because the cold water surrounding the firebox makes it sweat like a pig, water will be running down the walls of the firebox and dripping out the Ash pan, once the stove gets up to around 150, this stops
I've been on numerous service calls and seen water running into ash pans, look at the control and there set at like 150, turn it up to 180, no more water .. Next time your water is cold and you build a new fire, watch the water build up on the walls of the firebox
I checked my xt the other day with an infrared thermometer, wasn't a good test but water jacket temp at top was 177, bottom was 174
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I like the 180 setting also and have seen the moisture at cold startup ,like Scott says. Almost all of the supply/return lines in my area are run in what is locally called "mine wastewater pipe". It takes water from mines to a drain or lagoon in sub zero conditions. Basically the core is three inch PVC with about three and a half inches of styroofoam around it and a tough rubber outside coat. A bit too stiff to bend sharply so we have to take other measures at the OWB end. Since our one inch Kitec or Pex is adjacent or touching I suppose it helps with the return water temps. Fairly recent member to this form and wasn't aware that this was such a big concern. Lots to learn!!!
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So 170 to 180 is the preferred setting?
That's where I advise my customers torun there stoves... Central boiler recommends it as well as well as other manufacturers
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Well just overnight I set my temp to 160-170 and noticed the stove is dirty inside and sure smokes a lot more to get the fire active again. Cranked it up to 170-180 and I swear it doesn't cycle as long plus less smoke for sure.
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This is my second year with a OWF. With everyones help and information on this site, my settings are 170 and 180. I don't understand why people read post on this site telling them what the setting should be (170-180) but yet they want to do it different!
170 - 180
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This is my second year with a OWF. With everyones help and information on this site, my settings are 170 and 180. I don't understand why people read post on this site telling them what the setting should be (170-180) but yet they want to do it different!
170 - 180
That chick in your avitar is hott.
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This is my second year with a OWF. With everyones help and information on this site, my settings are 170 and 180. I don't understand why people read post on this site telling them what the setting should be (170-180) but yet they want to do it different!
170 - 180
I agree!...They want to do it different to save wood..Well the wood boiler is gonna work just as hard as if was set at 150 or 180! Gonna burn the same amount of wood!
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This is my second year with a OWF. With everyones help and information on this site, my settings are 170 and 180. I don't understand why people read post on this site telling them what the setting should be (170-180) but yet they want to do it different!
170 - 180
Hey THAT'S MY MOM"s PIC, :)