Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: furjaw on April 02, 2013, 09:35:59 AM
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I have a Central Boiler 5036 outdoor wood furnace which heats the house plus the hot water even in the summer. The pressure tank on my oil furnace is leaking water. Here is the quote to repair it:
This quote is to replace the shut off valves in the system that are bad and to install additional valves in each heat loop on the supply and the return. lnstall shut off valves in the boiler main supply and return. New valves in the supply water line and install new air purge valves in each heat loop. The expansion tank and air vent will also be changed.
The heating system will have to be drained to do this work. After the repairs are complete the system will be filled, all air purged out, and the system put in operation.
TOTAL COST FOR REPAIRS...,$127O.OO
Would I be better off depressurizing the system by eliminating the pressure tank and the heat exchanger?
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Pressurized boilers are meant to be pressurized, I don't recommend changing the design
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Some systems will still work well if you depressurize them. However I can almost guarantee you will void any warranty on the boiler and that you will increase the rate of corrosion in the whole system. You may also have some trouble with getting air in the system and reducing heat depending on how the system is designed.
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Are you using a exchanger? Is you indoor boiler pressurized now? I depressurize my boiler when the OWF is on.
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I think that plumber is throwing you a loop to make a buck..Id be getting a 2nd opinion..That stuff isnt hard to replace/fix..Like scott said I leave it pressurized..The oil boiler is designed to be working pressurized
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I gotta wonder why Central Boiler shows in their manual how to do a direct hookup (no heat exchanger between OWB and oil furnace), essentially depressurizing it? That's what the plumber, who's contracted through CB did to mine. Should I be changing things around to make sure the 21 year old oil furnace is pressurized? Thanks - Roger
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I am in the same boat as Roger I did not use a exchanger thinking it would be more efficient and cheap to hook up to the boiler, once heating season is over I re pressurize it and fire it up for hot water during the summer. I was told as long as I kept the boiler hot and kept the ph in check I was not hurting it.
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I gotta wonder why Central Boiler shows in their manual how to do a direct hookup (no heat exchanger between OWB and oil furnace), essentially depressurizing it? That's what the plumber, who's contracted through CB did to mine. Should I be changing things around to make sure the 21 year old oil furnace is pressurized? Thanks - Roger
The problem of having a direct hook up with a "open owb" with a direct hook (no heat exchanger)..All of your house plumbing for heating is now exposed to the same elements (air) as your OWB..And if your not one to keep up on the maintenance with chemicals on a open owb..I would hate to see the results from yrs of exposure
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I have ben on the fence for 3 yrs now! should I take out the exchanger or rip it out. on one hand its set up in case I cant be home to load the stove my wife goes in basement turns 2 ball valves and plugs the burner in on the other hand I think with out the exchanger my wood boiler wood be more efficient !
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If my unit went out of service it only takes switching 2 ball valves and the oil boiler is back in service.
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MattyNH - I see what you're saying but I still wonder why CB would print something like that knowing that some people will be negligent with their water. I test them once every month to be on the safe side. Perhaps that's overkill but I spent way too much money on the thing not to keep an eye on it. Like johnybcold, I use my oil furnace for hot water in the summer months and all it takes to re-pressurize it is turn on a valve here and there and turn off a valve here and there. I always keep an eye on the pressure guage on the oil furnace to be sure I'm in the safe range. That being said, I've been contemplating purchasing a flat plate heat exchanger to put between the 2 units. Roger
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MattyNH - I see what you're saying but I still wonder why CB would print something like that knowing that some people will be negligent with their water. I test them once every month to be on the safe side. Perhaps that's overkill but I spent way too much money on the thing not to keep an eye on it. Like johnybcold, I use my oil furnace for hot water in the summer months and all it takes to re-pressurize it is turn on a valve here and there and turn off a valve here and there. I always keep an eye on the pressure guage on the oil furnace to be sure I'm in the safe range. That being said, I've been contemplating purchasing a flat plate heat exchanger to put between the 2 units. Roger
You having a "open OWB" and the way your hooked up..You will never have a pressure increase on your oil boiler..I would think CB prints that, cause either way it still works..CB has no control on how the owner operates, maintains the boiler..
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They print something like that simply because it looks easy to hook up, which over time generates a lot of additional sales vs tying it together with a heat exchanger. With it being easier, it attracts more folks. It's all about the money, no matter the company, they don't care what else it tears up, that's not there problem...
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closed system desinged to run closed...unless you have a leak it is most likley you will never add water to this system...very little air in system...virtually no corrosion or dirt...now open teh system and add much more air..and eventually dirt and grime and maybe plug of a reliefe valve so it does not do its job when and if it ever has to...heck that new car you got in the laneway that says use gasoline only...diesel is on sale this week..why not?
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closed system desinged to run closed...unless you have a leak it is most likley you will never add water to this system...very little air in system...virtually no corrosion or dirt...now open teh system and add much more air..and eventually dirt and grime and maybe plug of a reliefe valve so it does not do its job when and if it ever has to...heck that new car you got in the laneway that says use gasoline only...diesel is on sale this week..why not?
right on WillieG!
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closed system desinged to run closed...unless you have a leak it is most likley you will never add water to this system...very little air in system...virtually no corrosion or dirt...now open teh system and add much more air..and eventually dirt and grime and maybe plug of a reliefe valve so it does not do its job when and if it ever has to...heck that new car you got in the laneway that says use gasoline only...diesel is on sale this week..why not?
right on WillieG!
It was hard not to laugh at that one lol
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I have a friend who works at the same place I do but in a different department. He said he can get for me a 5X12, brazed, 50 plate, flat plate heat exchanger for about a $200.00. Is this a good price? He said that it's new. It's just been sitting in the box for last 2 years, unused since someone ordered the wrong one (it's to small)and the boss didn't want to send it back. Now the boss wants to get it out of their shop. When it comes time for me to hook it up, I'll be back to pick your guys brains for assistance. I want to be sure I plumb everything correctly.
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I have a friend who works at the same place I do but in a different department. He said he can get for me a 5X12, brazed, 50 plate, flat plate heat exchanger for about a $200.00. Is this a good price? He said that it's new. It's just been sitting in the box for last 2 years, unused since someone ordered the wrong one (it's to small)and the boss didn't want to send it back. Now the boss wants to get it out of their shop. When it comes time for me to hook it up, I'll be back to pick your guys brains for assistance. I want to be sure I plumb everything correctly.
That's a good deal for sure