Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: uncle on October 15, 2013, 06:31:35 PM
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My OWB is in my barn. The stack comes up 6ft, turns 80-85 degrees and exits the bldg with a 6ft 6" stove pipe.
Does the stack have to end in a vertical orientation or will this work?
Brian
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Sounds like a creosote issue eventually.
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Is it insulated chimney or regular?!
If its insulated you should be fine, burn a batch of cardboard once a month or so and let her eat!!! It will clean it out well
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Let me get this right, you have 6 feet of horizontal pipe sticking out the side of your barn with no vertical stack up the side to above the roof line by 3 feet and you are using a conventional boiler, have you ever seen the sparks and flame that come out of the stacks of a conventional unit. Never mind the smoke and creosote what about the FIRE HAZARD, are you nuts ?
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I've never seen the sparks and flames of an OWB, that's why I come here.
My roof is corrigated and I was leary about going through the roof so I went out the top of the wall. It is not above the roof peak. It comes out in my pig pen.
The pipe is single walled.
I can turn it up and extend it above the peak easy enough, I just didn't want to add another 90.
Brian
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The pigs will probably be unhappy once a month.
What brand stove are you running?
It sounded like the pipe was reduced to 6"?
Garn stoves do this but its fairly low to the ground, very efficient & requires a 55 gallon drum to catch anything.
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Brian, please listen, the stack temps on a conventional wood boiler can go as high as 1200 degrees and wood can combust as low as 600 degrees, there is a reason why outdoor boilers are called outdoor wood boilers, if you feel you need to have the boiler in the barn then there are some precautions you should take. First keep all combustables at least 3 feet from the boiler on all sides, floor and roof, single wall pipe will burn out or rustout in 2 years, use stainless insulated pipe only and keep it clean, bring the top of the pipe at least 3 feet above the roof line and really should be 3 feet above the peak. If you use the unit the way you have it now you are begging for a fire that may cost your family thier lives, get a pro to look at your install
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I'll agree it's not something I'd wanna do with single wall pipe.. I don't trust it to well
I've seen a lot of folks put them in old barns and such though
With a single wall you have a higher fire risk and are def gonna have creosote issues
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I'm running the Earth Worrd MountainMan furnace.
I do not have too much invested in the stove pipe and I can easily re-do this.
I guess the best would really be to run it through the corrigated roof and be done with it. Going through the walls I really did not have to worry about sealing it water tight.
Thanks,
Brian
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Just buy some good double insulated chimney and be able to sleep at night.
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Brian,
I have my stove installed in my shop and have single wall stainless.
They use triple wall 3' before and 2' after the roof though.
I know several people with this setup and no issues.
I would just be leery of the wall penetration and catching anything else on fire.
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I don't understand why u would want it in the barn anyway?
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Its out of the weather, my wood is dry in there, I have access straight to it with my truck and its 1/2 way between the house and the shop so that my runs were not too long.
Brian
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Mine is 10 feet from my shed, 3 logs in my wheelbarrow , 1 minute later, done. Don't have to worry about pipe or fire.
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mine is in a shed...8 inch schedule 40 pipe wrapped in 1200 degree industrial insulation and clad with aluminum sheeting for a chimney....0 degrees and 25 mph wind at 6am and leaving for work...shed is out of the wind, no snow or freezing ice pellets blowing down the crack of my butt and can look over the stove and check things out with the lights on. fill it up and head for work knowing things are working as they should. OWB in a shed? i think its a great idea
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I'm with you willie, under a roof was the best idea I came up with. No tarps, no snow no problem.
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The original statement was a barn, maybe I'm wrong but to me a barn has been used for livestock, probably has planking for a floor, and roughcut 200 year old post and beam, I would not ever go into a barn with a lit cigar, never mind think about a wood stove of any type, if you are really that bothered by the elements, either pull up your panties or build a metal BARN.
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I've never seem a barm with a wood floor around here... There all on dirt and a lot of folks have wood stoves in them to heat a stripping room for tobacco n such
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Barn to me"
16'x32' Steel trusses with 2x6 purlings Cedar poles, dirt floor, corrigated tin on roof and three sides.
Only thing in the bldg is the OWB, 3 cords c/s/s wood, waste oil storage and my biodiesel processor.
Pigs and chickens have their own bldgs.
I'm going to go through the roof but I need a couple adjustable elbows to offset the stovepipe 6 inches.
Brian
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And in your opinion all those combustibles that will be laying on the floor are OK and exiting the wall straight out horizontallywith single wall uninsulated pipe is OK. WOW
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Please post pics when this job is complete.
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Yes please and try to do it before the fire
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This is awesome. :thumbup:
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Shewwww.... Lets not get all harsh on this subject.
I grew up in garages n shops that had old sun beam wood stoves or pot bellys sitting around. Waste oil, acetylene, and oxygen tanks sitting everywhere, but people had to do with what they had.
Although someone might not have a perfect situation in regard to specs, it's still there's and if they wanna risk it they can. This post almost got me going because I'm sooooooo tired of govt trying to tell everyone where they can poop and pee. But he wanted some opinions, he got em, it's his choice what to do with them.
Best of luck in whatever he does! :thumbup:
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I've never seem a barm with a wood floor around here... There all on dirt and a lot of folks have wood stoves in them to heat a stripping room for tobacco n such
Barns with floors in New England are quit common..But I do remember my great grandfathers wood shed/barn didnt have a floor in it..
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I've never seem a barm with a wood floor around here... There all on dirt and a lot of folks have wood stoves in them to heat a stripping room for tobacco n such
Barns with floors in New England are quit common..But I do remember my great grandfathers wood shed/barn didnt have a floor in it..
I was just discussing this with someone.... We'd never heard of a barn with a wood floor?!
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Scott perhaps you misunderstood the original post, maybe you should revisit it, We as reps for this industry should in my opinion be directing the new members to wood burners as safely as possible, You will never find a more anti government person without handcuffs on than me but common sense and safety should always be the first things on our minds and never the profit margin on the sale and install
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I dont see the big deal in all of this..I know probably half dozen people and seen by driving the miles.. That have a OWB or a wood boiler in a garage, barn that is attached to the dwelling house..In fact Aqua-Therm makes unsheltered wood boilers so they can go in a shop or a wood shed.. Ive seen my share of wood boilers that in basements that run the same as outdoor wood boilers..Like anything other wood burning device..You gotta keep the stack pipe/chimney or what ever its hooked up to clean!!!
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I've never seem a barm with a wood floor around here... There all on dirt and a lot of folks have wood stoves in them to heat a stripping room for tobacco n such
Barns with floors in New England are quit common..But I do remember my great grandfathers wood shed/barn didnt have a floor in it..
I was just discussing this with someone.... We'd never heard of a barn with a wood floor?!
Maybe its due to the harsh winters.. I dunno.. My old buddy parents barn has a wood floor in it..
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I dont see the big deal in all of this..I know probably half dozen people and seen by driving the miles.. That have a OWB or a wood boiler in a garage, barn that is attached to the dwelling house..In fact Aqua-Therm makes unsheltered wood boilers so they can go in a shop or a wood shed.. Ive seen my share of wood boilers that in basements that run the same as outdoor wood boilers..Like anything other wood burning device..You gotta keep the stack pipe/chimney or what ever its hooked up to clean!!!
Yea I saw it....
I agree for the most part Matty... However, I will not do the install in a barn or building just for liability issues, if they wanna sign a waiver then it's fine by me.
I've never seen barns with floors and stuff, most barns here, you could run an open flame in them and never have an issue as there ain't nothing there, just wood walls, a beam here and there and posts. But yea the single wall through a wall wasn't good.. I'll agree with that.
But keep in mind income from an area where barrel stoves are often found in homes lol
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I've never seem a barm with a wood floor around here... There all on dirt and a lot of folks have wood stoves in them to heat a stripping room for tobacco n such
Barns with floors in New England are quit common..But I do remember my great grandfathers wood shed/barn didnt have a floor in it..
I was just discussing this with someone.... We'd never heard of a barn with a wood floor?!
Maybe its due to the harsh winters.. I dunno.. My old buddy parents barn has a wood floor in it..
The real nice barns here might have a concrete floor, most feed barns here have concrete floors so u can scoop the poop
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I've never seem a barm with a wood floor around here... There all on dirt and a lot of folks have wood stoves in them to heat a stripping room for tobacco n such
Barns with floors in New England are quit common..But I do remember my great grandfathers wood shed/barn didnt have a floor in it..
I was just discussing this with someone.... We'd never heard of a barn with a wood floor?!
Maybe its due to the harsh winters.. I dunno.. My old buddy parents barn has a wood floor in it..
The real nice barns here might have a concrete floor, most feed barns here have concrete floors so u can scoop the poop
modern barns here have the concrete floors here too
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OK enough said, may be a cultural thing, up here a typical barn is different than there, around here a smoke pipe running horizontally out of a building is considered hacked, just sayin.
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a chimney should be as vertical as possable with as few bends as possable and preferably round. it should extend out the roof of the building at lest far enough that when measured horizontally from the center of the chimney and 2 feet lower than the top of the chiney it is at least 10 feet to the nearest obstruction (this includes the pitch of the roof) a chimney sticking out the side of a building will not work properly, it will back draft and likley smoke you out of the building. I can see where a dealer of these stoves should not promote putting them in a building for their own legal protection (they are advertised as and outdoor stove and likley have no certification for being inside) but what a person does with one if installing themselves is thier business (again, as far as i am concerned and that means nothing)
i have had a home made stove in a shed for over 12 years, to me they are safer than most indoor stoves, the fire is surrounded by water and if that were to boil dry there would still be an air gap between the fire box and the outside of the stove (water jacket) if the owner build a good heavy insulated chimney and builds the proper box on the roof, the chimney should not be close to any trusses and be well supporte don the roof and water tight
my biggest peeve with these stoves is that some home builders and manufactures alike use foam insulation that is very combustable. if had anything to say on their construction it would be to use rock wool or something that does not promote combustion
i can remember the old shed stoves made from 45 gallon drums taht glowed red hot when fired hard (they must have burnt a shed or two?) or the old franklin fireplace that would spit coals out the cracks around the door even when shut (many a linoleum floor had burn marks on them)
thats it...my rant on putting an outdoor stove , indoors
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THANK YOU
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OK enough said, may be a cultural thing, up here a typical barn is different than there, around here a smoke pipe running horizontally out of a building is considered hacked, just sayin.
Yea a lot f tobacco stripping rooms here have a pipe through the wall.... Similar to what he initially mentioned
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a chimney should be as vertical as possable with as few bends as possable and preferably round. it should extend out the roof of the building at lest far enough that when measured horizontally from the center of the chimney and 2 feet lower than the top of the chiney it is at least 10 feet to the nearest obstruction (this includes the pitch of the roof) a chimney sticking out the side of a building will not work properly, it will back draft and likley smoke you out of the building. I can see where a dealer of these stoves should not promote putting them in a building for their own legal protection (they are advertised as and outdoor stove and likley have no certification for being inside) but what a person does with one if installing themselves is thier business (again, as far as i am concerned and that means nothing)
i have had a home made stove in a shed for over 12 years, to me they are safer than most indoor stoves, the fire is surrounded by water and if that were to boil dry there would still be an air gap between the fire box and the outside of the stove (water jacket) if the owner build a good heavy insulated chimney and builds the proper box on the roof, the chimney should not be close to any trusses and be well supporte don the roof and water tight
my biggest peeve with these stoves is that some home builders and manufactures alike use foam insulation that is very combustable. if had anything to say on their construction it would be to use rock wool or something that does not promote combustion
i can remember the old shed stoves made from 45 gallon drums taht glowed red hot when fired hard (they must have burnt a shed or two?) or the old franklin fireplace that would spit coals out the cracks around the door even when shut (many a linoleum floor had burn marks on them)
thats it...my rant on putting an outdoor stove , indoors
I'm not saying im promoting it..... but you can recommend what's best and if they don't wanna hear it you can make arrangements like letting them set the stove and you do inside work!? All kinds of stuff, a waiver as well.
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Scott ,think about it, would you after rereading the post not suggest to your customer ( or in my case, insist ) that the job be done in a safe and professional manner, do you really want your name and reputation associated with that. For the record I would not have it and would refuse the sale.
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Scott ,think about it, would you after rereading the post not suggest to your customer ( or in my case, insist ) that the job be done in a safe and professional manner, do you really want your name and reputation associated with that. For the record I would not have it and would refuse the sale.
Slim, I'm not the law, I'm not going to directly insult another mans opinion. Besides, most barns here, and what id call a barn, would be like a 3000 dollar loss if it did burn lol... But if they were talking about barns on wood floors, that would be an issue.
I'm not going to refuse a sale because the customer tells me it's going into a barn or shed etc.. Although, depending on how it looks, I may refuse to take part in the install , or like I said, clear myself of legal obligation
Look at a lot of brands I carry tho, heatmaster g series are approved for indoor installation
Empyre elite series and pro series are both approved for indoor installation.. Sooooo, who am I to claim to know more than a UL testing company.
Keep in mind I'm from ky, we don't have the laws and codes n such like you'll find in the liberal lands of the NE
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Scott ,think about it, would you after rereading the post not suggest to your customer ( or in my case, insist ) that the job be done in a safe and professional manner, do you really want your name and reputation associated with that. For the record I would not have it and would refuse the sale.
Slim, I'm not the law, I'm not going to directly insult another mans opinion. Besides, most barns here, and what id call a barn, would be like a 3000 dollar loss if it did burn lol... But if they were talking about barns on wood floors, that would be an issue.
I'm not going to refuse a sale because the customer tells me it's going into a barn or shed etc.. Although, depending on how it looks, I may refuse to take part in the install , or like I said, clear myself of legal obligation
Look at a lot of brands I carry tho, heatmaster g series are approved for indoor installation
Empyre elite series and pro series are both approved for indoor installation.. Sooooo, who am I to claim to know more than a UL testing company.
Keep in mind I'm from ky, we don't have the laws and codes n such like you'll find in the liberal lands of the NE
New Hampshire doesn't have the laws and codes either Like Maine or Mass, or VT does..
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I dont see the big deal in all of this..I know probably half dozen people and seen by driving the miles.. That have a OWB or a wood boiler in a garage, barn that is attached to the dwelling house..In fact Aqua-Therm makes unsheltered wood boilers so they can go in a shop or a wood shed.. Ive seen my share of wood boilers that in basements that run the same as outdoor wood boilers..Like anything other wood burning device..You gotta keep the stack pipe/chimney or what ever its hooked up to clean!!!
Yea I saw it....
I agree for the most part Matty... However, I will not do the install in a barn or building just for liability issues, if they wanna sign a waiver then it's fine by me.
I've never seen barns with floors and stuff, most barns here, you could run an open flame in them and never have an issue as there ain't nothing there, just wood walls, a beam here and there and posts. But yea the single wall through a wall wasn't good.. I'll agree with that.
But keep in mind income from an area where barrel stoves are often found in homes lol
I get that Scott for liability reasons..Course its out of your control after you done a install..(like person built a shed with it in it..
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Yea there is only so much you can do.... Kinda hard to tell a man who's heated his home with a glowing red pot belly for 40 years that an outdoor wood boiler in a shed is a dangerous lol
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No insult intended, just common sense when dealing with people not aware of the potential dangers, as far as liability, I'm not concerned because I will not have anything to do with a sale or install of a product that may cost a life or at the least further deminish the reputation of the industry by not at least educating the buyer of the danger. Common Sense.
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Whats with the LOL, I personnally find nothing about this conversation in any way funny, maybe I'm just tired and if so I apoligize but people do read this and because of this thread and the statements made here some may think that it is OK to install in this manner, I find nothing funny about it!
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Sooo... I shouldn't sell my outdoor wood furnaces that are approved for both indoor and outdoor installation?
What's your thoughts on regular wood stoves in a home?? Should I not sell those either?! Those are far more dangerous to life than a wood stove in a shed or barn where no one lives?!
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Slim, you keep ignoring the part about a good portion of my stoves are approved for indoor and outdoor installation? But I'm kinda just waiting for your response to regular indoor wood stoves n such!?
I don't think anyone in there right mind could say an owb in a barn is more dangerous than a regular wood burner or even electric furnace in a home!?
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YOU may do as you wish, I will do as my concience guides me, I WILL refuse any sales that I consider unsafe and not up to common sense standards of the industry, Indoor stoves have rules of installation as well, National fire protection codes define these pretty well and even when I choose not to agree with them I will make the homeowner aware of the hazard and let them make the decision with knowledge on thier side. What do you think will happen if the waste oil barrel / tank he has stored in the building catches on fire because of carelesness. The whole problem is avoided by using common sense and in my opinion it is the job of the industry to teach common sense here.
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Slim, you keep ignoring the part about a good portion of my stoves are approved for indoor and outdoor installation? But I'm kinda just waiting for your response to regular indoor wood stoves n such!?
I don't think anyone in there right mind could say an owb in a barn is more dangerous than a regular wood burner or even electric furnace in a home!?
I would have to agree on your last part of the post
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I'm not ignoring anything as our units are approved for inside install as well, the install in question does not even come close to being up to code, see here in this socialist state we must not only hold a solid fuel license that takes 4 years to achieve under a licensed master but we also must abide by certain codes for fire safety, I would not want to try and sleep at night thinking that somebody lost a building or God forbid a life because I did not take the time to explain the dangers to a newbe
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YOU may do as you wish, I will do as my concience guides me, I WILL refuse any sales that I consider unsafe and not up to common sense standards of the industry, Indoor stoves have rules of installation as well, National fire protection codes define these pretty well and even when I choose not to agree with them I will make the homeowner aware of the hazard and let them make the decision with knowledge on thier side. What do you think will happen if the waste oil barrel / tank he has stored in the building catches on fire because of carelesness. The whole problem is avoided by using common sense and in my opinion it is the job of the industry to teach common sense here.
Would it be safe to say you think anyone who burns wood inside a dwelling is a fool!?
Not trying to be smart, but it seems that's your position...
Regardless of codes, I'm really curious as to which you would consider more dangerous!? An old king wood stove sitting in the corner of a home where a family lives, or an outdoor wood boiler in a barn?!
I think an owb is safer than a fuel oil furnace, propane furnace, wood stove, electric furnace, you name it
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Well if the law here was stated that I could not install in a shed or barn I wouldn't, but im not going to pretend to be the popo and tell them they can't do what they want, because its what there gonna do anyway
But im not going to tell someone that he can't do what he wants with it, it's his barn, his stove, his everything... I have no right to tell another man he can't do as he chooses... It's just not in my nature to put myself above someone
Once again, not stating I am promoting this, just saying that in regards to danger, I'd feel worse about any kind of electric heater or indoor stove than a boiler in a barn.
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I appreciate all the concerns, this is my first year with my fires OWB.
I have already pulled the pipe and cut the hole in the roof. I just need a couple 45's to get clearance away from a 2x6.
I'm still concerned about sealing the stack to the corrugated roof tin.
Brian
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I appreciate all the concerns, this is my first year with my fires OWB.
I have already pulled the pipe and cut the hole in the roof. I just need a couple 45's to get clearance away from a 2x6.
I'm still concerned about sealing the stack to the corrugated roof tin.
Brian
That's not hard to do, there is simple flashing that slides or wraps around the pipe with a flexible rubber seal
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We get it safety is a lot to do with personal opinion and common sense. Still trying to figure out if the 8' piece of uninsulated schedule 40 steel pipe on top of a natures comfort boiler is acceptable running through a metal roof. Recently acquired a piece of schedule 10 stainless that I was going to adapt to boiler pipe or do I need the double or triple wall stainless pipe?
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Uninsulated that length will be a pain in the neck, the exhaust will cool to quickly and cause major creosote
I'd adapt over to double wall stainless steel
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Dektite makes a high temp silicone boot not sure if it will handle the high temps of an uninsulated smoke stack.
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Had quite a lot of creosote build up last year but tried to stay on top of it didn't think the uninsulated part would be a problem with the forced draft but learning otherwise
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YOU may do as you wish, I will do as my concience guides me, I WILL refuse any sales that I consider unsafe and not up to common sense standards of the industry, Indoor stoves have rules of installation as well, National fire protection codes define these pretty well and even when I choose not to agree with them I will make the homeowner aware of the hazard and let them make the decision with knowledge on thier side. What do you think will happen if the waste oil barrel / tank he has stored in the building catches on fire because of carelesness. The whole problem is avoided by using common sense and in my opinion it is the job of the industry to teach common sense here.
Would it be safe to say you think anyone who burns wood inside a dwelling is a fool!? NO but it should be done right in either indoor or outdoor and the public is sometimes not educated as we should be of the potential dangers, I have made my point and it is now time for a little rest, I will now say goodnight now, thanks for the debate.
Not trying to be smart, but it seems that's your position...
Regardless of codes, I'm really curious as to which you would consider more dangerous!? An old king wood stove sitting in the corner of a home where a family lives, or an outdoor wood boiler in a barn?!
I think an owb is safer than a fuel oil furnace, propane furnace, wood stove, electric furnace, you name it
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WOW I don't know what happened with that last post, I'm tired and going to bed, No on the indoor question, just teach safety indoor or outdoor, we just in March had a local guy get 3rd degree burns over 90% of his body because he tried to light his OWB with a can of gas, he will be in Boston living in a tent for at least a year. You can't fix stupid but that does not mean you shouldn"t try.
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WOW I don't know what happened with that last post, I'm tired and going to bed, No on the indoor question, just teach safety indoor or outdoor, we just in March had a local guy get 3rd degree burns over 90% of his body because he tried to light his OWB with a can of gas, he will be in Boston living in a tent for at least a year. You can't fix stupid but that does not mean you shouldn"t try.
we all do have the obligation to tell folks how there supposed to be installed.. and we all do I assume, but I feel there is little we can do in a lot of situations
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I appreciate all the concerns, this is my first year with my fires OWB.
I have already pulled the pipe and cut the hole in the roof. I just need a couple 45's to get clearance away from a 2x6.
I'm still concerned about sealing the stack to the corrugated roof tin.
Brian
That's not hard to do, there is simple flashing that slides or wraps around the pipe with a flexible rubber seal
You mean this isn't good enough? (http://sofarfromheavendotcom.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/roof-and-chimney-repairs-5.jpg)
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Lord help lol
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Companies get UL ratings for a reason. If a furnace is designed for indoor use then have at it. Personally the beauty of a outdoor furnace is the fact that I do not need dry wood, split wood, small wood ect. I wouldn't want my furnace in a building because it would be more inconvenient. Then again I don't have wood neatly stacked in a wood shed, at best I have a backup pile of pine for the days I don't have something on the truck when I come home.
We as dealers do need to promote safe and efficient use of these furnaces. That being said I'm with Scott, if a guy wants to put a furnace in a barn I will sell it if he comes and picks it up and I'm not involved in the install. I always tell them when it burns down come back and I will sell them one to put outside.
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WillieG you are right on , they are now making a new insolation that is made from rock, rockwool to be precise, actually it's not only fire proof but has fantastic sound deadening properties. After reading all the post, if he wants it inside, fine by me. All I was trying to say is I am more worried about dry wood than cold and snow while I put a few logs in the stove . Anyway, good luck, I am sure everything will work out fine.
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WOW......this post blew up overnight!!
I know I'm on a OWB site but I have an indoor boiler. I wouldn't have it any other way.
My setup is in a post and beam building with metal siding. It has dirt floors and was designed
to hold my previous stove along with wood. The stove clears the closest walls by 3' at a minimum and I've scene
this same install all my life. I know of no fires because the person installing the stove explained
all aspects of safety. Keep combustibles away from the front and back of stove.
The first thing taught is not using GAS to light an OWB!!!!
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Exactly, read the post from the beginning
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I'll get a picture up of what I'm doing soon.
Now I just picked up that I really need insulated pipe???
the 6" steel pipi coming out of my Earth OWB is 18" from the bottom of the corrugated roof. I need to offest this about 6" toward the down slope to gain clearance from a 2x6 beam. I have a 2/12 pitch so I need 4' from the roof penetration to clear the ridge.
would you use insulated pipe for this 4 ft, or should I insulate all the way down to the enclosure of the OWB?
Brian
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There are two problems with using uninsulated pipe. First you will have more creosote buildup in the pipe due to the smoke cooling quickly. This will require more regular cleaning unless you want a chimney fire. Second you run the risk of having the pipe get hot enough to catch your roof on fire. If you do run a single wall pipe be sure and keep it away from anything combustible.
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I wouldn't use single wall regarless on it... You can't run ingle wall more than a couple foot on a stove without issue
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Check out this "high efficiency" wood furnace installed in the middle of this place...
watch it all, it's good lol
#485 daves farm , redneck high efficiency wood stove [Davidsfarm] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWQbvIPcZUA#)
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Companies get UL ratings for a reason. If a furnace is designed for indoor use then have at it. Personally the beauty of a outdoor furnace is the fact that I do not need dry wood, split wood, small wood ect. I wouldn't want my furnace in a building because it would be more inconvenient. Then again I don't have wood neatly stacked in a wood shed, at best I have a backup pile of pine for the days I don't have something on the truck when I come home.
We as dealers do need to promote safe and efficient use of these furnaces. That being said I'm with Scott, if a guy wants to put a furnace in a barn I will sell it if he comes and picks it up and I'm not involved in the install. I always tell them when it burns down come back and I will sell them one to put outside.
Yoder are you sure you ain't a hardy dealer? lol
The hardy folks here always have absolutely no wood around there stove except for the winter months. Most of my customers have wood storage, I don't see why or how it seems so black and white but it is... Kinda funny
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Watch out he's got a patent and they wont be $5.00 to build forever.
"Right up there with the most efficent wood stoves on the market!!"
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Up here in Northern Maine there are still many barns with wood floors, I own one of them. It was easier on the horses feet and to clean before the days of rubber stall mats and concrete. Some people still build them that way they are usually made from Tamarac or Hemlock. As far as a metal stack I always use insulated pipes inside and through the walls till outside. Had a single walled pipe rot, collapse and fill the house with smoke once and that was enough of a lesson learned. If you are going to skimp at least use insulated through the walls and roof and put up some tin shields inside to keep the heat away should it get real hot. Those stoves and buildings are not cheap to replace.
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I've tried to get the Hardy dealership for this area but wasn't successful. But heck, I'm out on the farm almost every day with all kinds of brush and trees that need to be cleaned up. Why not just burn as I go?
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I've tried to get the Hardy dealership for this area but wasn't successful. But heck, I'm out on the farm almost every day with all kinds of brush and trees that need to be cleaned up. Why not just burn as I go?
I guess it's ok.. I just like the idea of maximizing everything.. If I burned a big piece of oak that wasn't dried out for maximum benefit I'd likely lose sleep lol
I hate waste
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WOW I don't know what happened with that last post, I'm tired and going to bed, No on the indoor question, just teach safety indoor or outdoor, we just in March had a local guy get 3rd degree burns over 90% of his body because he tried to light his OWB with a can of gas, he will be in Boston living in a tent for at least a year. You can't fix stupid but that does not mean you shouldn"t try.
Pretty sure Scott has experience with customers anxiously lighting their new stoves with Gas - LOL - I'm still cringing about the ash pan to the shins - YEOW !!! :bash:
Love that Video BTW - He said Hotdog - er, HOT DOG - Bahahahja. ;D
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Don't remind me lol
It seems like yesterday I was laying there watching that mushroom cloud to higher than the power lines lol
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OP: Did you get this project done?
Go here for the roof boot - will be cheaper here than buying one in town (although your local lumber yard / plumbing supply house will have something similar):
http://www.pipebootexpress.com/square-base-flashing-109.html (http://www.pipebootexpress.com/square-base-flashing-109.html)
You need item # MBAMB0060
I found Selkirk double-walled stainless pipe at my local farm store cheaper than anywhere online, so I'd check there first if you have one close (Tractor Supply, Rural King, Buchheit's, etc.). If I were you, I'd run it from the stove connection all the way out - no creosote or overheating issues.
I see no problems with an install like you describe, if you use the right stuff to do it. Get it done and get us some pics!!
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I got my lines all terminated at the furnace, electrical done. I need to mount the heat exchangers.
I had to order the 45's for the stack but I'm getting there.
I did split some sycamore today. I hate this stuff.
Brian
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Thank you
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OP: Did you get this project done?
Go here for the roof boot - will be cheaper here than buying one in town (although your local lumber yard / plumbing supply house will have something similar):
http://www.pipebootexpress.com/square-base-flashing-109.html (http://www.pipebootexpress.com/square-base-flashing-109.html)
You need item # MBAMB0060
arent you concerned about it being rubber?i allways assumed you needed a metal flashing boot.
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well after doing web based search found they do make a high temp silicone roof boot for just such a purpose...go figure..
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I haven't bought the boot/flashing yet. It's on my to do list.
Brian
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arent you concerned about it being rubber?i allways assumed you needed a metal flashing boot.
Nope. If he uses double-wall pipe, a standard rubber boot will be fine. If ordering off the net I'd go ahead and order a high-temp version, but if I went to town to buy one and all they had was a regular rubber boot, I wouldn't be afraid to use it.
If he uses single-wall pipe, then yeah he'll need a metal flashing.