Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Central Boiler => Topic started by: Rutnik on November 04, 2013, 10:31:19 AM
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2 years in a row....
I start burning for the year and like clock-work my E-Classic 2400 operates for about a week and then just starts blowing fuses. Last year they replaced the firestar control unit. This year I tried doing some troubleshooting first.
1. I disconnected all the soleniods to see if it would power-up without blowing the fuse and it worked.
2. I then started connecting soleniods one at a time to see if one was bad and sure enough the bottom right popped the fuse.
3. I had a spare soleniod (bought one "just in case") and replace what I thought was a bad soleniod.
4. As soon as I powered it up..... blown fuse again.
Does anyone have any thoughts? Is there another relay or something? Tonight I am going to put the spare soleniod in another spot to see if maybe my spare is also bad, other than that I guess I have to call the dealer which is something I would rather not do. Forgot to mention this is only my 3rd season with it and the last 2 haven't started out too well......
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Where are you at, one of the most honest and reputable dealers for CB is about 1 hour from my home, he is a direct competitor of mine but I like him. His name is Rick Young AKA farmer for hire.
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Northern NJ
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I'm sure he would take a call, would you like his #
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You may want to have your control panel checked, as you could be sending the wrong voltage to your solenoids. Had the same problem and Central Boiler replaced my panel, a simple fix.
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I switched the soleniods around last night and they all seemed to work. When I put one of the good ones on the bottom right it started humming pretty loud. I think it may be the firestar control panel like trailmaster said. They replaced it last year when the problem happened, but 2 control panels in 2 years????
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I had to replace my controller twice and a few solenoids. The control kept taking out the high secondary solenoid. To get by I just unhooked the solenoid. It would burn ok with out it. Burns better with it.
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Just got off the phone with the dealer. He said controller is BAD :bash:. Last night I went down and had the power on the controller "off" BUT it was still pulling power to the high secondary soleniod (Sam-tip sounds like the same thing). With the power off the soleniod was reading 95-110 and pulling the cap for the tube up and just humming and chattering. I turned the power on and it stayed running but as soon as I opened the furnace door and it would call for the fan to kick on and the fuse would blow and I was done. The dealer said the controller is bad and CB is now providing controllers with a "surge protector" built into them. I asked why and he said they found out with "spikes" in power supply that is cooks the controllers. Another great start to the season. Thanks for everyones help and I am sure I will be visiting this site again!
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a prime example to keep things simple....these are wood burners not nuclear reactors. aquastat and soleniod is all i have in mine.
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Amen Chilly!
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Just got off the phone with the dealer. He said controller is BAD :bash:. Last night I went down and had the power on the controller "off" BUT it was still pulling power to the high secondary soleniod (Sam-tip sounds like the same thing). With the power off the soleniod was reading 95-110 and pulling the cap for the tube up and just humming and chattering. I turned the power on and it stayed running but as soon as I opened the furnace door and it would call for the fan to kick on and the fuse would blow and I was done. The dealer said the controller is bad and CB is now providing controllers with a "surge protector" built into them. I asked why and he said they found out with "spikes" in power supply that is cooks the controllers. Another great start to the season. Thanks for everyones help and I am sure I will be visiting this site again!
Sounds just like what happened to me. I was also getting 120 volt DC to the solenoid when off. BAD!
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A trick I did in a pinch to open the solenoid/metal disk, without power(disconnected the power to solenoid), was to take a pencil and put it between the 2" tube and the round metal disk. This allowed air flow to continue, keeping the furnace running, until I got a new set of solenoids that had gone bad and kept blowing fuses. Now I have like 10 fuses on hand, cuz when u start blowing fuses, u sure want to have some spares around. Hope I explained this well enough….