Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Hardy => Topic started by: hondaracer2oo4 on November 11, 2013, 07:07:40 PM
-
I have never measured my stack temps before. Tonight I thought that I would take a look at see what they were at. I loaded about 3 hours ago and measured when it had been blowing combustion air for a few minutes to pick the temp back up to 185. It was currently at 177 and climbing. The bottom of the stack showed 250* or so while the top was at about *215 with my rain cap being 300*. I measured the top of the firebox which was about 415*. I have added a piece of 8 inch flue which drops into the firebox past the horizontal pipes up top that the flame buster use to sit on. I have the flame buster currently hanging from the flue pipe with about a 1 inch gap so that flames and gasses can't just shoot up the flue, they have to go to the top of the firebox and then make there way back down. What are other people getting for stack temps?
-
Haven't checked mine but I will.
-
Checked again this morning when I was loading. Stove was firing with a good bed of coals on the bottom. Temps at the top of the firebox were 700* plus. My flue pipe was 350* or so. I would really like to find out what other people are getting since I added that extra 10 inches of flue pipe down into the firebox to trap the heat up top and force the smoke and heat to come back down before heading out of the flue.
-
I don't know how ur measuring the exhaust temps
But when we measure stack temps were measuring the air temp not stack itself. Every hardy I've ever checked has been well over 600 and higher especially when there under full load and there is 2-3 foot flames shooting out the stack
-
Scott,
I measured the single wall pipe of the flue coming out as well as the temp of the underside of the rain cap which is exposed to the full temp of the flue gasses. I would think that the underside of the rain cap that is exposed to the flue gasses would be the same temp as the gasses leaving. It measured at about 380*. I think that my addition of the flue pipe down into the burn chamber has helped significantly with reducing my stack temps since it now traps the heat at the top of the firebox, forcing the gasses back down into the box before they exit the flue. Hoping to get some confirmation from some other Hardy owners here that have only the 'Flame buster' installed.
-
Hey Guys. I've not measured my temps but am curious about the monster flame from other Hardy units. I've used mine for a year and have yet to see any kind of flame out the top. Are there models out there that do not have the plate on the top of the underside? Don't mean to change the topic here just curious...
-
Brad,
I have once or twice(when I only had the 'flame buster' installed) ever saw any flame out of the top. It was no more than 8 inches or so and wasn't really a flame but more of an orange glow. Not sure if scottm has seen some that haven't had the flamebuster in them but I could see if thats the case that they could really shoot a flame since it is a straight shot out of the top in that case.
-
When I had a H2 I had flames shoot out a lot. Now that we have h4 going into the second winter I have yet to see flames shooting out of the stack.
-
Never seen the inside of a H2. Is it built any differently or just a smaller firebox?
-
hondaracer,
How did you get the flue pipe down in the stove? Do you have any pictures you could share? I have three pieces of flue pipe so I could try this if I knew what you were doing.
-
Yea I've seen flames coming out in the range of 30-36" high. One down the road from me looks like that quite often
The baffle does help eliminate this but I have seen it on them as well, just not as severe
Dropping the flu deeper should help some indeed
-
I will try and take some pics tomorrow. What I did was take out the flame buster. Take a piece of 8 inch black single wall flue pipe, cut it off so that it dropped 2 inches below the level of the two bars that the flame buster sits on. Then I took tin snips and cut 1 inch cuts down all the way around one end of the flue pipe and bent them inward so that they would fit into the flue opening. I think the flue opening is something like 7 3/4". I used an old piece that had the seams locked togeather for a long time. If you used a new piece you could try not locking the seam since they seem to have a lot of outward spring before you lock the seams. I then drilled a 1/2" hole through the flue just above those bars for the flame buster. I slid a 1/2" threaded rod all the way through which rests on the bars and keeps the flue pipe up. Then I took some 2 pieces of 9 gauge wire, made a hook on one end, drilled two holes through the flame buster fed the other end of the wire through the holes and bent an L to keep the flame buster from coming off of the wire, then hung it off of the hooks I bent in the wire on the threaded rod. I left a two inch gap between the bottom of the flue pipe and flame buster.
-
Never seen the inside of a H2. Is it built any differently or just a smaller firebox?
It looks the same to me just bigger, and has the baffle below the flue, that my H2 didn't have. After a year my flue pipe has not turned blue like the H2 did right after we got it.
-
Here is a pic of the extended flue.
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
-
Hey Guys. I've not measured my temps but am curious about the monster flame from other Hardy units. I've used mine for a year and have yet to see any kind of flame out the top. Are there models out there that do not have the plate on the top of the underside? Don't mean to change the topic here just curious...
I have a fairly old H2 and as long as there is good seasoned wood in it, it shoots flames out the top pretty much whenever it cycles. The firebox is literally just a box with a hole in the top going straight outside through the stack. There is no form of blockage at all. Not the most efficient thing in the world is suppose but being that i have a small house and the run is fairly short it works well for me. normal winter days require max of half load in morning and half load in evening.
-
I saw my H2 smoke like that one time, we had a yard full of hickory nuts and I got the bright idea to dump a few 5 gallon buckets of them in the furnace....
-
JCC, there is a Hardy dealer that sells a 6 inch auger bit to go in the flue of the h2. He claims in greatly improves efficiency. I think he charge $100 for it? You could get this http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-diameter-auger-bit-95973.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-diameter-auger-bit-95973.html) . Half the price and should work just fine. Might help you out a lot.
-
Oh come on a hundred bucks! buy it from the guy that designed it, isnt that what it's all about?
-
Had a new flame buster made for mine at a local metal fab shop. He made it fro 1/8 in thick 316 grade stainless and said it should never burn out. The old one was burnt out in the middle and I really didn't think the stove even had one till I got to cleaning on it(used stove) before the install.
-
JCC, there is a Hardy dealer that sells a 6 inch auger bit to go in the flue of the h2. He claims in greatly improves efficiency. I think he charge $100 for it? You could get this http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-diameter-auger-bit-95973.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-diameter-auger-bit-95973.html) . Half the price and should work just fine. Might help you out a lot.
Yeah i have seen that guys youtube video and heard about them in previous posts. i have been meaning to get me one, but it just hasn't made it up my priority list yet since i already don't burn that much wood and its simple just to cut more wood haha. maybe this summer : )
-
[quote Take a piece of 8 inch black single wall flue pipe, cut it off so that it dropped 2 inches below the level of the two bars that the flame buster sits on. Then I took tin snips and cut 1 inch cuts down all the way around one end of the flue pipe and bent them inward so that they would fit into the flue opening. I think the flue opening is something like 7 3/4". I used an old piece that had the seams locked togeather for a long time. If you used a new piece you could try not locking the seam since they seem to have a lot of outward spring before you lock the seams.
[/quote]
It looks like you put the extended piece in from the bottom. Is that correct? How much of a pain in the a$$ was that to do?
-
Yes I did put it in from the bottom. It was quite a pain to do because of the fact of having to play with the bent tabs until they fit right. Probably took me 30 minutes of fussing with it to get it to slip in. The rest was easy. Once it was up I marked with a sharpy the top of the bars for the flame buster, pulled it out and drilled it. Reinstalled and slipped the threaded rod through to hold it in place.
-
I like the idea. How long of a piece did you wind up using?