Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: brandis72 on November 28, 2013, 04:57:25 PM
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I have a large stove one side is furnishing house, works great, the other supply and return line I have a separate taco 007-f5 pump on it 1/25 horse power, I am wanting to supply 3 small buildings (with their own blowers) I have one hooked up and building is very nice. When I put in the main line I put a tee in on both lines, up until this point I have only been heating one building. I hooked the second one up today and I am not getting water circulation through the line to the new building. The original one is still working fine, pump working, line is clear to stove I back washed water from new building location (via a hose forcing into line). Wondering if I need a bigger pump to circulate through the tee's ? maybe having the tee's won't work to circulate? any suggestions?
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Got to be hooked in one long line, no T's . Water will take the path of least resistance.
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you have what you have ...you can make this work but it will require a larger pump and then controling flow with valves at each building. you will need to calculate the total flow to all buildings and then calculate a pump that could deliver that flow to the farthest building ( i think this would work)
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I doubt youll ever make it work just installing t's like that, water will just take the path of least resistance
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with help from another member, I got water flowing at both units with the Tee's install and they work great, (I had a lot of air in the line as well)so the theory of not having tee's is incorrect, although a bigger pump will be needed to finish with the third heater Tee's and splices in the line do work, the line that was not the easy line has really good water flow, I had to do a restriction on the line going to heater 1 and drop lines to the floor to get water flowing in heater 2 but once water was flowing I was able to move heater and lines back to ceiling where I originally wanted it mounted. Thanks for the great advise
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I don't think "incorrect" is the right word. It may have worked in your case. And by your own admission, you had to add a restriction to force the flow through the tee. I'm positive your GPM down each line is not the same. Open air systems do not behave the same as standard plumbing principles. If you were to put a "TEE" on your return line, you wouldn't have the same results. I'm glad yours worked out, but it is not the widely understood way to do it. Trust me, I learned the hard way. Glad you're getting heat!
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I should have typed a few minutes longer I guess. It will work, however it might also stop working at any minute due to air bubble in one of the lines or maybe at a 90 or maybe the exchanger/ plate gets a little corroded etc. It still comes down to the path of least resistance, if you do lose flow in one building while you are not home you might have a little freezing problem.
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Good to know, we keep a watch on the heaters all the time. I don't know if lines would of worked with out a valve restriction at B1 or not as I installed those when we were trouble shooting the issue. What would be the suggestion to keep air bubbles out? Mind you I'm new to the stove not water lines, I learned alot quickly when we installed the stove, we tried to get seller/dealer to go ahead and install it (he offered that service) after I had a compound fracture to my Ankle. Long story short they didnt do it so we had to and learned some hard lessons so when I had further issues this yr I found tho s forum.