Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: rjohnson on December 07, 2013, 11:09:57 PM
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hey guys
I am new to this forum and have a few questions. I have a heatmaster mf5000 and am having some troubles with it. I ve been battling it for a couple weeks. First I was getting error e2 and would have to reset controller to keep it running. Then it seemed to get a little better for a few days. Now It doesn't want to keep up. Temp is set to 170 with a 10 deg. diference. I tried 180 with a fifteen difference and now stove doesn't seem to keep up. I can fill it and get the temp up to 170[ I changed it back as this seemed to work good last year] but by morning or evening it falls to around 90-110. There is usually a couple chunks of wood still burning just not getting enough heat. I never used to have to split the wood first but I did split some and it seemed to help some. I am burning oak cull logs from last year. Any idea what is going on or what I can do different? Thanks for the help
Ross
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First of all, WELCOME! Are you using more wood than last year? I would start by checking heat loss in the pipe if you are. If that is not it then it is probably an air problem, solenoid not opening or blocked air tube.
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about the same amount of wood, maybe a little more. we are in a cold spell right now in Wisconsin. So extra consumption is expected. How would I check for heat loss in the pipe? I have noticed that the gasket around chimney on the roof is decaying and in rough shape. Thanks for the help
Ross
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Just curious, when your stove is calling for heat, is the fan coming on, if so, can you check to make sure the solenoid is opening the damper at the back
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yes fan comes on and solenoid opens up I am gonna check for a blockage in air line
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Pull out the ash pan and shine a light in to see if the air tube is blocked. If you don't empty the ashes when you should they can spill over into the air duct that comes down from the fan. If the wood burns much hotter immediately after you open the door you may have a blockage in the exhaust. If this is the case check the smoke bypass in the top of the firebox and the chimney to be sure there is nothing blocking the smoke. Its normal for the silicone to come off around the chimney and it will have no affect on how the furnace operates.
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DAP makes high temp silicones that can be used to replace the one falling off your stove, the one I use is rated to 600 degrees.
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I pulled ash pan and can see air tube, looks to be clear. There is a few ashes next to it but top 3/4 was clear. Bypass looks to be clear as well but it is hard to see up there, so not for sure. nothing obvious tho. I am burnibg some dry 2x4s with the oak and it is working better but it doesn't seem to want to burn the oak. I am still not sure what is going on. Could the controller be messed up. It was giving me an error of E2.
thanks again
Ross
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Ross, Got this from the Heatmaster web site
E1 - Appears when either the up or down key is
pressed when not in the programming mode.
To correct: If the E1 message appears even when no
keys are being pressed replace the control.
E2 - Appears if the control settings are not properly stored
in memory.
To correct: Re-set all settings. If the display continues
to show E2, replace the control.
EP - Appears when the probe is open, shorted, or sensing
a temperature that is out of range
To correct: Check to see if the sensed temperature is
out of range. If not, check for probe damage by com
paring it to a known ambient temperature between
–30°F and 220°F. Replace the control if necessary.
EE - Appears if the EEPROM data has been corrupted.
To correct: This condition can not be field repaired.
Replace the controller.
Hope you just need to reset and not replace.
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Crow, how do you like your P+M ?
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Rjohnson, I'm sorry i didn't even notice that it was giving you an error code. You will have to replace the ranco thermostat, not very hard to do at all.
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Slim - PM sent.
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C'mon Crow, we all want to hear the answer.
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Did not think I should post about my P&M in the HeatMaster thread.
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Brush your chimney. I have had the same kind of issue here and there.
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Mr. Crow do you have a really good coal bed in the bottom of your stove. If not try this! Turn the stove off, let the temp get way down say around 100 deg. then build a big honkin fire with plenty of wood inside the stove with the ash drawer opened slightly. When the fire gets to roaring turn it back on with the temp set a 170 deg. close the ash drawer and the fire box door let it run until it kicks off. Wa-law........a great big glowing ash bed! That's what fixed mine. If it continues to go out consult your dealer or someone smarter than me on this forum. :D