Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Central Boiler => Topic started by: pwdiver on December 12, 2013, 04:29:51 AM
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I know Ive mentioned this before in another post somewhere but my hot water return line to the boiler was cool this morning Ive checked inline strainer and found no pluggeg there, I had to shut off the water going to my heat exchager to force as much as I could the the plate exchager this worked i guess Im going to try to reverse the line's going to the plate exchager and see if this helps. :'(
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Maybe plugged up and only letting a small amount of gpm through causing all of the heat to have been extracted from the water by the time it makes it out the other side?
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What calculation would you use to size a new hot water plate exchanger mine is fouled and I think Im going to get another so I can just change the current one out and get it soaking in white vinegar per my dealer my current exchanger is 5inx13in 1in thick with 1in water in and water out, I dont know if going to a 20 plate or 30 plate is better. :-\
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I say 30 plate, bigger the better, I have a 40 plate and wish I had a 60
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A 20 plate is definitely all that's needed for hot water. When you get into plate exchangers for your boilers and pressurized heating systems, that's when you get into 50 or 60 plate exchangers. A 20 plate is all that's needed for domestic water.
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Thanks for the info i will be getting a spare plate exchanger soon :thumbup:
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It sounds like you have a 10 plate now. 20 is the minimum that should be used in series in a primary loop.
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It sounds like you have a 10 plate now. 20 is the minimum that should be used in series in a primary loop.
Would a thirty offer more flow with the same fitting sizes as a 20 plate?
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Yes, but it isn't necessary. I believe the 20 plate is enough not to cause restrictions. More plates are a waste of BTUs. You'll get your water temp much higher than is necessary and just cool it back down with a mixing valve. A 20 plate gets my temp up to 130 or so. That's all you need.
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Yes, but it isn't necessary. I believe the 20 plate is enough not to cause restrictions. More plates are a waste of BTUs. You'll get your water temp much higher than is necessary and just cool it back down with a mixing valve. A 20 plate gets my temp up to 130 or so. That's all you need.
Good to know, but I was referring more to restricting flow from the OWB. Or if it came with say 1 1/4 fittings for the OWB, it will flow as much as 1 1/4 pipe regardless of the number of plates?
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I'm not positive, but I think the plates are the restriction. I believe a 20 plate with 1" fittings well have the same restriction as a 20 plate with 1-1/4" fittings.
Is that what you mean?
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I'm not positive, but I think the plates are the restriction. I believe a 20 plate with 1" fittings well have the same restriction as a 20 plate with 1-1/4" fittings.
Is that what you mean?
yup.
I was just wondering what the minimum number of plates that could be used with 1 1/4" pex or 1" pex-al-pex and not add considerably to the total head in the system on the boiler side.
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I measured mine the other day its 5x13x1in thick I thought it had 1in fittings but its 3/4 fitting's I remembered after seeing the red Pex that I had to reduce it to make it fit. My main run from and back to the boiler is 1in as this is what size my main heating coil take's, I cant complain but so much Ive been running boiler constant since Feb of 2009 because I heat my hot water in the summer months also. :thumbup:
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I have found several Plate exchangers on ebay a 20 plate for 130.00 or a 30 plate for 150.00 :thumbup:
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Im getting ready to install my 30 plate exchanger do you think i would give up much heating value to leave the 3/4 in lines I currently have or up it to 1in I currently have it reduced to 3/4 because that is what size the current fittings are on the old exchanger :-[
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My wife sure liked the new plate exchanger this morning that was some hot ass water :thumbup: