Outdoor Wood Furnace Info

Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => Central Boiler => Topic started by: capitalpyro on January 01, 2014, 06:03:45 AM

Title: 5036 Damper Sticking Open
Post by: capitalpyro on January 01, 2014, 06:03:45 AM

Hello,

Although this is my first post I have been reading here for a very long time. I can usually find the answers I am looking for but I need the voices of experience to point me in the right direction.

I have a 5036 that works great but on occasion the damper door sticks open after the power to the solenoid is switched off. I have cleaned the linkages and solenoid thoroughly, sprayed with WD40 and this still happens on occasion. I tried a lithium lubricant but it hasn't solved the problem.

So, I have a few questions -

• I have read on this forum that many people don't really like using WD40 (I agree) but I haven't seen any real recommendations/substitutions. Some say gun oil ..... I would like to hear what people have used successfully and would recommend.
• I have also read where some people have added weight to the damper door by adding some large nuts or other objects. While I don't typically like altering the manufactures design on anything, I would like to know if anyone is doing this and if they have had problems with solenoids going bad prematurely or if this is a good idea or bad.
• Is there anything I am missing concerning the door sticking?

While I appreciate any help, I am only interested in advice from people who have actual experience with these issues.

Thanks in advance and thanks for providing this great forum that contains a wealth of information.

Title: Re: 5036 Damper Sticking Open
Post by: pwdiver on January 01, 2014, 06:23:14 AM

I had this happen to me about a month ago, I found rust on the part that's inside the solenoid when energized I cleaned this with some sand paper and sprayed WD40 on it. Its been working fine since then but Im going to order a spare one just in case. :thumbup:

Title: Re: 5036 Damper Sticking Open
Post by: slimjim on January 01, 2014, 06:31:00 AM

I like to use standard automatic transmission fluid on anything that is metal , needs to move in cold weather and is prone to rust, it's cheap, available and works better than anything I've found, a 10 % dilution of diesel fuel or home heating oil and it can be sprayed with an inexpensive spray bottle.

Title: Re: 5036 Damper Sticking Open
Post by: Wood Nutt on January 01, 2014, 10:42:54 AM

The WD in the name stands for water displacing and this formula was their 40th attempt at its development.  WD-40 was developed as a rust-prevention SOLVENT AND DEGREASER for use in the aerospace industry so its lubrication capabilities are limited.  I have been taught you can use WD-40 to clean up and dry out parts, but need to add lubricant of your choice afterwards.  Lubricant wise, anything with oil or grease tends to attract dust but stays in place longer.  A dry silicone lubricant won't attract dust and grime as much but needs to be reapplied periodically.

Title: Re: 5036 Damper Sticking Open
Post by: capitalpyro on January 02, 2014, 05:34:15 AM

Thanks for all of the replies. I took the old solenoid off and replaced it with a new one. The old one was quite gunked up. I will try cleaning it up with some brake cleaner and keeping it as a spare. I will also try the transmission fluid as a lubricant.

I am still open for suggestions and would like to hear of ways that others with the same problem have found a solution.

Thanks again.